no injection ...ECU? 92 tracker 8v TBI

[armchairlonghair]

NO codes, is a bad ECU (DOA)
ECUs that can not tell the ECT is unplugged is a bad ECU.

with 3 ECU with the same symptoms am I risking it buying one. Is it the tracker that is frying them? Can I trust to put a new one in?

when changing caps be real sure you do no rip the plated through holes out of the PCB, called VIA's if you do , the PCB looses 1/2 its power and goes to backup mode.
what i do is probe every digital chip for 5v (VCC/VDD) pins for 5vdc, if not present the , power line was cut. or etched through with acid, leaks.

which is the 5v pin on these chips?

you are doing everything right. and 19inchs vacuum is normal for idle speed. or 10 cranking (shooting from hip) good test, the MAP is not stopping the NOID
DEAD NOID:?

I used about 12 inch vacuum.

i have a transistor tester, so can check the beta easy. but you can use and ohmmeter to see if they are open or shorted, easy. (using diode selection on the dial of DMM) some meters do have Transistor tester socket on top.

I guess after the Cap change. I didn't really want to pull them off the board and heat sink just to test. will wait till I have one flashing codes

put your efforts in ECU that flash codes good, after fresh caps, just the ruby's go bad, never seen other brands puke acid in suzuki ECU.

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i use the noid lamp just in case the car has 2 problems
get the noid working first. i use a low current incandescent lamp. (easy to see it)
Some folks can not see 5 milisecond flashes of a very fast LED, lamp.... so use a real NOID lamp.
the lamp makes the flash seem longer, and works best for all humans....
BTW, i can see LED flashes that fast.

The Noid light tests fine with 12 v applied. I was only able to find L-6 / 8v 35mA lamp. Radio shack is not in Canada anymore.I found an old catalog and cross ref the part # with no joy. You could mention on your pages that these lamps are for doll house displays and may be found at hobby stores

then using a solder sucker, (spring type not bulb) and heat it,for 3 seconds and suck.
then try to wiggle the cap wire lead with solder iron tip.
repeat , suck, wiggle, at one point it's free. lead floating in hole.
this way protects, the Plated Thru hole from damage, the corner cap has such a feed thru's. it feeds DC power to the other side. and must do so.
rule 2 do not ever drill this PCB.
if you wreck the VIA, feed thru, then run a wire from top to bottom around the side of PCB. it can be fixed, if damaged.
Do not use the heat and yank trick or it will wreck the via's

I have a solder sucker but perhaps could have been more careful. The VIA repair seems odd does the pin of the cap not do this as it goes all the way through? the solder in the hole same question? How can I attach to the via's to wire around the board?

Most importantly I am only able to locally source 63 v or 35 v caps is this a problem and which would you use if you had a choice?

Thanks for helping me through this frustration.