08-24-2020, 01:02 AM
(08-21-2020, 08:38 AM)d8nk Wrote:(08-20-2020, 10:13 PM)d8nk Wrote: Great condensed answer and I am confident I am at the end where I need to replace positive (red) driver transistors. That one does not test out properly with a DMM either. I did order two in case I fix it and it fries again. Something had to of caused it. So first thing make sure it works, second go enjoy my top and doors off in the last bit of summer!!
I'll update once parts arrive and I have time to dive in again. Thanks a ton your time!!
Ok I missed a bunch of what you wrote on page two, all I can say is WOW. You are so far above my head on this I can't even understand most of what you wrote. I am no electrical engineer so I appreciate the summary. I never tried shorting (killing) the injector and doubt anyone before had either I have owned it for about 5 years and it has always run perfect. It is unfortunate that these Samurai ECUs are impossible to find. I hope I can fix mine.
I am curious what killed it in the first place. My suspicion would be a short in the injector, just a gut feeling as I have testing continuity on most the wires and checked against ground looking for shorts. Nothing found. Like I said before I will update when I get parts. Thanks again for all you effort and leaving this bomb of knowledge for someone to find down the road!
- sure the injector shorted is bad deal.
- wires to it shorted end to end.
- alternator went mad (reg) and sent out 20vdc or more blowing up or causing injury to transistors. seen this vast times. even blowing up car radio.
- Transistor over heated or heat sink fails , screw loose there or TIM compound failure there. thermal grease died out after 30 years.~~~
- bad luck (entropy) aka, OLD AGE failures, no parts here last forever.
that be an easy fix.
I always had spare ECUs from mine, some are impossible to find now, and driving far from home and that fails , no cure.
http://www.fixkick.com