03-04-2020, 08:29 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-04-2020, 08:51 AM by 3Waggintails.)
Okay. Here is what I can tell you:
1. Link to prior post: https://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/...p?tid=2599
2. I am not in Canada. Canada made Sidekick though. I am in Birmingham, AL. Not two different cars. I do have cheap code reader and have been using although other than codes I can look up all the other stuff means nothing.
3. 1997 Suzuki SK, 4dr, MT. Current miles are approx 97, 560 - original. Stock car.
4. Based on info from last post let me add what I can here to hopefully help us both. You are correct time or $$$. I did not have $$$ to do some things that I should have and also not in a position to be without car a LONG period of time. Basic maintenance was done like oil changes etc. and the occassional "oops" I need a battery or alternator, etc.
5: Once I got $$ I started more important maintenance - oil leaks, timing belt replacement, hoses, belts etc:
Last April (19) had the folllowing done: timing belt and water pump, new cam and crank seals, oil pan gasket, belts, hoses, oil pressure switch, PCV valve, oil pan nut, thermostat and air filter, crankshaft position sensor (I believe). Mileage was 85,955
In Dec 2019 Distributor O rings replaced and 02 sensors as well as muffler. Was not back pressure tested although I wnated to be sure no cat issues. Steering geerbox replaced along with struts etc
Note EGR code and 02 sensor codes finally "pulled" at this time. Why I started pn this journey. Mechanic schecked switch voltage or whatever for egr and vacum and mudulator, etc. Said all items good. Cleared code. Code back after 2 days and I decided to get NEW EGR, modulator and switch and just try to address....maybe dirty etc. I wnated all vacum lines replaced as they are 23 years old. I am second owner and got with 60K on clock. Older couples estate sold. They only drove around small town in south AL, etc.
They vacum lines were NOT replaced as I requested and it was not smoke tested as I requested to check for leaks.
After EGR components replaced is when I noticed the low idle 500 RPM (cant say I paid attention before because I had no performance issues other than my gas milage had dropped gradually from 24-25 city stuff to 19-21) and now how the slight, tiny stutter at idle that wasnt there prior to egr stuff replaced. Car otherwise ran great. No issues. I attributed to winter gas, long sitting and idling on cold mornings to warm up etc. BUT took car back and insisted on smoke test. Just before I took in on Feb 11 is when I supposedly got bad gas. See info on that post.
Smoke test done on 2/11/20 (negative) and MAF cleaned. I requested check fuel filter because I suspected bad gas. They said lots of muddy water it looked like. I saw small sample. Tank was dropped and drained. Suppposedly, wiped out inside thats it. Replaced the fuel filter, pump and strainer/screen.
Since I was there and already in deep $$$, I told them to replace plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button. Now did they gap plugs? Don't think so did not see done. Out of box into car.
A couple of days later (2/13) is when I noticed the power loss/hesitation/recovery thing at speeds of 20-25mph at first but with more driving it occurred at varying speeds as I noted in prior post. I thought surely no bad gas again??!! When I got home, I used code reader and got P0400 but also got some freeze frame data. Didnt realize 2 pages of it on scanner so all I got was:
Load Pct: 11.8
ETC: 185 degrees F
MAP (in HG): 6. 8
RPM (/min): 1794
VSS (mph):28
Other infor I got was readiness stuff for passing emmissions. Dont think helpful here?
Called my regular shop and they were slammed so continued carefully driving car and collecting the info you saw in prior post while searching for alternate reputable shop.
Took to new shop on 2/21 and asked to resmoke, do back pressure test or whatever to check CAT and to address the P0400 issue. Told about idle speed and hesitation issue, hiccup at idle, etc. Rest is I said in post as far as what they did. I literally begged, stressed etc. to check fuel fil;ter - not done!!!
So today, I wanted to get more data after getting the car back after $1025 in labor etc so I could tell you and them that code CHK ENG came back and was PO400. Popped after 3rd drive cycle - when I started the 4th time yesterday.
After driving this morning, I pulled code (P0400) and the the following DTC Freeze Frame:
Fuel system 1 -OL
Fuel system 2 - n/a
Load - PCT: 20.4
ETC (deg F): 180
Shrt FT 1 %: 0.0
Long Ft 1%: 3.9
MAP (in HG): 9.7
RPM (/min) 2690)
VSS (mph):40
So, dont know if this helps you any. But my conundrum is if fuel tank, fuel injector, etc issue now suspect, car needs to go back to original shop. But I just spent $1025 at other shop that I do not think totally addressed P0400. I cannot give away that kind of money!!!
You now say leave EGR issue alone and pursue fuel issues. I understand about tank, Flushing fuel lines, injectors ( could just replace) and FPR.
You say more issues....beyond that what?
What are P0300 errors and why doesnt my scan tool show?
What is MDP?
I will have to talk to $1025 shop about what the ____ they gonna do to make right but need to take to regular shop on fuel issue and see. Either way will take me a week or more to get an answer repair in all liklihood.
