03-15-2020, 03:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-15-2020, 03:56 PM by 3Waggintails.)
Thank you so much for your response. I appreciate all of your experience and information but it is so overwhelming for me. You take a lot of time in doing what you do and it is a great service that you provide to the community. Because of your knowledge, I want to get the best clearest easiest for me to understand response. I can only tell you at best what is....try to describe what is happening has happened and in what order things happened.
I just want to make a few things clear for the record. They probably won't make much difference but I want the record to be straight for the person reading this thread so more confusion is not added to a terrible situiation. Maybe someone , especially inexperienced male or female, can learn from this too.
I am not one of these guys that knows and understands all of this stuff about cars. I am an older woman who knows something about cars and can do some simple things like oil chnages, changing hoses, etc. I do not have the tools and equipment nor the knowledge to do more involved work or I would. Sadly, I have to rely on others who are supposed to know or advertise that they know and represent themselves as experienced mechanics. I am at the mercy of these people.
I am not ignorant and I try to research and learn and understand and know enough to ask questions or challenge something but don't have enough knowledge to know what is wrong and tell them what to fix. I can only tell them the symptoms and hope that they understand and can replicate and know what the hell they are doing and find it and fix it.
I agree. Many or most of these are not a Sidekick issue only. Its basic and can occur with most vehicles. So I dont understand why they cant find it or fix it. I am not told what they have done and the results unless I literally go get in their face and ask point blank. Phone call gets me NOTHING.
For many these cars are toys or a hobby. I have probably owned 15 Sidekicks and Trackers from an 89 to a 98 and have never had this issue with any of them. I love these cars and feel comfortable with them. This car in particular is basically my sole vehicle, my daily driver. I am on a fixed income and have spent over $5000 recently on this car - mostly in labor for things that needed to be done as I outlined in the previous information. I need and want my car fixed. I am pretty desperate here!
1. I bought this car from an older couple's estate with 60K on the ODO. They bought it new. I have the original sales paperwork and that is about it. I got it in 2015.
I sincerely doubt there was or has been any engine swap etc. How in heck it has a throttle body for a 92-95 model I don't know. I suspect it came that way from manufacturer. You say parts were often used on later cars so..???
This car is/was bone stock - no mods when I got it that I could see. But I am not an expert. That car was like new and ran like new until I messed up and messed with stuff I should have continued to ignore.
Since i have had the car it has NEVER had any issues with idling, running, starting, shifting, nothing. It handled like new. yes, the Service ENGINE LIGHT APPEARED INTERMITTENTLY AT FIRST BUT NEVER ANY HESITATION, MISFIRES, ETC. THEREFORE, I ignored it all this time with no issues. I OPENED a can of worms I should have left alone because I wanted to do the right thing and keep the car running and good as long as possible.
Since I got a little $$$ and was fixing things, I thought I would finally see why the CEL (SERVICE ENGINE SOON - it says) was on. Should have ignored!!!!
Now unless that O2 sensor being placed further down in the down pipe because the old one was stuck in manifold took a while to cause issues, i HAVE NOTHING ELSE TO BLAME FOR THIS STUFF STARTING. THE new EGR, switch and modulator were installed AFTER this O2 sensor was placed in the down pipe.
AND....
It was not UNTIL I had my REGULAR MECHANIC SHOP swap the EGR, MODULATOR and EGR SWITCH that the Hiccup at IDLE started and I happened to notice that RPMS at idle looked to be about 500 RPM. Even still the car idled correctly at start up and gradulaly idled down as it should when reached operating temp. Never a stutter, hiccup or misfire until I switched that EGR, MOD and switch after the O2 sensors replaced.
The gross hesitation/misfiring whatever it is called started/ only occurred INITIALLY with water in gas and cleared up for a week after that was fixed. The only symptom of anything wrong thereafter was the 500 RPM idle w/hiccup (misfire) that had began after the O2 put in downpipe and EGR, switch and MOD replaced with "new" parts. After that week, the hesitatiion (misfire) returned but still corrected with little more pressure on accelerator (WOT you call it?)
I made things worse by messing with the black plastic screw on top of the throttle body to try and adjust idle myself. I did not have to take a cover or plug off to get to this screw. It is black plastic on top of throttle body with phillips flat appearenace. I couldnt get the idle back right or when it appeared I did, it would still end up dropping to the 500 rpm at stops, etc. after driving a few miles. (I told shop I did this too).
