1997 vitara

[fixkick]

ill read and test the maf tomorrow, i bought some crc maf cleaner today and cleaned the maf as you said to. i reinstalled after drying and started the car still no change in engine. ill post my may readings tomorrow and see what you think. the efi pressure gauge will be this week. and again thanks for helping.

you are welcome
with your symptoms and parts changed out.
we can assume the engine is ok, so that reduces causes by a huge margin, for sure if vacuum gauge (yes one more tool) shows steady vacuum at 19"Hg. at hot idle.
leaving only
EFI and fuel pressures, correct.
EFI is sensors first if the CAPS in the ECU are not leaking boric acid that is,  we always look first there, (cracks /bulging or leaking green snot is no good) Electrolytic caps there are all" loves to  fail" this old they have design life spec, of 20years, some go 10y with black cased Rubicon mfg name, that suck IMO.

So we test sensors and  fuel pressure , and depends on what tools you have now, IDK that, can't know.
here in the 50States  we can get a $20 DmM, vac and compression gauge, and timing light, under $100 all , or about 1hour shop labor . so is FREE in my book see?

A DMM costs $20 here at walmart, and works on this system easy. any DMM  made will (meter)

The cars must be tested for working A thermostat,  if runs too cold , you will fail.  all EFI cars not just this car, the 82c or up must be there, working.
if the stat works the ECT reads 300 ohms hot = 82c  the ECT is only thermal NTC thermistor resistor, super super simple device, electric too no transitors there.
82c is normal
as is 300ohms or less a tad. normal at ETC.\\\  no ecu/efi LIKES A BAD THERMOSTAT AND IF LOW , SUCKS FUEL LIKE MAD.
LEARN THIS TOO, Some STAT'S are sold as FAILSAFE, and go 100% open as/ with failed, I call the Arctic freeze mode, EFI goes MAD.
this is why we test coolant temps first, yes one more meter for $15 called a IR heat gun. (is your themostat missing the rubber ring?)
OBD1 does not test for  weak sensors only dead, so only we can find problems MANUALLY. Humans only cures and tests, here, legacy cars same as old toyotas from 1988 too. 4A engines, same, deal.(until 1996 USA laws changed it.)

then MAF voltage at keyon, idle and gunned to 3v. (try for 2 seconds that) this last gunned is to be sure it is fully alive. seen many cloned junk MAF fail.
the TPS is also tested easy super simple electric device no transistors. at all there. just a carbon resistor there.
All maf tests are backprobed tests, no connector pulls . needles probes, even DIY needles using leather sewing needles to do the job fast.
all autoshops have needle probes or go broke fast. we can make our own. I have web page showing how.

1 to 4 vdc out, key on no start, move throttle from non to max  see 1v rise in a linear fashion to 4v. it is not precision but must be linear. and for sure no dropouts.
TPS is super crude sensor, and super easy to test. with any DMM,  set to read volts. key on no start, TP pin is output pin so named in the book.
top best is needle probes again.
connect black meter test lead to ground battery neg or engine block ground.
then red test probe to TP pin, back probed, this is ohms test, I do voltage tests only for rubber meets the road reasons (If you get my drift)
I backprobe sensors with meter black lead on ground not  on pin1, so I see the TRUTH. only.
then 
TP pin or as we call it in 2020 , throttle angle pin2.
we can see it stuck at 5v, if stuck there ground wire is cut to pin or  TPS is dead. (nah not you it has now DTC errors)

then see 1volt DC. and advance the throttle by hand and see 4vdc. about that. it is not precision device, 
but must advance in direct proportions to hand on throttle, if does it is good.
those are my ideas 10/4.