Vitara 1991 brake booster replacement

[fixkick]

th ebooster only boosts, and when it dead. car has legit pure mechanical brakes but are harder to press the pedal only, they still have full stopping power (by design)

any air leak (aka vacuum leak) will cause too fast idle that is how all 8valve G16 EFI work, and large leak of air and vacuum brake boosters is huge leak.
the boosters on old cars like this can be hard to get.
did you ask at your local autostores first, some can, asking is base.
cracked booster diaprham...
the P/N for the booster I can tell you.
market 17 parts  shows that on body tag. = Sweden      LAK625K17  (for sure not santana)
suz# 51300-60a30    (or A20)  there are 3 cars made then, type 1,2,3 in Europe( in USA only 1  =LHD here.)
so parts must match that. 
as you may not know brakes and rules vary by country so, E17 Sweden is it.  I think is type 1.
that  K code means Type1.  but this part is sold for RHD or LHD right and drive.(or left)
a20 = RHD  (common in Europe  or UK)
A30 = LHD 

idle is 750  to 850 hot unless you turn on AC or other huge load accessories.  800 is normal. hot, no accessories or lighting on.
1000 is with AC on. (or other things on)varies by country this. my 91 had rear glass heater and this too 1000 rpm. ECU decides.

Hello. And thanks for the info.

Yeah I noticed that the EFI gets very confused when I press brake pedal and vacuum leaks. Engine strats vibrating and then idle goes 1400-1500. This is why I made the wooden plugs for the vacuum tube. I also could feel the leak from the actuator rod connection from pedal to booster. So the biggest leak was in the booster.

Idle went bit wonky before this trip (1200 rpm) and got back to it when plugging the vacuum. So there is some additional leak I need to fix after I get back. Plan is to change every rubber hose that connects to EFI as they are all 30 years old.

RHD countries in Europe left are only UK and Ireland. Rest of us drive LHD. So I guess my part number ends A30. So thanks for that.

hot too high idle,  causes, are many.  (vacuum leaks yes ) your is now defeated that one leak to booster huge hose is blocked.
besides hoses, bad an
themostat bad or missing and stuck wide open.  coolant way too cool.
is the CEL lamp (SES) glowing key one, then stays out , running,  if no out,  that is limphome mode and there are no idle controls in LIMP , is this is #1 simple check.
ISC dead (and is in LIMP) but if the valve is stuck open (CEL lamp off) then that too  is a cause.
IAC, in bast of TB (throttlebody) stuck open or the hot water hose is clogged to it.  IAC closes at 65C !  normal 82C is hot engine
all those vacuum hoses new,  the objects on the end of any hose can leak air and fail. (pinching hoses is good test to prove that) or vacuum hand pump and leak down tests work great too.

TV stuck open, if there is gun under the TV throttle valve butterfly plate,  that too causes too fast idle
as will any of the 3 throttle cables not with free play per FSM boot , TV cable is 10mm free play.(loose it is , and spec)


that is about it. for 1500rpm,  this is hard fail that. on hot engine. cold is normal, iAC runs 1500rpm cold.