06-27-2020, 03:16 AM
yes there are 2 tanks 2door and 4door cars use not same gallong tanks.
there is no air leaks, on the tank it is closed evap rated system and on warming up day the tank goes to positive pressure. (at gas station hear cap of whoosh? that is good sound like gassing up at noon to 4pm hot day)
then at night cooling it wants to go to a vacuum only if the cap vacuum breaker is clogged or missing.(not there wrong cap)
if wrong cap the tank can self crush it self as you sleep , huge vacuum there. or be super hard to start car cold morning , until cap is unscrewed.
The tank can have the wrong sender too. (8v and 16v senders are not the same)
smell exh?, is a real rich mixture.
that mpg is never going to be easy to measure, (old cars) but the gas island pump tells you gallons you used, if tanks is filled up and not over filled.
no tank is overfilled it must have air on top for hot days full, fuel expands hot, and if tank is too full the the tank will leak fuel;
the the gauges are all lie at "E" it for sure tells you empty when not empty just like new cars do and even beeps 24+miles before NO FUEL (my jeep does)
if you have monster mudder tires, on car like 31" the odometer will not read correctly at all, in fact will read low, causing false LOW MPG (mileage lies)
big tires axle turns slower, vss clicks slower , odometer spins slower. (all lies)
your tank is 10.6 gallons (2door sized)
seen in the operators guide, need on? see post #1 links on main forum page, 1. operators guides.
so at 8 gallons burned station pump 1 next time, is 8 gallons 8 x 26 = 208 miles distance, if tires are stock. (and transfer case speedo gear set not wrong)
2.6 gallons left, 8 burned. (even wrong axles on car) all wrong things here wrong parts, cause axle speed errors and odometer errors.
The FUEL gauge lies to you on purpose, on all cars made for over 30 years and more. by design. and F/E gauge is non linear too, Full needle is late to move off full making many folks think it great great MPG, but is only fooling us.
My JK jeep is 4000 pound 2 door and this car you have is 2000 lbs. light as kite, in the world of cars, and is why it gets super 26mpg. even more at 55mph long run not city traffic,.
but all this is moot, all that ,the engine runs bad.
are the CAPS in the ECU leaking green slime( boric acid nasty) ? look for damage there.
upstream O2 (there is no down stream O2 until 1996) OBD2
it's just 02 sensor. and is nice ! cast iron 8v manifold, if O2 is too tight cold try hot engine with gloves. to get it out.
One tactic is use penetrating oil (spray on bottom 02 only) let sit over night see if it be budged. CCW is looser, righty tighty lefty loosey.
if the O2 is dead, as most are this old and ignored.
just unplug OS and that stink goes down, and better MPG, and do that until new O2 is bought.
a dead 02 is zero volts out , max rich.
unplugged,. it reads 0.45vdc and it lies to it self and uses way less fuel. on new cars it discovers this and logs errors max, not this car.
0 to 1vdc is the range, 1v force max lean fuel.
rotten eggs is a CAT burning up fuel inside (wasted fuel) only good new cat stinks , this old it is a dead cat. like most are this old. and stink free cat.
it no longer catalyses (3 ways) can not stink. (by stink I mean rotten eggs , not just unburned fuel smell)
The cat does not make engine run better but if melted cat is like smashing the header pipe flat.
the exhaust MANIFOLD, on 8v do not crack like all 16v do, nor that funky 16v 90deg pre cat header(collapse) that caused the suzuki recall back then (the day)
the 8v MAN does not crack easy unless someone forced the 02 out , like a gorilla would. (hey bob (fake name) get a bigger hammer)
the 8v header end has 3 studs and 3 nuts missing,? and gasket there gone or cracked up.
the cat has weled to header pipe is it cracked or rusted through?
here a one man EXHAUST LEAK test, car idling
i take some hose, any hose, even an old cut to 2foot long garden hose, put one end to ear, move other end, (gloves on) and find putt putt sounds on the whole exh path front to rear, front will be load barks , but rear noise softer. muffler action. if cracked. expect no sounds, in hose, or you have CRACKS.
the cracks will not make engine run bad unless air leaking cracks are very near 02.
now?
the engine is barfing out huge, CO toxic fumes now (misfiring and cracks) you then are breathing silent killer CO (carbon monoxide) if you get a head ache first. bingo. CO is there, and not to be ignored. (lots of boat owner die from this, as do BBQ , in confined spaces.
run for fresh air, do all testing on car this bad out doors not in a garage. lacking safety fans.