Actually, once at operating temp, when I would stop at light or stop sign it would be 1000 maybe 800 -900 then eventually drop to 500 range but NEVER died, etc. The RPMS when driving seemed right in each gear, before shifting etc. (possibly a little high but not sure)
You say misfire -. Whatever it was, it is the only thing that was going on after those O2 and EGR, switch and Mod things were replaced. Even though they said my original parts were good, I still had PO400 code and bought the parts off ebay and had them replace. MY fault for fixing what was not broken. THe car was running and idling fine - to specs before that.
Before all this no problems! 5 years driving with CEL on.
After the water in gas tank issue, MY REGULAR MECHANIC SHOP was slammed (too busy to help me fix fast/soon) so I had to find another shop who would even attempt to fix or work on older cars. It is not my regular shop.
1. I said earlier in this post (I guess you missed or misunderstood) I bought a USED (not new) throttle body off ebay just to have because they are hard to find. It was off a 1998 tracker, 1.6 2wd, 2door. It should have been right for my car. It is not new. I paid $60 for it. I cleaned thoroughly etc. It also came with TPS attached. So I just happened to have it. I never saw my TB off the car or my TPS so I had no way of knowing that the car I have been driving for almost 5 YEARS with no problems had a throttle body off a 92-95 Sidekick. I just know it ran fine all these years with no problems.
You asked or thought I said mechanic replaced the TB and used wrong year....not case. Did not say that.
When we could not find the right TPS anywhere is because I never saw mine and the shop did not know my car had an older throttle body on it. They thought it was for the 97 vehicle that I have. Once I went over and saw the TPS, I thought the USED throttle body I got was wrong. It was really the right one that actually should have been on my 1997 car. Who would have known?
Confusion aside, because we could not find the part (TPS for the TB on my car) because you could see no number and we were ordering for 1997 sidekick, we kept getting wrong part. Once you said it sounded like mine was off a 95 or older and suspected older throttle body that kind of answered the question.
The shop thought just try and swap my throttle body and TPS and install the one I bought USED off ebay and the corresponding TPS to that throttle body as described above. Like I said, they called and told me running good but needed more drive time. With more drive time, all symptoms back. What symptoms back you asked?
As far as symptoms back, they said SUPPOSEDLY did not notice hiccup (misfire) sitting at idle at operating temp, did not state idle RPMS (if correct or low) only said hesitation or bogging WOT. (Guy claimed he now knew when gonna do it and thats why thought symptoms of TPS).
I would hope they know to set/ calibrate and how to set the TPS....OMG!!!
I understand what you are saying about appropriate testing. The shop should know and understand all of this. It sounds lijke guess work and just throwing stuff at problem rather than diagnosing and fixing. I am no mechanic. I cannot prove. I understand the methodical approach of checking things in a particular order based on symptoms and elimanting based on performance/ results. I expect that they should know even better.
In honesty, I dont think they found any leaks at intake, I was having NO problems or issues with the sensors they did replace. They had some green corrosion on them but were functioning as they should. In fact I was going to order them and have them replaced next time at my REGULAR mechanics in order to be proactive. They were not tested by this shop. They were not failing... just saw corrosion and bingo. They had no data /codes to say bad and I had no symptoms related. It was guessing and throwing parts at problem because I still was not told what tests done to determine malfunction/issues.
This shop has told me of no testing done at anytime. I have had to ask questions - like pulling damn teeth. But they have my car and I have paid them $1025 and want them to make right as much as possible. It was not fixed when paid for so they need to fix if I can get them to without more $$$$ paid. Otherwise, I would take my car back to my regular shop but I will pay more $$$$$ that I dont have to try and get fixed. I am over a barrel right now.
If I tick them off, they will probably tell me to come get my car and go to hell. I need to try and be diplomatic when I am trying to tell them they dont know thier butt from a hole in the ground and that I think they are ripping me off! Try and get them to fix as best possible and get back to regular shop if necessary after that. But I wnat my $1025 worth out of this place.
Just let me say that in my tiny mind, I am thinking that I should have left things alone. I am thinking:
A) Put back my old egr, switch and modulator. ***BTW the modulator not off a TOYOTA, it was purchased off ebay. Guy in Colorado has collected quite a few and sells on ebay - USED. I know I replaced a used with a used...his probably no better than mine so I have an extra you can say.
