09-25-2020, 10:02 AM
The CEL does work and it does flash 12 when the port is jumped. I couldn't get it to work until you told me about the NAG switch. The light would just stay on until I flipped the switch then it flashed the 12 when I jumped the port. When I installed the repaired ECM I had forgotten to connect the distributor and it was flashing 42 so after I plugged it back in it flashed 12. So I am confident in the repair work. The 200° c was just what I saw on the oven it was put into and may not have been the temperature it was brought up to. I was able to watch him do the work but he gave me a brief explanation that seemed right but I'm no electronics expert. He also recoated the board with some type of coating where he had worked. In the end it looked new. The only difference was the new caps were a little smaller than the originals but the ratings were exactly the same. I was able to examine the Catalytic Converter today and it's melted. I'm sure that the ECM was bad for awhile and it was over fueling a lot. It was probably the reason my water pump popped the weep hole seal. That's the reason I started working on it in the first place. I got home one day and the coolant was pouring out of the weep hole on the water pump. I decided to go ahead and replace the water pump, timing belt, accessory belts and the crank timing pulley bolt. I wanted to inspect the crank nose and keyway so I got a new bolt. When I got everything reassembled it wouldn't start and would almost start with WOT. That's when I started diagnosing the issue starting with the compression. It was low but no different from a year ago when I thought it was great but now I know that's low and I will probably be refreshing the head cause my wet test didn't change my numbers very much. The main reason I knew it couldn't be the compression was the fact it ran before I worked on it and I found out the engine is non interference so even if the timing belt was off it wouldn't have damaged my valves. I rechecked the timing 4 different times and even pulled the timing cog to check the keyway again. I finally got a noid light set to check the injector signal and I found it to be very strange. When I finally decided to pull the ECM is when I found the information about the Rubycon capacitors and I realized mine still had them. This is what was causing my over fueling problem and it also caused my catalytic converter to melt and the exhaust manifold got so hot it melted the intake tube as well. I'm going to order a catalytic converter and intake hose but with the Catalytic Converter off I took a ride and it runs awesome and the over fueling has been resolved. I pulled the spark plugs after I drove it and they were coffee brown and not wet like before. If it wasn't for the information on this site and the information you provided me I don't think I would have been able to fix it. I would have never thought the ECM could be the problem.