Thanks for the reply - I will try and take a photo.
To answer some of your questions:
The current cable I am running on my 96 is indeed the "rubber mount" version. It is the Beck Arnley 093-0642, which was recommended by your website (thank you!)
I ordered a genuine suzuki cable which is on its way, part 23710-57B12.
So my cable is correct.
The creaking sound is definetly not TO bearing. It is possible that my cable is not routed correctly - the cable routes downwards, clamps a few inches away from the power steering belt, and then routes under the radiator (the radiator has a built in cable holder which the cable sits in). Maybe the cable is shifting around at the bottom of the radiator? I can try and reinforce the cable with some zip ties down there. I'll try and take a photo
The creaking sound seems to be from some sort of incorrect tension somewhere around the clutch shaft / actuator, the creaking sound is only heard when i press in the clutch and depress it slowly; if i hold the clutch in halfway, no sound is heard. So it could be the cable, cable routing, or improper cable mounting.
Now for the most important thing - what you call the "titty mark" at the clutch actuator / clutch shaft - so I understand that the factory aligned them as so:
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...age_7.html
A couple years ago before I bought this car, the trannny was rebuilt and a new clutch was installed by a mechanic . When I inspected the "titty mark", the alignment was WAY off, and an arbitrary mark was drawn on the clutch shaft by the mechanic inidicating thats where the "new" alignment should be. If I were to remove the actuator and install it according to the original factory titty mark, the actuator would be WAY off (it wouldnt be perpindicular to the bell housing) and the clutch would not be able to engage.
Does that mean that something was installed incorrectly during the tranny rebuilding process? Should I resort to removing the transmission, and replacing the shaft, TO bearing, actuator, spring, etc..?
I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how the clutch shaft is initially aligned during installation in the first place..
I quickly made a drawing of what I mean about the clutch actuator: Your photo linked about shows the actuator angled away from the front of the car - is this how it should be in its relaxed position? Is it angled that far left just before it comes into contact with the TO bearing?
If I remove my clutch cable from the actuator and let it relax, it looks like this (look at the green line, the actuator is angled very slighty towards the front of the car. [/url]
[url=https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG]https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG
So if my lever is angled to forward, then when I press in the clutch the lever may move too far forward and cause excess tension, correct? Maybe I should angle the actuator like how you have it shown in the image
To answer some of your questions:
The current cable I am running on my 96 is indeed the "rubber mount" version. It is the Beck Arnley 093-0642, which was recommended by your website (thank you!)
I ordered a genuine suzuki cable which is on its way, part 23710-57B12.
So my cable is correct.
The creaking sound is definetly not TO bearing. It is possible that my cable is not routed correctly - the cable routes downwards, clamps a few inches away from the power steering belt, and then routes under the radiator (the radiator has a built in cable holder which the cable sits in). Maybe the cable is shifting around at the bottom of the radiator? I can try and reinforce the cable with some zip ties down there. I'll try and take a photo
The creaking sound seems to be from some sort of incorrect tension somewhere around the clutch shaft / actuator, the creaking sound is only heard when i press in the clutch and depress it slowly; if i hold the clutch in halfway, no sound is heard. So it could be the cable, cable routing, or improper cable mounting.
Now for the most important thing - what you call the "titty mark" at the clutch actuator / clutch shaft - so I understand that the factory aligned them as so:
https://fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-...age_7.html
A couple years ago before I bought this car, the trannny was rebuilt and a new clutch was installed by a mechanic . When I inspected the "titty mark", the alignment was WAY off, and an arbitrary mark was drawn on the clutch shaft by the mechanic inidicating thats where the "new" alignment should be. If I were to remove the actuator and install it according to the original factory titty mark, the actuator would be WAY off (it wouldnt be perpindicular to the bell housing) and the clutch would not be able to engage.
Does that mean that something was installed incorrectly during the tranny rebuilding process? Should I resort to removing the transmission, and replacing the shaft, TO bearing, actuator, spring, etc..?
I'm just trying to wrap my mind around how the clutch shaft is initially aligned during installation in the first place..
I quickly made a drawing of what I mean about the clutch actuator: Your photo linked about shows the actuator angled away from the front of the car - is this how it should be in its relaxed position? Is it angled that far left just before it comes into contact with the TO bearing?
If I remove my clutch cable from the actuator and let it relax, it looks like this (look at the green line, the actuator is angled very slighty towards the front of the car. [/url]
[url=https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG]https://imgur.com/a/cyowjVG
So if my lever is angled to forward, then when I press in the clutch the lever may move too far forward and cause excess tension, correct? Maybe I should angle the actuator like how you have it shown in the image