1.6 8v

[capt1njohn]

when you see ceramic  , that means top quality high temp diode.
I think it is overkill and
it also means the diode is 100% hermetic, (passes steam test !) mil grade and all that.

Thanks for all your input. I do have a few questions about some abbreviations you were using as explaining what to look for first. You said fuses good, FI and IG coil under knee fuse box.  What does FI and IG stand for? The other abbreviation you used several times was FSM "the FSM way" What does FSM stand for? On the ignitor test shorting the gate to +12dvc through a  150 Ohm resistor, You said Pull ECU conn. Are you talking about the main ECU connector or the ignitor connector that goes back to the ECU? Also where is the MAIN Relay and does it look any different than any of the other ice cube relays that are being used?

So you think a regular black 3amp diode would do the trick for the D113 Ceramic Bead diode? I found a regular black Diode that is a 10 amp 600v and the pins are .010 smaller than the one that's in the board now so it will fit the board. Think that will work? The only reason I was hesitant to replace it with that kind , was the fact that the other one was ceramic and I figured it must get real hot. I've had this tracker for 22 years now and for the last 13 years its been a farm vehicle. So up until the last 3 years I have run it enough to warm it up about twice a year. I think ive gone through 10 gal of gas in it in the last 10 years. Its always started right up every time. It ran out of gas 3 years ago and I pushed it to where it sits right now. I new it was out of gas. I figured if I put 5 gals of gas in it the girl would start bright back up. None of the caps looked bad in the ECU. The only bad thing I saw in it was the D113 Diode had corrosion (like from a battery) on both sides of the body where the wires come out of. When I got it out of the board I tested it and it checks out good but I cant very well stick the leg back on it. Thanks again for all your help. Ive