The egr switch is remanufatured switch off ebay and the egr is refurbished from Hwy 83 suzuki in Wisconsin - salvage place that sells on ebay - meaning it was cleaned up and tested, etc. I am poor and even poorer after all this!
B) KILL THE UPSTREAM O2 IN THE DOWN PIPE. THE ORIGINAL IN THE MANIFOLD THAT THEY COULD NOT GET OUT WAS DEAD ANYWAY. IF i HAVE TO, BECAUSE OF THE BUNG HOLE THEY MADE AND PUT THE O2 SENSOR IN BECAUSE ORIGINAL STUCK IN THE MANIFOLD, REPLACE THE DOWN PIPE AND JUST DO WITHOUT THE O2. IT WAS NOT WORKING ANYWAY. MAYBE CUT THE CAT OUT TOO. I did that on my 1998 tracker because I didn't have $$$$ for new cat so my ex-husband and I cut out and straight piped from down pipe to muffler. NEVER a CEL. Never a misfire, never a problem.
C) Definitely have them put back throttle body/TPS originally on my car (not one on there now they just put on that I bought off EBay)
This maybe wrong thing to do but at least if I go back to square one - where things were before the "misfire" at idle, some confusion can be eliminated.
OR scenario 2:
1. Have this mechanic shop put my original Throttle body and TPS back on the car. They did not test just thought symptoms seemed like TPS symptoms - I asked.
2. Put old EGR, switch and MOD back on AND
Insist that they check the timing, do vacum test, do fuel pressure test, etc? Should I get them to do back pressure test/ I asked iniatially 2 times and never done. I am concerned about cat , etc as well. Could be any issue here?
No compression test done that I know of.
Have them smoke test? What would they be looking for or seeing here since other shop did and found nothing before? Just trying to understand.
3. What can I do about that O2 in down pipe? Disconnect? Are you saying it may be leaking around it or its not reading right because relocated? If so, I can only see replacing downpipe to elimante hole the O2 sensor now in.
I cannot speak for any crack in the exhaust manifold. If there is one I am not aware and I had no issues/ problems etc before this fiasco with EGR stuff and O2 sensors. I dont doubt you. I only know what I know.
I HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH MISFIRE< IDLE< NOTHING....Ran great, idled great, etc until I stupidly decided to scan car becausse of CEL on 4 years with NO PROBLEMS and fix what was not broken.
In this case, I can only see replacing downpipe and doing without the O2. It was dead anyway all this time with no driveability issues, no missfires, nothing.
THE CAR HAS NEVER BACKFIRED (If you mean sounded like a popping/gun shot out the muffler ? NEVER
NEVER any predetonation or whtever you call it when you turn ignition switch and keeps running a little then finally dies out . NEVER.
If that manifold is cracked there, can it be repaired? Welded? I surely cannot afford to by some after market thing and there are no replacements that are not used otherwise are there?
My thoughts are to put back at orignal state before this crap started and see how performs and then start the APPRoPRIATE testing based on what is doing once back to where it was before I changed things I shouild have left alone.
Would you agree with this approach?
You asked if my complaint was EGR or low idle Hot when I took to this shop? I told them all that had been done, told still had PO400 code, told symptoms of misfire at operating temp after driving 3-5 miles, told RPMS showing low on guage my hiccup/stutter (Misfire) when sitting at idle and when that seemed to have started. I heard nothing from them after them having it 3 days and sent your info about cleaning all intake passages etc as related to egr and suddenly they seemed to run with that. Got chared a ton for nothing. Meaning obviously problem not resolved.
Either way, since I dont have the car I cant take pics of motor, cant drive, etc. until Monday. I will try and get and send you to see motor for sure. Will that help you confirm motor? I know 16 valve - all I know for sure now. Know it SHOULD BE a 1997 motor or late 96 but....
All this being said, MORE QUESTIONS:
I cannot look in person to see my own ISC and or IAC. Do I have both?
When you say "TIP in acceleration" what does TIP mean?
What does TIP in throttle only not WOT mean?
Is the idle switch the ISC?
so you are saying EGR would never cause low 500 RPM ever. Just golf tee damn thing for now - correct? That seems clear.
How do you raise idle by hand?
Well obviously they dont know or do basics. I dont know what the ____ they do or know. Surely they have scanners....Big shop.
