1.6 8v

[fixkick]

Hi guys new member and cant figure out how to start new Thread. I have a 1994 Tracker Hardtop 4wc 1.6L 8V. Its been sitting for 3 years. Put gas in it the other day and a fresh battery. Tried to start it but it wouldn't start. Tried Starting Fluid but nothing. Checked spark and had none. Checked Distributer and pick up in distributer. Cap and rotor good Pickup looked good but dont know how to test. Checked coil resistance and it didn't match what the Haynes manual said. I also did the test with the 3 volts on the ignitor and it didn't check out either. One wire is hot going to the coil and one is hot going to the ignitor. Bought new Coil and ignitor and installed but still wont start. Took ECU out and caps look good but ceramic Ball or bead Diode had pretty bad corrosion at the body of the diode on each side. Tried to take it out of the circuit to test but one leg broke off. I cant seem to be able to figure out what that diode is as there is no numbers on it and there is very little information about ceramic ball or bead Diodes on the internet. The diode has a brown stripe at one end and it has 3 green dots placed evenly around the circumference of the diode. Can anyone help me out with this?

in order this.
fuses good, FI and IG_coil under knee fuse box. (and dome fuse for ECU memory retention)
key on CEL lamp must  glow, and if not lamp is bad or ECU dead.
next if CEL glows, insert the DIagjumper at DLC connector next to battery, with jumper in place the CEL lamp flashes code 12 if happy or if not other codes
code 41 and 42 codes are lost spark.

that diode is  reverse polarity protection diode, I think.  a 5watt zener..is that sized.
if removed all power is lost I think , no schematics on any ECU exist for suzuki.
if a CAP leaks acid it eats things up,

that old diode may be marked then, as 5-6L2

that means 5.6volt zener. (that is a very rare and obscure Japanese part, from Mitsubishi. ) as in not sold now.
the Jedec substitute might be 1N5339 (5w)  or dash A or Dash B in order of increasing accuracy.  a very easy part to buy, JEDEC is  a mil  standard too.
https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Di...aoZ1z0z63x

The coil must spark if the ingitor is hot wired with a resistor per the FSM  ,. MUST or the igniter is bad or coil or wires related.
so do not  ever hot wire any ignitor with solid (or standed) copper wire or blow up the igniter you will. use the resistor. ok? at 12v,  3v is FSM way.
but suzuki did here, ( resistor way is safe 12vdc  with out use an AAA battery best or 3v coin cell,  I use  150 ohm resistor just to be safe at 12v . on the base pin.
https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slideshow...age_5.html
 
2 to 3vdc on the gate pin turns it on. i even scoped this pin running.
the internal resistor keeps coil from burning up, if ignitor is unplugged key on (oops) so is natural pull down there to be, 0vdc safe.

The ECU must get the CMP signal in the base of the Distrib. called a cam sensor or CMP
if the ecu fails to see that signal. DTC code 42 means CMP is dead. must crank for 5 seconds or 20 crank turns, per FSM.

if 42 is not SET, then 41 can hit,  41 means the igniter is dead. (same 5 second rule)  trust the ECu to tell you which end is dead.  CMP or Ignitor.
the coil signal (- stud) https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slideshow...ge_14.html




41 is coil +_ignitor wires and suppressor test,  and also means the Brown tachometer wire is dead for sure. code 41.
suppressor looks like this.

1. fuses good
   
2. Cel lamp not dead.
   
3. CEL flashes 12 on demand and after cranking for 5 full seconds, key released and not off
   
4. DTC codes?
   
5. test the ignitor per FSM.
   
6. the small device called , IG suppress must not fall off its socket or all spark ends. and code 41
   
7. CMP must be working that means all grounds wires to the distributor not bad or the CMP will be dead,
   

this is what I think is inside the ignitor, for sure a transistor yes.  this is how I test mine, using 150 ohm resistor but factory battery  way is good to 3v.
the 630 is deep inside the device. the dotted resistor is  may testing it on bench.


the wiring is like this.
91-95 8v see my red arrows, for in or out