1993 Tracker ECM contolling alternator?

[fixkick]

I have been trying to figure out if my reman ECM, while allowing my 93 Tracker 8V 5 speed to finally start and run normally, is possibly keeping the alternator from charging. The original ECM had the fuel pump relay clicking while cranking normally, good battery. I removed the original ECM and replaced the  usual bad capacitors, but this did not fix the clicking fuel pump relay/no start issue. I gave up on that ECM and got a Cardone reman. The reman allowed the Tracker to fire right up and run normally, but I soon noticed that the headlights were dim and wipers were slow, and after an hour the battery ran down. I tsted the alternator and got no charging at the battery. I replaced the alternator with a reman unit, despite being suspicious of the coincidence of the original alternator failing simultaneously with the ECM. The original alternator was charging fine before the fuel pump relay clicking/no start issue, and the battery was, and still is, good. This leads me to believe that the reman ECM is partially working to the extent that it allows the vehicle to start and run, but is not prompting the alternator to kick on. My question is, does the ECM control alternator output on my 1993 Geo Tracker 8 valve 5 speed 2 door, base, no A/C? If not, then I'll try another alternator?

first off fuel pumps can short inside on one segment and the  (4amps normal current ) goes 2 or more times higher and overloads power, and guess what the ECU uses that same lame weak power wire.
and makes the ECU crash, and reboot and the relays click. but yes so does bad caps inside ECU.


the ECU does not run the alternator at all,  only the alternator runs itself,  with its own internal regulator. (does the dash charge lamp work, it needs to work.

your finder box, fuel box all rusty the bottom???? classic failure , in the main fixkick.com page type bad ground or bad power.
no the only relation ship  the ECU has to  alternator is RPM  at 800 hot and 1000 to 1500 RPM cold the alternator is full output,  13.3v float to near 15vdc full charging battery, use a voltmeter at idle,l  13,.3 volts is good 12v bad.
I can only assume fan belt tight and battery is good. Load tests of battery passes.
The next is bad wiring,
the alternator has only 4 wires. not one goes to ECU at all.  proof here but the case not ground makes it fail the 4 wire is ground.

bad battery cables. the alternator 60a fuse  blow as seen in the link above. the charge lamp must not be burned out or the alt can fail to boot strap up,(born dead even 1/2 the time.)
In the link about see lamp goes to R1, lamp dead R1 fails. startup excitation is dead,  unless lucky and rotor has residual magnetism remaining. (the lamp must work)
and this.

to change out any alternator pull the big fuse first  or pull battery neg lug first. or boom happens.