Can any of that data be printed out? freeze frame stuff, etc?
I can say this, I wish I knew where you were located and could bring you my car. I would gladly do so in a heartbeat!!!!
I just want to make a few things clear for the record. They probably won't make much difference but I want the record to be straight for the person reading this thread so more confusion is not added to a terrible situiation. Maybe someone , especially inexperienced male or female, can learn from this too.
I am not one of these guys that knows and understands all of this stuff about cars. I am an older woman who knows something about cars and can do some simple things like oil chnages, changing hoses, etc. I do not have the tools and equipment nor the knowledge to do more involved work or I would. Sadly, I have to rely on others who are supposed to know or advertise that they know and represent themselves as experienced mechanics. I am at the mercy of these people.
I am not ignorant and I try to research and learn and understand and know enough to ask questions or challenge something but don't have enough knowledge to know what is wrong and tell them what to fix. I can only tell them the symptoms and hope that they understand and can replicate and know what the hell they are doing and find it and fix it.
I agree. Many or most of these are not a Sidekick issue only. Its basic and can occur with most vehicles. So I dont understand why they cant find it or fix it. I am not told what they have done and the results unless I literally go get in their face and ask point blank. Phone call gets me NOTHING.
For many these cars are toys or a hobby. I have probably owned 15 Sidekicks and Trackers from an 89 to a 98 and have never had this issue with any of them. I love these cars and feel comfortable with them. This car in particular is basically my sole vehicle, my daily driver. I am on a fixed income and have spent over $5000 recently on this car - mostly in labor for things that needed to be done as I outlined in the previous information. I need and want my car fixed. I am pretty desperate here!
1. I bought this car from an older couple's estate with 60K on the ODO. They bought it new. I have the original sales paperwork and that is about it. I got it in 2015.
I sincerely doubt there was or has been any engine swap etc. How in heck it has a throttle body for a 92-95 model I don't know. I suspect it came that way from manufacturer. You say parts were often used on later cars so..???
This car is/was bone stock - no mods when I got it that I could see. But I am not an expert. That car was like new and ran like new until I messed up and messed with stuff I should have continued to ignore.
Since i have had the car it has NEVER had any issues with idling, running, starting, shifting, nothing. It handled like new. yes, the Service ENGINE LIGHT APPEARED INTERMITTENTLY AT FIRST BUT NEVER ANY HESITATION, MISFIRES, ETC. THEREFORE, I ignored it all this time with no issues. I OPENED a can of worms I should have left alone because I wanted to do the right thing and keep the car running and good as long as possible.
Since I got a little $$$ and was fixing things, I thought I would finally see why the CEL (SERVICE ENGINE SOON - it says) was on. Should have ignored!!!!
Now unless that O2 sensor being placed further down in the down pipe because the old one was stuck in manifold took a while to cause issues, i HAVE NOTHING ELSE TO BLAME FOR THIS STUFF STARTING. THE new EGR, switch and modulator were installed AFTER this O2 sensor was placed in the down pipe.
AND....
It was not UNTIL I had my REGULAR MECHANIC SHOP swap the EGR, MODULATOR and EGR SWITCH that the Hiccup at IDLE started and I happened to notice that RPMS at idle looked to be about 500 RPM. Even still the car idled correctly at start up and gradulaly idled down as it should when reached operating temp. Never a stutter, hiccup or misfire until I switched that EGR, MOD and switch after the O2 sensors replaced.
The gross hesitation/misfiring whatever it is called started/ only occurred INITIALLY with water in gas and cleared up for a week after that was fixed. The only symptom of anything wrong thereafter was the 500 RPM idle w/hiccup (misfire) that had began after the O2 put in downpipe and EGR, switch and MOD replaced with "new" parts. After that week, the hesitatiion (misfire) returned but still corrected with little more pressure on accelerator (WOT you call it?)
I made things worse by messing with the black plastic screw on top of the throttle body to try and adjust idle myself. I did not have to take a cover or plug off to get to this screw. It is black plastic on top of throttle body with phillips flat appearenace. I couldnt get the idle back right or when it appeared I did, it would still end up dropping to the 500 rpm at stops, etc. after driving a few miles. (I told shop I did this too).
