09-10-2020, 07:25 PM
Update!
Won't be able to test very soon since the J18 spun rod or main bearing, don't really know yet.
A little background. I fitted an LPG Injection system to it, since on the old engine it had just a basic mixer system like a gas stove. The new system has an ECU, seperate injectors for LPG and it needs tuning of course. So we went out on a drive so I could tune the LPG software. At one point I flipped it over to Petrol and after a little bit it started pinging like mad, as if you dropped a box of nuts inside the engine. Switched it over to LPG and it stopped (because of the much higher octane), that's when I noticed that the Reducer's temperature is around 50deg, should be 85 as the engine. That's what tipped me off and we decided to stop, lift the hood, and sure enough one of the rad hoses had popped out and leaked pretty much all of the coolant out. Throughout the whole thing, the temp needle on the dash didn't move from the center. We drained the oil and it had tiny flakes of metal inside it. We waited till the next morning to pour some water into the engine, put some new oil in it and started just fine. After it warmed up, the oil press light started blinking on idle, so we knew it's one or more bearings. We're pulling the engine out to fix it and should be able to test the ECU tack pulses within about a week I hope!
One odd thing I noticed, whenever the engine is warmed up, and we try to start it, it just doesn't want to turn. It starts turning and as soon as it gets to the first power stroke it hangs for a little bit, then the next, like the battery is flat, but it's fine. So I'm thinking the ECU is advancing the ignition way too much to the point where the peak pressure occurs before TDC so it's trying to spin the engine backwards. I have no clue why it's doing that though...
Won't be able to test very soon since the J18 spun rod or main bearing, don't really know yet.
A little background. I fitted an LPG Injection system to it, since on the old engine it had just a basic mixer system like a gas stove. The new system has an ECU, seperate injectors for LPG and it needs tuning of course. So we went out on a drive so I could tune the LPG software. At one point I flipped it over to Petrol and after a little bit it started pinging like mad, as if you dropped a box of nuts inside the engine. Switched it over to LPG and it stopped (because of the much higher octane), that's when I noticed that the Reducer's temperature is around 50deg, should be 85 as the engine. That's what tipped me off and we decided to stop, lift the hood, and sure enough one of the rad hoses had popped out and leaked pretty much all of the coolant out. Throughout the whole thing, the temp needle on the dash didn't move from the center. We drained the oil and it had tiny flakes of metal inside it. We waited till the next morning to pour some water into the engine, put some new oil in it and started just fine. After it warmed up, the oil press light started blinking on idle, so we knew it's one or more bearings. We're pulling the engine out to fix it and should be able to test the ECU tack pulses within about a week I hope!
One odd thing I noticed, whenever the engine is warmed up, and we try to start it, it just doesn't want to turn. It starts turning and as soon as it gets to the first power stroke it hangs for a little bit, then the next, like the battery is flat, but it's fine. So I'm thinking the ECU is advancing the ignition way too much to the point where the peak pressure occurs before TDC so it's trying to spin the engine backwards. I have no clue why it's doing that though...