07-15-2020, 01:44 AM
Sorry for delay. I will email you my VIN very soon as the thermostat is definitely my issue. STAT is either stuck open or there is not one at all because i can grab the top radiator hose after a long drive.. It is not getting up to temperature
And like you said that's probably keeping it stuck in WARM UP mode and burning more gas but not as much as Limp home does. I mean every single symptom and every single detail adds up to this:
I think where the sensor is showing right above C in dash at most (meaning that it moves and is attempting to work).and it bottoms back out when i turn engine off (..i bought myself an eveready maxx DMM to check for 300ohms at 180degrees for the ECT first to be sure. Also going to check temperature on stat for 170* with the thermocoupler.) ..i think the sensors working fine and its just never getting to operating temperature OR its running slightly cold enough to cause problems in winter and im not getting a good reading cuz it's floating from having the wrong gasket in it perhaps. Or it coule be stuck open..i would not be surprised to pull it off and see no stat tbh. (The PO bypassed AC, bypassed Evaporstor canister, took out the oil pressure switch Just that i know so far. Some makes sense and is well done. Other stuff seems odd but car runs well..truly does..just could run better whixh is what im doing)
Everything points to the thermostat. Always showing cold..white in oil during winter..not seeming to get up to operating temp explains the rich condition too and everything.
So ill replace the thermostat..easy enough but im also going to run numbers for every single sensor and the ecu as well to ensure its operating correctly before i get back into this too deeply. I will report back when ive at least fixed my dash (CEL, OIL PRESSURE, COOLANT TEMPERATURE READING CORRECTLY) made some changes and progress as im still collecting tools and stuff.
Im PO-..so poor i cant afford the -OR ?
i wanted to bounce this off u as well but ANOTHER PROBLEM i ran into but think i know how to fix is my reverse lights arent working. Bulbs were bad but i replaced both..the fuse Is good cuz the turn signals work (FUSE box reads its 15A TURN/BACK) so now..where i have the automatic..i read where you and bex discussed it on Suzuki forums saying the manuals had a back up light switch on the transfer case But the automatics had it linked in with the PRNDL spindle and often times cleaning it can work? Ive also noticed a 2 second delay between putting it in reverse and it taking..and i know i have a mess of CV axle grease and a little oil seeped bsck there from valve cover running back down the bell housing on tranny which explains where it went but never hits ground. So cleabing thst may fix it).. i believe. So im checking/cleaning the PRNDL spindle (looking. For yellow wire from fuse box side and red wire out of the switch on right side of tranny..back to the tail lights) im going to disconnect and clean all of that and also check to make sure the linkage to the shifter is good as well as the ground at the left rear tail light as i have some rust back there.
Is everything i said there a pretty accurate Understanding of what to do to get both backup lights going? I found how its routed..battery + to fuse box to shifter to right side of tranny on spindle.. back to tail lights..grounded at left rear then back up side of car to negative to complete the circuit?)
I will get back to you with some numbers when i get. Off of work and get to use my new DMM!! Im writing down EVERY temp and voltage range or resistance and then going to check them all this Saturday... At least narrow down some things until i can flash codes and get shortcut that way.
Also i had trouble with the fuel filter cuz it is original indeed.. 27 year old fuel filter. I have the strongest fuel pump in existence!!! Im paying an hours labor to get s guy with insurance to pull that and replace it. I still have original suzuki bracket on it too..not replaceable so ideally he won't break it but i need a fuel filter BAD.. As im pretty sure that my struggling uphill and occasional sputter is caused by that..
Cat looks somewhat new upon inspection.. Muffler is new. Im still checking temp in and out to look for clogs. From what I understsnd tho..not warming up to operating temp properly can even affect this system as the ecu thinks its cold and then sends too much fuel..causing rich condition thus affecting the fuel in exhaust smell which is coming up thru the holes in floorboard thst ima fix soon.
But yea everything from dash temp.. to performance..to symptoms im having..to the info ive read..points to the thermostat. Either being wrong, not in there, or stuck open. So im gonna replace the thermostat in the fall when its not so hot.
Last thing i discovered is that im seeping oil out of my valve cover gasket. I was able to turn the screws by hand. So tightened it down ever so slightly as not to bend it..and replacing that soon as well
Plus ball joints betore inspection. Doing all of this other stuff at home makes me feel a lot better for not being able to get to my fuel filter and having to pay a man who basically has a lift to do it.
Good news is that i only need reverse lights, ball joints, and tires for inspection!!