Actually, once at operating temp, when I would stop at light or stop sign it would be 1000 maybe 800 -900 then eventually drop to 500 range but NEVER died, etc. The RPMS when driving seemed right in each gear, before shifting etc. (possibly a little high but not sure)
You say misfire -. Whatever it was, it is the only thing that was going on after those O2 and EGR, switch and Mod things were replaced. Even though they said my original parts were good, I still had PO400 code and bought the parts off ebay and had them replace. MY fault for fixing what was not broken. THe car was running and idling fine - to specs before that.
Before all this no problems! 5 years driving with CEL on.
After the water in gas tank issue, MY REGULAR MECHANIC SHOP was slammed (too busy to help me fix fast/soon) so I had to find another shop who would even attempt to fix or work on older cars. It is not my regular shop.
1. I said earlier in this post (I guess you missed or misunderstood) I bought a USED (not new) throttle body off ebay just to have because they are hard to find. It was off a 1998 tracker, 1.6 2wd, 2door. It should have been right for my car. It is not new. I paid $60 for it. I cleaned thoroughly etc. It also came with TPS attached. So I just happened to have it. I never saw my TB off the car or my TPS so I had no way of knowing that the car I have been driving for almost 5 YEARS with no problems had a throttle body off a 92-95 Sidekick. I just know it ran fine all these years with no problems.
You asked or thought I said mechanic replaced the TB and used wrong year....not case. Did not say that.
When we could not find the right TPS anywhere is because I never saw mine and the shop did not know my car had an older throttle body on it. They thought it was for the 97 vehicle that I have. Once I went over and saw the TPS, I thought the USED throttle body I got was wrong. It was really the right one that actually should have been on my 1997 car. Who would have known?
Confusion aside, because we could not find the part (TPS for the TB on my car) because you could see no number and we were ordering for 1997 sidekick, we kept getting wrong part. Once you said it sounded like mine was off a 95 or older and suspected older throttle body that kind of answered the question.
The shop thought just try and swap my throttle body and TPS and install the one I bought USED off ebay and the corresponding TPS to that throttle body as described above. Like I said, they called and told me running good but needed more drive time. With more drive time, all symptoms back. What symptoms back you asked?
As far as symptoms back, they said SUPPOSEDLY did not notice hiccup (misfire) sitting at idle at operating temp, did not state idle RPMS (if correct or low) only said hesitation or bogging WOT. (Guy claimed he now knew when gonna do it and thats why thought symptoms of TPS).
I would hope they know to set/ calibrate and how to set the TPS....OMG!!!
I understand what you are saying about appropriate testing. The shop should know and understand all of this. It sounds lijke guess work and just throwing stuff at problem rather than diagnosing and fixing. I am no mechanic. I cannot prove. I understand the methodical approach of checking things in a particular order based on symptoms and elimanting based on performance/ results. I expect that they should know even better.
In honesty, I dont think they found any leaks at intake, I was having NO problems or issues with the sensors they did replace. They had some green corrosion on them but were functioning as they should. In fact I was going to order them and have them replaced next time at my REGULAR mechanics in order to be proactive. They were not tested by this shop. They were not failing... just saw corrosion and bingo. They had no data /codes to say bad and I had no symptoms related. It was guessing and throwing parts at problem because I still was not told what tests done to determine malfunction/issues.
This shop has told me of no testing done at anytime. I have had to ask questions - like pulling damn teeth. But they have my car and I have paid them $1025 and want them to make right as much as possible. It was not fixed when paid for so they need to fix if I can get them to without more $$$$ paid. Otherwise, I would take my car back to my regular shop but I will pay more $$$$$ that I dont have to try and get fixed. I am over a barrel right now.
If I tick them off, they will probably tell me to come get my car and go to hell. I need to try and be diplomatic when I am trying to tell them they dont know thier butt from a hole in the ground and that I think they are ripping me off! Try and get them to fix as best possible and get back to regular shop if necessary after that. But I wnat my $1025 worth out of this place.
Just let me say that in my tiny mind, I am thinking that I should have left things alone. I am thinking:
A) Put back my old egr, switch and modulator. ***BTW the modulator not off a TOYOTA, it was purchased off ebay. Guy in Colorado has collected quite a few and sells on ebay - USED. I know I replaced a used with a used...his probably no better than mine so I have an extra you can say.
The egr switch is remanufatured switch off ebay and the egr is refurbished from Hwy 83 suzuki in Wisconsin - salvage place that sells on ebay - meaning it was cleaned up and tested, etc. I am poor and even poorer after all this!