Am I hurting car badly by driving? Afraid gonna fail me somewhere.
How would I PM you if needed?
1. Link to prior post: https://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/...p?tid=2599
2. I am not in Canada. Canada made Sidekick though. I am in Birmingham, AL. Not two different cars. I do have cheap code reader and have been using although other than codes I can look up all the other stuff means nothing.
3. 1997 Suzuki SK, 4dr, MT. Current miles are approx 97, 560 - original. Stock car.
4. Based on info from last post let me add what I can here to hopefully help us both. You are correct time or $$$. I did not have $$$ to do some things that I should have and also not in a position to be without car a LONG period of time. Basic maintenance was done like oil changes etc. and the occassional "oops" I need a battery or alternator, etc.
5: Once I got $$ I started more important maintenance - oil leaks, timing belt replacement, hoses, belts etc:
Last April (19) had the folllowing done: timing belt and water pump, new cam and crank seals, oil pan gasket, belts, hoses, oil pressure switch, PCV valve, oil pan nut, thermostat and air filter, crankshaft position sensor (I believe). Mileage was 85,955
In Dec 2019 Distributor O rings replaced and 02 sensors as well as muffler. Was not back pressure tested although I wnated to be sure no cat issues. Steering geerbox replaced along with struts etc
Note EGR code and 02 sensor codes finally "pulled" at this time. Why I started pn this journey. Mechanic schecked switch voltage or whatever for egr and vacum and mudulator, etc. Said all items good. Cleared code. Code back after 2 days and I decided to get NEW EGR, modulator and switch and just try to address....maybe dirty etc. I wnated all vacum lines replaced as they are 23 years old. I am second owner and got with 60K on clock. Older couples estate sold. They only drove around small town in south AL, etc.
They vacum lines were NOT replaced as I requested and it was not smoke tested as I requested to check for leaks.
After EGR components replaced is when I noticed the low idle 500 RPM (cant say I paid attention before because I had no performance issues other than my gas milage had dropped gradually from 24-25 city stuff to 19-21) and now how the slight, tiny stutter at idle that wasnt there prior to egr stuff replaced. Car otherwise ran great. No issues. I attributed to winter gas, long sitting and idling on cold mornings to warm up etc. BUT took car back and insisted on smoke test. Just before I took in on Feb 11 is when I supposedly got bad gas. See info on that post.
Smoke test done on 2/11/20 (negative) and MAF cleaned. I requested check fuel filter because I suspected bad gas. They said lots of muddy water it looked like. I saw small sample. Tank was dropped and drained. Suppposedly, wiped out inside thats it. Replaced the fuel filter, pump and strainer/screen.
Since I was there and already in deep $$$, I told them to replace plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button. Now did they gap plugs? Don't think so did not see done. Out of box into car.
A couple of days later (2/13) is when I noticed the power loss/hesitation/recovery thing at speeds of 20-25mph at first but with more driving it occurred at varying speeds as I noted in prior post. I thought surely no bad gas again??!! When I got home, I used code reader and got P0400 but also got some freeze frame data. Didnt realize 2 pages of it on scanner so all I got was:
Load Pct: 11.8
ETC: 185 degrees F
MAP (in HG): 6. 8
RPM (/min): 1794
VSS (mph):28
Other infor I got was readiness stuff for passing emmissions. Dont think helpful here?
Called my regular shop and they were slammed so continued carefully driving car and collecting the info you saw in prior post while searching for alternate reputable shop.
Took to new shop on 2/21 and asked to resmoke, do back pressure test or whatever to check CAT and to address the P0400 issue. Told about idle speed and hesitation issue, hiccup at idle, etc. Rest is I said in post as far as what they did. I literally begged, stressed etc. to check fuel fil;ter - not done!!!
So today, I wanted to get more data after getting the car back after $1025 in labor etc so I could tell you and them that code CHK ENG came back and was PO400. Popped after 3rd drive cycle - when I started the 4th time yesterday.
After driving this morning, I pulled code (P0400) and the the following DTC Freeze Frame:
Fuel system 1 -OL
Fuel system 2 - n/a
Load - PCT: 20.4
ETC (deg F): 180
Shrt FT 1 %: 0.0
Long Ft 1%: 3.9
MAP (in HG): 9.7
RPM (/min) 2690)
VSS (mph):40
So, dont know if this helps you any. But my conundrum is if fuel tank, fuel injector, etc issue now suspect, car needs to go back to original shop. But I just spent $1025 at other shop that I do not think totally addressed P0400. I cannot give away that kind of money!!!
You now say leave EGR issue alone and pursue fuel issues. I understand about tank, Flushing fuel lines, injectors ( could just replace) and FPR.
You say more issues....beyond that what?
What are P0300 errors and why doesnt my scan tool show?
What is MDP?
I will have to talk to $1025 shop about what the ____ they gonna do to make right but need to take to regular shop on fuel issue and see. Either way will take me a week or more to get an answer repair in all liklihood.
Am I hurting car badly by driving? Afraid gonna fail me somewhere.
How would I PM you if needed?