1990 tracker -no start FI fuse?

[fixkick]

Thanks - been out fighting fires here - back now.
TPS looks good - tested as per FSM. I back probed the TPS connection and got 5v at gry/ red wire and just over .5v at grey wire - key on. 
I test resistance at the TPS side of the connector and it checks good per fsm.

I WAS  going to pull the ECU but can’t get the dang mount screw loose.  ECU is mounted with huge Phillip head screws. #3 head philps,  #2 is normal. USA>
big head screw it is. 6mm thread. ISO.


I’m confident this is a virgin ecu. (all mostly fail for bad caps.  age + heat not good here. for them.


While under there I noticed a brown wire connected to - what looks like the alarm wire - (yep it has an alarm)
you need to De Install any none factory alarms.  (cuts fuel or spark or both) just see where all alarm wires go, where they land and what color suzuki wires do they touch.




- I remember you saying something about alarm drama. (only pain if wired with wire nuts or worse twisted and tape. endless bad with non factor alarms.
most of these cars sold in USA had no alarm. at all.

Well now I’m going to trace that - and hopefully remove all that alarm nonsense. ( I’m 60 y/o and will not bother getting out of bed for a car alarm anyway!

I have no idea If the alarm also disables the fuel - seems a bit odd to me but.... (is this Aftermarket alarm? the wire colors give that away and stickers on side of alarm box too.  alarms work in many ways, in fact random by maker. (their big idea) even cutting dead only fuel pumps and more.

• kills starter
  
• kills fuel at pump
  
• kills spark at distrib.
  
• or worse, see wild wild ideas here,  many bad.  (my kids car had the Alternator killed, and then burned up all wires ther)
  

I hope this is it - too bad if it is,as the rig is too clean and well maintained otherwise.
Also what is this CMP you speak of - how to test it? I don’t see it in the fsm. Any tips?  yes, see end.
Thanks rjm

this is 1990 right,  on any 1990 step one is test spark.
all spark is created inside the distributor, only (and 1 external spark induction coil)

ECU does not make spark at all nor control timing of any spark. (cmp/ VR ignitor is inside the distrib and vaucuum advance and centrifugal advance weights etc.
spark must be tested,

step 1 is check for spark, make sure kids did not open hood and scramble spark wires arround
if spart test passes
try test fuel, in can , see  if engine runs now for 3 seconds,  must. if not spark or timing of cam or spark are wrong.
if cam belt slips, spark does with it. a double timing fail.  fix cam first. always.

I will re read all post , i forget them easy at 72yo  ,ok did.

test for spark first.  using a new spark plug gapped to 0.028" not 0.045 out box size done by robots.
ground the shell of the spark plug and see spark at tip of plug it must be strong.
if looks , ok , use test fuel next.

now to answer your other questions what else.
well key on CEL lamp must glow,
then with DLC connector jumper-ed, for Diagnostic test, jumper it and key on, see code 12 means good .
then crank for 5 full seconds, release key do not turn off the key
got code 41 or 42 that is bad spark primary side,  tells you this , DTC errors this. 

does the tachometer (in the cluster ) move a tiny bet (crank rpm is 200-300rpm) so will move a bit, some do not. depends no battery strength,etc.
5,6,7 all inside the dizzy

diagram