Catalytic Converter, O2 Sensor & EGR Questions

[Von]

94 Suzuki Sidekick JLX 4x4 with a 1.6L 16v engine.
that new Exhaust manifold.  has no EGR tube, and is the old old NON USA/CALIF non EPA/CARB version,  so.......
REDUX,  back to post #1
94 Suzuki Sidekick JLX 4x4 with a 1.6L 16v engine.
I guess you never seen the car run before,  not mentioned in post #1, if it did not say so and we time the engine right,  as your PO my have all this wrong ,  as many do.
so just  defeat the EGR,
make sure it is closed in side  and no leaking, and mount it, (for prosperity) and just  remove the vacuum line and GOLF TEE the end so the hose can NOT SUCK AIR.
if the EGR is not stuck open it can not cause failure to start. can not.  (it has its own spring inside, that keeps it closed forever, if you defeat the vacuum line that is. per above.
then do the test fuel tests.
when you work on the cam belt.
did you use the right markings if not compression fails and spark timing will be all wrong,
do NOT USE "I" marks, for key or timing mark see below.  the bottom crank mark is at 12PM. cog and top on oil pump marked)







if this is done right  the spark is next.
error #1 by many PO/'s  is using 8v  wiring order for 16v engine, and will NEVER run again.







Timing a Distrib is just like some old 1960s Chevy V8.
the disrib is gear driving 13 teeth (IIRC)


the timing steps are here (full)

https://fixkick.com/16v-ignition-timing



the simpler way

1. crank pulley at 0 degree mark TDC #1 firing,  the both #1 valves are loss if not #4 is firing, if yes, turn crank crank one full turn and now #1 valves are lose.
   
2. off the distrib cap, see rotor ., at 1PM if not it was timed wrong, I mark the distrib base rim with ink to make #1 spot on the rim of distrib.
   
3. remove distrib body and drop it back down up to 3 times,(guess) until rotor lands on paint mark above. bingo timed correctly (later we use  timing light)
   
4. tighten the side clamp on distrib base.
   

seen these cars with C4 china junk parts rotor that fits on 3 ways, DOOMED that, buy real parts,  this is my first look thing, the bottom of the rotor (REAL) has spring clip
that blocks all ways of doing it wrong 2 wrong 1 right.  this is good rotor.  



compression spec, on this engine is  
The 16v is 195 PSI. Seen in  FSM chapter 6-6 (not 6A1)    (never 100 , never 50) if all are low the cam belt is wrong.

warm engine at sea level.  and throttle must be blocked open some or more, air starvation makes readings wrong.

Ok looks like I’m starting over from scratch. The engine ran when I got it. I have seen it run and driven it. I timed it based off of the info from your forum and pages, I never moved the cam and crank pulleys independently. I put the plugs back the way the PO has them originally. I will be starting over verifying everything from the beginning. And will let you know how it goes.