not the AIT, (AIR INTAKE TEMP SENSOR) IT not even present on 92s. The 8v engine needs it bad, the 16v not much.
both temp sensors are easy to test. and read the same for same temp, the IAT is just a faster acting ECT.
but it could be a ECT reading too cold.
this means its not bad, it means it's MALadjusted. The ecu sees RPM go way high and the switch is still closed)
45:
Idle Switch Circuit , grounded all the time. Part of TPS sensor. (too low) or Maladjusted.
what it will , not cure, cold starts, if stuck closed because at idle its suppose to be closed. It will cause, off idle problems. even off idle low RPM surges. as it fights your right off off idle.
cold start sputtering.
1: Fuel pressure way too high.
2: bad need of a real tune up. the 60k mile tuneup.
3: ECT reads too low .
4: bad fuel.
5; leaking injectors.
usually the TPS is set wrong by a mechanic guessing.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...html#MYWAY
it's not easy to do , with throttle body on car, but can be done with the TB bracket removed.
this switch is very important.
it tells the ECU that:
1: start idle controls now. (or opposite)
2: if De-accelerating, to cut fuel and cut EGR .
3: it also activates the anti neck snap effect, at rapid De-acceleration.
the EcT is a pussy cat.
open hood, write down air temps right now.
release, lock on ECT connector and gently remove the conn.
then measure the 2 pins there, on the ECT
68F, 2500 ohms
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
if the engine coolant dont reach 180F , and hold, that to can burn a lot of wasted fuel and a crazy ECU , that is hopelessly lost.
ECT factory chart non to easy to see,or get data from.
[img] http://www.fixkick.com/wts-curve.GIF[/img]
both temp sensors are easy to test. and read the same for same temp, the IAT is just a faster acting ECT.
but it could be a ECT reading too cold.
this means its not bad, it means it's MALadjusted. The ecu sees RPM go way high and the switch is still closed)
45:
Idle Switch Circuit , grounded all the time. Part of TPS sensor. (too low) or Maladjusted.
what it will , not cure, cold starts, if stuck closed because at idle its suppose to be closed. It will cause, off idle problems. even off idle low RPM surges. as it fights your right off off idle.
cold start sputtering.
1: Fuel pressure way too high.
2: bad need of a real tune up. the 60k mile tuneup.
3: ECT reads too low .
4: bad fuel.
5; leaking injectors.
usually the TPS is set wrong by a mechanic guessing.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...html#MYWAY
it's not easy to do , with throttle body on car, but can be done with the TB bracket removed.
this switch is very important.
it tells the ECU that:
1: start idle controls now. (or opposite)
2: if De-accelerating, to cut fuel and cut EGR .
3: it also activates the anti neck snap effect, at rapid De-acceleration.
the EcT is a pussy cat.
open hood, write down air temps right now.
release, lock on ECT connector and gently remove the conn.
then measure the 2 pins there, on the ECT
68F, 2500 ohms
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
if the engine coolant dont reach 180F , and hold, that to can burn a lot of wasted fuel and a crazy ECU , that is hopelessly lost.
ECT factory chart non to easy to see,or get data from.
[img] http://www.fixkick.com/wts-curve.GIF[/img]
http://www.fixkick.com