the stock temp gauge is a 1 wire sensor (thermistor) now the horror of that, (location location location wrong)
horror 1: the water level drops.
H2: then the sensor touches AIR and guess what it CAN NOT measure air temps at all and for sure not touching coolant at all ,just steam now (horror 3)
never trust that gauge. and the hot engine ping is first clue as is steam.
best is get real gauge, on that car. for sure old cars. I think the lower rad hose is best there with inline hose coupling for sensor mount. (summit racing.com)
that is the cool side but at least water is there full time and to the near end.
a case can be made (race cars do this) 2 gauges, one for top of rad tank and 1 for bottom then you have truth.
spark question when it will not crank,
1: disconnect coil packs ,cranks now/ spins fast now, then is spark timing way off,
check spark timing, check that rear of CAMshaft CMP cam angle sensor is not loose, make sure chain did not slip, wrecking all timing. with low oil pressure the cam chain tensioners are off line, and now chain is very loose and if old and warn can jump. off time.
2: jumper cable start it. (2 batteries now) My engine uses 100amps to crank yours be like 200max, the cheap battery does 500. so...
3: turn engine by hand see if it feels right.
my G16 do 50psi cold engine cranked (spark killed) oil pressure, make sure cams look ok. if this engine has that nasty VVT? variable valve timing thing on end of cam , it can fail.
engine is interference, pistions do hit valves, timed wrong, for sure. (new in crate engine does)
id be all over oil pressures. make sure its even ok no spark at all. just cranking.
may be cam tensioner blew up opening up the oil gallery and just that bad. (even cross fingers for simple cheap thing bad)
they have locks for starting zero RPM tensioner piston is locked inside and when oil pressure comes up , it unlocks, and is now dynamic tension. (so cranking will not sound HORRID chain slap)
see these pistons inside the tension'er. may be a total wreck leaking oil like mad.
engine out is best way to cam front cover off it.
the silly front cover is RTV sealed. and not easy to get a good seal up after it is pulled. (take extra care here)
(RTV= silicon caulk, color coded,for engines) mine is orange, color. (oxy sensor safe etc)
keep an open mind do not blame main or rod bearings first. find the leak inside, all places possible. Rods/mains last.
hope to you , something simple wrong, cheers to you and good luck in your quest.
horror 1: the water level drops.
H2: then the sensor touches AIR and guess what it CAN NOT measure air temps at all and for sure not touching coolant at all ,just steam now (horror 3)
never trust that gauge. and the hot engine ping is first clue as is steam.
best is get real gauge, on that car. for sure old cars. I think the lower rad hose is best there with inline hose coupling for sensor mount. (summit racing.com)
that is the cool side but at least water is there full time and to the near end.
a case can be made (race cars do this) 2 gauges, one for top of rad tank and 1 for bottom then you have truth.
spark question when it will not crank,
1: disconnect coil packs ,cranks now/ spins fast now, then is spark timing way off,
check spark timing, check that rear of CAMshaft CMP cam angle sensor is not loose, make sure chain did not slip, wrecking all timing. with low oil pressure the cam chain tensioners are off line, and now chain is very loose and if old and warn can jump. off time.
2: jumper cable start it. (2 batteries now) My engine uses 100amps to crank yours be like 200max, the cheap battery does 500. so...
3: turn engine by hand see if it feels right.
my G16 do 50psi cold engine cranked (spark killed) oil pressure, make sure cams look ok. if this engine has that nasty VVT? variable valve timing thing on end of cam , it can fail.
engine is interference, pistions do hit valves, timed wrong, for sure. (new in crate engine does)
id be all over oil pressures. make sure its even ok no spark at all. just cranking.
may be cam tensioner blew up opening up the oil gallery and just that bad. (even cross fingers for simple cheap thing bad)
they have locks for starting zero RPM tensioner piston is locked inside and when oil pressure comes up , it unlocks, and is now dynamic tension. (so cranking will not sound HORRID chain slap)
see these pistons inside the tension'er. may be a total wreck leaking oil like mad.
engine out is best way to cam front cover off it.
the silly front cover is RTV sealed. and not easy to get a good seal up after it is pulled. (take extra care here)
(RTV= silicon caulk, color coded,for engines) mine is orange, color. (oxy sensor safe etc)
keep an open mind do not blame main or rod bearings first. find the leak inside, all places possible. Rods/mains last.
hope to you , something simple wrong, cheers to you and good luck in your quest.
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