Bad news is if I dont get a thermostat that allows me to get up to temp then im gonns probably ruin every component to my engine.
And like you said that's probably keeping it stuck in WARM UP mode and burning more gas but not as much as Limp home does. I mean every single symptom and every single detail adds up to this:
I think where the sensor is showing right above C in dash at most (meaning that it moves and is attempting to work).and it bottoms back out when i turn engine off (..i bought myself an eveready maxx DMM to check for 300ohms at 180degrees for the ECT first to be sure. Also going to check temperature on stat for 170* with the thermocoupler.) ..i think the sensors working fine and its just never getting to operating temperature OR its running slightly cold enough to cause problems in winter and im not getting a good reading cuz it's floating from having the wrong gasket in it perhaps. Or it coule be stuck open..i would not be surprised to pull it off and see no stat tbh. (The PO bypassed AC, bypassed Evaporstor canister, took out the oil pressure switch Just that i know so far. Some makes sense and is well done. Other stuff seems odd but car runs well..truly does..just could run better whixh is what im doing)
Everything points to the thermostat. Always showing cold..white in oil during winter..not seeming to get up to operating temp explains the rich condition too and everything.
So ill replace the thermostat..easy enough but im also going to run numbers for every single sensor and the ecu as well to ensure its operating correctly before i get back into this too deeply. I will report back when ive at least fixed my dash (CEL, OIL PRESSURE, COOLANT TEMPERATURE READING CORRECTLY) made some changes and progress as im still collecting tools and stuff.
Im PO-..so poor i cant afford the -OR ?
i wanted to bounce this off u as well but ANOTHER PROBLEM i ran into but think i know how to fix is my reverse lights arent working. Bulbs were bad but i replaced both..the fuse Is good cuz the turn signals work (FUSE box reads its 15A TURN/BACK) so now..where i have the automatic..i read where you and bex discussed it on Suzuki forums saying the manuals had a back up light switch on the transfer case But the automatics had it linked in with the PRNDL spindle and often times cleaning it can work? Ive also noticed a 2 second delay between putting it in reverse and it taking..and i know i have a mess of CV axle grease and a little oil seeped bsck there from valve cover running back down the bell housing on tranny which explains where it went but never hits ground. So cleabing thst may fix it).. i believe. So im checking/cleaning the PRNDL spindle (looking. For yellow wire from fuse box side and red wire out of the switch on right side of tranny..back to the tail lights) im going to disconnect and clean all of that and also check to make sure the linkage to the shifter is good as well as the ground at the left rear tail light as i have some rust back there.
Is everything i said there a pretty accurate Understanding of what to do to get both backup lights going? I found how its routed..battery + to fuse box to shifter to right side of tranny on spindle.. back to tail lights..grounded at left rear then back up side of car to negative to complete the circuit?)
I will get back to you with some numbers when i get. Off of work and get to use my new DMM!! Im writing down EVERY temp and voltage range or resistance and then going to check them all this Saturday... At least narrow down some things until i can flash codes and get shortcut that way.
Also i had trouble with the fuel filter cuz it is original indeed.. 27 year old fuel filter. I have the strongest fuel pump in existence!!! Im paying an hours labor to get s guy with insurance to pull that and replace it. I still have original suzuki bracket on it too..not replaceable so ideally he won't break it but i need a fuel filter BAD.. As im pretty sure that my struggling uphill and occasional sputter is caused by that..
Cat looks somewhat new upon inspection.. Muffler is new. Im still checking temp in and out to look for clogs. From what I understsnd tho..not warming up to operating temp properly can even affect this system as the ecu thinks its cold and then sends too much fuel..causing rich condition thus affecting the fuel in exhaust smell which is coming up thru the holes in floorboard thst ima fix soon.
But yea everything from dash temp.. to performance..to symptoms im having..to the info ive read..points to the thermostat. Either being wrong, not in there, or stuck open. So im gonna replace the thermostat in the fall when its not so hot.
Last thing i discovered is that im seeping oil out of my valve cover gasket. I was able to turn the screws by hand. So tightened it down ever so slightly as not to bend it..and replacing that soon as well
Plus ball joints betore inspection. Doing all of this other stuff at home makes me feel a lot better for not being able to get to my fuel filter and having to pay a man who basically has a lift to do it.
Good news is that i only need reverse lights, ball joints, and tires for inspection!!
Bad news is if I dont get a thermostat that allows me to get up to temp then im gonns probably ruin every component to my engine.