Ok
good luck to you getting that CEL lamp out , it is not easy, cluster inplace, some can be remove , but some are super hard to reach on the top row.
there is no air leaks, on the tank it is closed evap rated system and on warming up day the tank goes to positive pressure. (at gas station hear cap of whoosh? that is good sound like gassing up at noon to 4pm hot day)
then at night cooling it wants to go to a vacuum only if the cap vacuum breaker is clogged or missing.(not there wrong cap)
if wrong cap the tank can self crush it self as you sleep , huge vacuum there. or be super hard to start car cold morning , until cap is unscrewed.
The tank can have the wrong sender too. (8v and 16v senders are not the same)
smell exh?, is a real rich mixture.
that mpg is never going to be easy to measure, (old cars) but the gas island pump tells you gallons you used, if tanks is filled up and not over filled.
no tank is overfilled it must have air on top for hot days full, fuel expands hot, and if tank is too full the the tank will leak fuel;
the the gauges are all lie at "E" it for sure tells you empty when not empty just like new cars do and even beeps 24+miles before NO FUEL (my jeep does)
if you have monster mudder tires, on car like 31" the odometer will not read correctly at all, in fact will read low, causing false LOW MPG (mileage lies)
big tires axle turns slower, vss clicks slower , odometer spins slower. (all lies)
your tank is 10.6 gallons (2door sized)
seen in the operators guide, need on? see post #1 links on main forum page, 1. operators guides.
so at 8 gallons burned station pump 1 next time, is 8 gallons 8 x 26 = 208 miles distance, if tires are stock. (and transfer case speedo gear set not wrong)
2.6 gallons left, 8 burned. (even wrong axles on car) all wrong things here wrong parts, cause axle speed errors and odometer errors.
The FUEL gauge lies to you on purpose, on all cars made for over 30 years and more. by design. and F/E gauge is non linear too, Full needle is late to move off full making many folks think it great great MPG, but is only fooling us.
My JK jeep is 4000 pound 2 door and this car you have is 2000 lbs. light as kite, in the world of cars, and is why it gets super 26mpg. even more at 55mph long run not city traffic,.
but all this is moot, all that ,the engine runs bad.
are the CAPS in the ECU leaking green slime( boric acid nasty) ? look for damage there.
upstream O2 (there is no down stream O2 until 1996) OBD2
it's just 02 sensor. and is nice ! cast iron 8v manifold, if O2 is too tight cold try hot engine with gloves. to get it out.
One tactic is use penetrating oil (spray on bottom 02 only) let sit over night see if it be budged. CCW is looser, righty tighty lefty loosey.
if the O2 is dead, as most are this old and ignored.
just unplug OS and that stink goes down, and better MPG, and do that until new O2 is bought.
a dead 02 is zero volts out , max rich.
unplugged,. it reads 0.45vdc and it lies to it self and uses way less fuel. on new cars it discovers this and logs errors max, not this car.
0 to 1vdc is the range, 1v force max lean fuel.
rotten eggs is a CAT burning up fuel inside (wasted fuel) only good new cat stinks , this old it is a dead cat. like most are this old. and stink free cat.
it no longer catalyses (3 ways) can not stink. (by stink I mean rotten eggs , not just unburned fuel smell)
The cat does not make engine run better but if melted cat is like smashing the header pipe flat.
the exhaust MANIFOLD, on 8v do not crack like all 16v do, nor that funky 16v 90deg pre cat header(collapse) that caused the suzuki recall back then (the day)
the 8v MAN does not crack easy unless someone forced the 02 out , like a gorilla would. (hey bob (fake name) get a bigger hammer)
the 8v header end has 3 studs and 3 nuts missing,? and gasket there gone or cracked up.
the cat has weled to header pipe is it cracked or rusted through?
here a one man EXHAUST LEAK test, car idling
i take some hose, any hose, even an old cut to 2foot long garden hose, put one end to ear, move other end, (gloves on) and find putt putt sounds on the whole exh path front to rear, front will be load barks , but rear noise softer. muffler action. if cracked. expect no sounds, in hose, or you have CRACKS.
the cracks will not make engine run bad unless air leaking cracks are very near 02.
now?
the engine is barfing out huge, CO toxic fumes now (misfiring and cracks) you then are breathing silent killer CO (carbon monoxide) if you get a head ache first. bingo. CO is there, and not to be ignored. (lots of boat owner die from this, as do BBQ , in confined spaces.
run for fresh air, do all testing on car this bad out doors not in a garage. lacking safety fans.
Ok
good luck to you getting that CEL lamp out , it is not easy, cluster inplace, some can be remove , but some are super hard to reach on the top row.
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