Oh thanks so so much information I have had to read this a few times with the Jargon page as a support.
One thing I did not find is the PCV in your last post, what does that stand for? Positive crankcase ventilation valve. (seen on right side of valve cover)
Right means driver seated RIGHT, an industry standard.
From the image link (8valve engine parts) on the last post of yours I can point out what I mine is missing/broken. (those are VSV vacuum solenoid valves)
VSV has filter knob but is just filter for air, sucking in dirt is bad, so has a filter.
VSV has nipples, not to be missing or cracked. One can call the filter a knob "C" here. but is a filter.
You see those 2 knobs with hoses and electric connections there near the timing belt cover.
Mine has broken knob (which surely leaks) for the red one. Could that be a reason someone has tampered with the ISC settings etc?
anyone can put photos on HERE>?(just an example of mine)
In the USA the engine has (smog laws) 3 VSV, 1 is EGR, 1 is EVAP and one is Dashpot (coldstart fast idle) all 3 must not leak air, parked and idling,.
all 3 are OFF parked. idling and do not flow air so idle speed is not wrong parked.
Anyhow It will be 1,5 weeks before I will start going trough the vacuum hoses and hope that it will fix the idle from 1200 -> 800 as it was upto this spring. I hope the hoses etc is enough to get the idle back.
keep in mind a bad power steering overload switch at the PS pump will cause 1000 RPM fast idle mode in the ECU, as will AC lamp glowing in dash blue LED. (near blower lever)
I am bit concerned about opening the TB and setting everything to factory default until i understand what that broken knob (use photos please) is supposed to do. IF ia have broken and/or missing devices and the TB / EFI is juryrigged it might be that I wont get the car running anymore
all things here can be fixed, all.
Someone definitely has played around with. After reading your posts I can say this much:
- DP is tampered and cold idle is around 3200 RPM, DP definitely works otherwise ok.
- NO free play at throttle cable at all.
- above mentioned knob broken off.
- as you said ISC is wrongly set as it fights my foot.
And even with all that hacking fuel consumption and emissions are pretty good for 30y old car with 155 000 miles on the meter.
Anyhow after your comments about this it will be a few weeks before I might ask more. I will return home 9 days from now.. then I will start replacing hoses, fixing some paint scratches I caused etc.
One thing I did not find is the PCV in your last post, what does that stand for? Positive crankcase ventilation valve. (seen on right side of valve cover)
Right means driver seated RIGHT, an industry standard.
From the image link (8valve engine parts) on the last post of yours I can point out what I mine is missing/broken. (those are VSV vacuum solenoid valves)
VSV has filter knob but is just filter for air, sucking in dirt is bad, so has a filter.
VSV has nipples, not to be missing or cracked. One can call the filter a knob "C" here. but is a filter.
You see those 2 knobs with hoses and electric connections there near the timing belt cover.
Mine has broken knob (which surely leaks) for the red one. Could that be a reason someone has tampered with the ISC settings etc?
anyone can put photos on HERE>?(just an example of mine)
In the USA the engine has (smog laws) 3 VSV, 1 is EGR, 1 is EVAP and one is Dashpot (coldstart fast idle) all 3 must not leak air, parked and idling,.
all 3 are OFF parked. idling and do not flow air so idle speed is not wrong parked.
Anyhow It will be 1,5 weeks before I will start going trough the vacuum hoses and hope that it will fix the idle from 1200 -> 800 as it was upto this spring. I hope the hoses etc is enough to get the idle back.
keep in mind a bad power steering overload switch at the PS pump will cause 1000 RPM fast idle mode in the ECU, as will AC lamp glowing in dash blue LED. (near blower lever)
I am bit concerned about opening the TB and setting everything to factory default until i understand what that broken knob (use photos please) is supposed to do. IF ia have broken and/or missing devices and the TB / EFI is juryrigged it might be that I wont get the car running anymore
all things here can be fixed, all.
Someone definitely has played around with. After reading your posts I can say this much:
- DP is tampered and cold idle is around 3200 RPM, DP definitely works otherwise ok.
- NO free play at throttle cable at all.
- above mentioned knob broken off.
- as you said ISC is wrongly set as it fights my foot.
And even with all that hacking fuel consumption and emissions are pretty good for 30y old car with 155 000 miles on the meter.
Anyhow after your comments about this it will be a few weeks before I might ask more. I will return home 9 days from now.. then I will start replacing hoses, fixing some paint scratches I caused etc.