Power steering

[fixkick]

UPDATE  08/16/2020
Thanks for bearing with me, it's been a long road to get here.

I did find a slightly binding left front strut and a leaking left rear shock to I bought a set of struts & shocks.
The left outer CV boot was torn and I bought a new set of boots.
Upon disassembly I discovered the left front wheel bearing was rough and required replacement.
I installed new left wheel bearings & race, rebuilt the left half shaft with new boots, inspected and repacked the right wheel bearings.

I completed assembly today and started the engine. Rotated the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground and all was smooth. Placed the wheels on the ground and still have the balking - hesitation in the steering. I noticed the engine speed did not seem to increase with the added fluid pressure of turning the steering wheel, but instead decreased. I held the rpm around 1100 and turned the steering wheel and it turned smoothly without balking or hesitation.

I have no issue with the parts or work to service the wheel bearings and struts, it needed to be done. 

I suspected the steering pump pressure switch to be faulty.
The wire to the pump switch has 12.5 VDC, engine running.
The switch on the pump is open (has infinite resistance) to ground at idle and 3 ohms when the wheel is turned, the switch appears to function.
The engine idle speed is 775 RPM.  (hot idle spec is steady no up and down surging and is 750 to 850 RPM hot coolant. so 755 is in slec.

With the steering pressure switch wire grounded the RPM increases to 825.  (1000 is 1991 up, is this car all 1991 and up, still me confused what car this is)
Higher, but still not enough RPM to raise the pump pressure enough to provide smooth steering.
bad pump or bad box.
RPM spec for the auto trans is 800 and not adjustable.   (the ECU controls idle all the time hot, )  nobody else.  on 1991+ car rpm is 1000 for AC on or PS overload. older cars have more  fast idle inputs.

At this point I am suspecting low power steering pressure, possibly caused by mileage (230K), worn valving, worn pump veins, worn pump valve spring tension. The pump makes no noise running or under pressure. (i think the pump is the cheaper fix.  and less work by far) assuming belt does not slip.

The power steering fluid does smell a bit burned and is dark. In a 1/2" diameter plastic syringe held up to the sun, the fluid is deep red.
I guess I should try a power steering fluid change. Spec is Dextron III. (III up, III is obsolete and all higher numbers are infact backwards compatible)
no lie scalpers sell III Dextron $30+ qte, for those that do not ask the maker of Dextron,.. no need for DEX III ever,
I somehow don't think it will make a difference. not me either, im pulling for bad pump.

that switch is overload, it only closed when you turn steering wheel, full max L/R and then try to more that possible this overloads the pump and  1000 RPM kicks in now, at switch closure.

825 rpm hot is wrong,.tells me ISC is messing up.
at hot idle turn on Blower, then headlamps at same time, rpm may drop a tad then bounce back to 800,  and regulate with those loads steady. hot engine.