the 2 tests I can not do are
1: does RPM rise when the bleed screw is opened more CCW.. Yes/no or too little.
2; and if it did, rise even go to 800rpm ?does the engine misfire NOW, ,heard or seen engine shake, is misfire,. yes/no.
one more, if you rap that side of the MAF sensor gently with end of screwdriver, blade in hands) does RPM go nuts , HOT IDLE test only.
that is bad MAF if yes
but the MAF test is so easy, with any voltmeter made on earth..
misfire must not happen on 800rpm hot engine, but 500 it sure can,and well 500 is wrong find wrong fix wrong. now.
misfire yes, hot engine.
there are other things, if i can force 800rpm by hand and vacuum is bounces that is a bad engine, cam timed wrong or spark, or intake valves sticking or vave lash set so very wrong.
all shops on earth use a vacuum gauge to make sure engine is not sick. all do bouncing vacuum is WRONG. (this is basic basics testing ,engine base line testing)
but you need to get RPM to 800 first, I use my hand do to that, easy or play with bleed screw now that it was set wrong.
as you can see testing finds problems, and then leads to more testing and where it leads is based on sound logic and EFI and engine tests and lots of tests really.
did you know pro shops have tools many shops never heard of..????
like compressing measured from starter current ( THE AMPS MEASURE TELLS PSI BACK PRESSURE) no need to pull spark plugs, using real classic compressing gauge.
and spark analyzers. even even with combustion peak pressure using spark plasma resistance?
and 5 gas tail pipe exhaust analyzers or at the 02 sensor bung, to see if engine runs rat nasty>? a pro shop even adds a test port near the 02 sensor, for testing 5 GAS... on the hard cases.
there are lots of shops that know this, find a real ASE certified shop, and watch them go directly to TRUE CAUSE AND NOT WASTE LABOR OR PARTS GETTING THERE..
the have a OBD2 scan too, that logs, I can drive for 1 hour and log all data from all sensors, full time., then come back and replay the logs see what is good, bad and ugly
many are clueless a $150 tool can do. (with a laptop , mine works super easy)
seeing things, omg 02 front is 100% dead, all the time, oops, that be prime failure #1
I use this tool, here is play back of just a few sensors, all or some , my choice.
see that bottom blue trace (virtual; O-scope it is) here. that is your car and mine, O2 front sensor working and swinging, if yours is dead that is a first ORDER FAILURE
as is 500 RPM parked, hot. see this plot below. this works LIVE with 2 persons, or I do it and play it back just like watching DVD player yah.
See that LIVE MAF data , toP
![[Image: 96M-log2w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/palmer/96M-log2w.jpg)
the pro knows this old car will have 2 more problems ,all that is NORMAL after 2 decades on the road , expect that and win, he will..
1: does RPM rise when the bleed screw is opened more CCW.. Yes/no or too little.
2; and if it did, rise even go to 800rpm ?does the engine misfire NOW, ,heard or seen engine shake, is misfire,. yes/no.
one more, if you rap that side of the MAF sensor gently with end of screwdriver, blade in hands) does RPM go nuts , HOT IDLE test only.
that is bad MAF if yes
but the MAF test is so easy, with any voltmeter made on earth..
misfire must not happen on 800rpm hot engine, but 500 it sure can,and well 500 is wrong find wrong fix wrong. now.
misfire yes, hot engine.
there are other things, if i can force 800rpm by hand and vacuum is bounces that is a bad engine, cam timed wrong or spark, or intake valves sticking or vave lash set so very wrong.
all shops on earth use a vacuum gauge to make sure engine is not sick. all do bouncing vacuum is WRONG. (this is basic basics testing ,engine base line testing)
but you need to get RPM to 800 first, I use my hand do to that, easy or play with bleed screw now that it was set wrong.
as you can see testing finds problems, and then leads to more testing and where it leads is based on sound logic and EFI and engine tests and lots of tests really.
did you know pro shops have tools many shops never heard of..????
like compressing measured from starter current ( THE AMPS MEASURE TELLS PSI BACK PRESSURE) no need to pull spark plugs, using real classic compressing gauge.
and spark analyzers. even even with combustion peak pressure using spark plasma resistance?
and 5 gas tail pipe exhaust analyzers or at the 02 sensor bung, to see if engine runs rat nasty>? a pro shop even adds a test port near the 02 sensor, for testing 5 GAS... on the hard cases.
there are lots of shops that know this, find a real ASE certified shop, and watch them go directly to TRUE CAUSE AND NOT WASTE LABOR OR PARTS GETTING THERE..
the have a OBD2 scan too, that logs, I can drive for 1 hour and log all data from all sensors, full time., then come back and replay the logs see what is good, bad and ugly
many are clueless a $150 tool can do. (with a laptop , mine works super easy)
seeing things, omg 02 front is 100% dead, all the time, oops, that be prime failure #1
I use this tool, here is play back of just a few sensors, all or some , my choice.
see that bottom blue trace (virtual; O-scope it is) here. that is your car and mine, O2 front sensor working and swinging, if yours is dead that is a first ORDER FAILURE
as is 500 RPM parked, hot. see this plot below. this works LIVE with 2 persons, or I do it and play it back just like watching DVD player yah.
See that LIVE MAF data , toP
the pro knows this old car will have 2 more problems ,all that is NORMAL after 2 decades on the road , expect that and win, he will..
http://www.fixkick.com