Clutch Release Shaft

[fixkick]

Thanks for the reply - I will try and take a photo. 
To answer some of your questions:
The current cable I am running on my 96 is indeed the "rubber mount" version. It is the Beck Arnley 093-0642, which was recommended by your website (thank you!)
I ordered a genuine suzuki cable which is on its way, part 23710-57B12.
So my cable is correct. 

The creaking sound is definetly not TO bearing. It is possible that my cable is not routed correctly - the cable routes downwards, clamps a few inches away from the power steering belt, and then routes under the radiator (the radiator has a built in cable holder which the cable sits in). Maybe the cable is shifting around at the bottom of the radiator? I can try and reinforce the cable with some zip ties down there. I'll try and take a photo

The creaking sound seems to be from some sort of incorrect tension somewhere around the clutch shaft / actuator, the creaking sound is only heard when i press in the clutch and depress it slowly; if i hold the clutch in halfway, no sound is heard. So it could be the cable, cable routing, or improper cable mounting. 

Now for the most important thing - what you call the "titty mark" at the clutch actuator / clutch shaft - so I understand that the factory aligned them as so:
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...age_7.html
A couple years ago before I bought this car, the trannny was rebuilt and a new clutch was installed by a mechanic . When I inspected the "titty mark", the alignment was WAY off, and an arbitrary mark was drawn on the clutch shaft by the mechanic inidicating thats where the "new" alignment should be. If I were to remove the actuator and install it according to the original factory titty mark, the actuator would be WAY off (it wouldnt be perpindicular to the bell housing) and the clutch would not be able to engage. 
Does that mean that something was installed incorrectly during the tranny rebuilding process? Should I resort to removing the transmission, and replacing the shaft, TO bearing, actuator, spring, etc..?
I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how the clutch shaft is initially aligned during installation in the first place..

I quickly made a drawing of what I mean about the clutch actuator: Your photo linked about shows the actuator angled away from the front of the car - is this how it should be in its relaxed position? Is it angled that far left just before it comes into contact with the TO bearing? 
If I remove my clutch cable from the actuator and let it relax, it looks like this (look at the green line, the actuator is angled very slighty towards the front of the car. [/url]
[url=https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG]https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG


So if my lever is angled to forward, then when I press in the clutch the lever may move too far forward and cause excess tension, correct? Maybe I should angle the actuator like how you have it shown in the image

gawd knows what clutch he used inside or TObearing?
my photo is 100% factory way for sure (I had 3 cars all 3 the same mark and later set right after new clutch I put in.) not sure if bell is on car or not and fitted up, I FORGET) sorry.
seen some real crap clutches sold on fleabay, pure junk.(china crap has no limit on crap) the maker  ,I USED EXEDY ,  
or he use 8valve clutch on 16valve engine.  wrong that is. the 16v is tad bigger. diameter disk, and matching PP.

if you get all this wrong that lever, this SMACKS to me of wrong clutch
if you had right clutch and put the lever wrong, it makes  pedal act way wrong, and hard to slip the clutch driving, that is because of the 2 levers landing on the front of the TOBearing

I can not fathom why any mechanic would move lever 10, not any reasons of any kind,  its all wrong that.


that titty is just factory punch mark, and is very important to get that right for the right feel of  the clutch.
well at least the 2wd is 10x more easy to work on lacking transfer case.

the bell cross clutch lever is in nylon bushings and you can oil them if one squeaks. lightly.

other possible (the lever is bent inside,  100bls of foot pressure can be 600 lbs of pressure at the TO bearing face ( and if last person had seized to shaft bearing, (TO) i can see that the fingers might bend there, and mechanic loath to fix this right (new parts)  part ID #5 is my topic on this line.  damaged, inside.
A TOB (throw out ) bearing can fail and go red hot and seize and strong driver (gorilla like) can wreck and wreck the pedals and the fire wall cracked.

sadly only close inspections find any of these , failures.
the cable too can be lubricated, using PEN oil, spray, that will not dry out like WD (blue /yellow/white ) can does. or silicon spray oil.

hope you  solve your riddle I do and soon, good luck to you for  sure, wish was there to add helping hands....