B) KILL THE UPSTREAM O2 IN THE DOWN PIPE. THE ORIGINAL IN THE MANIFOLD THAT THEY COULD NOT GET OUT WAS DEAD ANYWAY. IF i HAVE TO, BECAUSE OF THE BUNG HOLE THEY MADE AND PUT THE O2 SENSOR IN BECAUSE ORIGINAL STUCK IN THE MANIFOLD, REPLACE THE DOWN PIPE AND JUST DO WITHOUT THE O2. IT WAS NOT WORKING ANYWAY. MAYBE CUT THE CAT OUT TOO. I did that on my 1998 tracker because I didn't have $$$$ for new cat so my ex-husband and I cut out and straight piped from down pipe to muffler. NEVER a CEL. Never a misfire, never a problem.
C) Definitely have them put back throttle body/TPS originally on my car (not one on there now they just put on that I bought off EBay)
This maybe wrong thing to do but at least if I go back to square one - where things were before the "misfire" at idle, some confusion can be eliminated.
OR scenario 2:
1. Have this mechanic shop put my original Throttle body and TPS back on the car. They did not test just thought symptoms seemed like TPS symptoms - I asked.
2. Put old EGR, switch and MOD back on AND
Insist that they check the timing, do vacum test, do fuel pressure test, etc? Should I get them to do back pressure test/ I asked iniatially 2 times and never done. I am concerned about cat , etc as well. Could be any issue here?
No compression test done that I know of.
Have them smoke test? What would they be looking for or seeing here since other shop did and found nothing before? Just trying to understand.
3. What can I do about that O2 in down pipe? Disconnect? Are you saying it may be leaking around it or its not reading right because relocated? If so, I can only see replacing downpipe to elimante hole the O2 sensor now in.
I cannot speak for any crack in the exhaust manifold. If there is one I am not aware and I had no issues/ problems etc before this fiasco with EGR stuff and O2 sensors. I dont doubt you. I only know what I know.
I HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH MISFIRE< IDLE< NOTHING....Ran great, idled great, etc until I stupidly decided to scan car becausse of CEL on 4 years with NO PROBLEMS and fix what was not broken.
In this case, I can only see replacing downpipe and doing without the O2. It was dead anyway all this time with no driveability issues, no missfires, nothing.
THE CAR HAS NEVER BACKFIRED (If you mean sounded like a popping/gun shot out the muffler ? NEVER
NEVER any predetonation or whtever you call it when you turn ignition switch and keeps running a little then finally dies out . NEVER.
If that manifold is cracked there, can it be repaired? Welded? I surely cannot afford to by some after market thing and there are no replacements that are not used otherwise are there?
My thoughts are to put back at orignal state before this crap started and see how performs and then start the APPRoPRIATE testing based on what is doing once back to where it was before I changed things I shouild have left alone.
Would you agree with this approach?
You asked if my complaint was EGR or low idle Hot when I took to this shop? I told them all that had been done, told still had PO400 code, told symptoms of misfire at operating temp after driving 3-5 miles, told RPMS showing low on guage my hiccup/stutter (Misfire) when sitting at idle and when that seemed to have started. I heard nothing from them after them having it 3 days and sent your info about cleaning all intake passages etc as related to egr and suddenly they seemed to run with that. Got chared a ton for nothing. Meaning obviously problem not resolved.
Either way, since I dont have the car I cant take pics of motor, cant drive, etc. until Monday. I will try and get and send you to see motor for sure. Will that help you confirm motor? I know 16 valve - all I know for sure now. Know it SHOULD BE a 1997 motor or late 96 but....
All this being said, MORE QUESTIONS:
I cannot look in person to see my own ISC and or IAC. Do I have both?
When you say "TIP in acceleration" what does TIP mean?
What does TIP in throttle only not WOT mean?
Is the idle switch the ISC?
so you are saying EGR would never cause low 500 RPM ever. Just golf tee damn thing for now - correct? That seems clear.
How do you raise idle by hand?
Well obviously they dont know or do basics. I dont know what the ____ they do or know. Surely they have scanners....Big shop.
Can any of that data be printed out? freeze frame stuff, etc?
I can say this, I wish I knew where you were located and could bring you my car. I would gladly do so in a heartbeat!!!!