12-25-2019, 03:01 AM
OK, here is what I found;
The tanks differ in the front to back distance between the mounting points.
The OE 4-door tank is about 2.5" further apart than an aftermarket 2-door tank.
The side to side mounting holes are the same for 2 and 4 door models.
One could mount a 2-door tank by removing the front tank crossmember. adding flanges to either end, and welding or bolting it in place a little farther back on the frame. this would cause a loss of 2 gallons fuel capacity. The skid plate remains intact.
The 4-door tank's fuel sending unit hole has a different bolt pattern than the 2-door tank hole.
I didn't look into emissions as I live near Tombstone, AZ which is an emissions attainment area and thus has no emissions requirements.
I ended up reusing the tank by first removing the rust then applying a chemical tank liner.
I followed this process:
1) used pressurized water to wash out as much crap as I could.
2) removed all the attachments from the fuel pump rack, capped the tubes with rubber plugs, then reinstalled the rack to the tank.
3) plugged all other openings to the tank except the fuel sending unit opening.
4) added 3 gallons of water to the tank followed by 6 gallons of swimming pool muriatic acid, bought at the local big box home store, then filled the tank completely with water.
5) covered the fuel level sending unit hole with a rock to keep birds away and let the tank sit, full of diluted muriatic acid for 24 hours.
6) drained the tank and properly disposed of the contents.
7) rinsed the tank with freshwater very well.
8) added a mixture of baking soda and water to the tank and repeated the rinse process.
9) After I was confident that the tank was fully neutralized, I used my gas leaf blower to fully dry the tank. I processed the fuel pump rack separately.
10) reinstalled the fuel pump rack, replugged all openings and applied Red Kote fuel tank sealant per can directions.
11) rebuilt fuel pump rack with new pump, SAE30R10 submersible fuel hose, stainless fuel injection hose clamps, new PVC insulated wire, and new rack to tank gaskets.
12) disassembled the fuel sending unit and removed all rust with soda blaster, cleaned the rheostat with alcohol and assembled/installed using new sending unit to tank gasket.
13) used new 1/4" fuel line for top of tank to steel fuel lines, reused the fuel filler hose.
Everything worked real well, for a total process cost of about $80.
The tanks differ in the front to back distance between the mounting points.
The OE 4-door tank is about 2.5" further apart than an aftermarket 2-door tank.
The side to side mounting holes are the same for 2 and 4 door models.
One could mount a 2-door tank by removing the front tank crossmember. adding flanges to either end, and welding or bolting it in place a little farther back on the frame. this would cause a loss of 2 gallons fuel capacity. The skid plate remains intact.
The 4-door tank's fuel sending unit hole has a different bolt pattern than the 2-door tank hole.
I didn't look into emissions as I live near Tombstone, AZ which is an emissions attainment area and thus has no emissions requirements.
I ended up reusing the tank by first removing the rust then applying a chemical tank liner.
I followed this process:
1) used pressurized water to wash out as much crap as I could.
2) removed all the attachments from the fuel pump rack, capped the tubes with rubber plugs, then reinstalled the rack to the tank.
3) plugged all other openings to the tank except the fuel sending unit opening.
4) added 3 gallons of water to the tank followed by 6 gallons of swimming pool muriatic acid, bought at the local big box home store, then filled the tank completely with water.
5) covered the fuel level sending unit hole with a rock to keep birds away and let the tank sit, full of diluted muriatic acid for 24 hours.
6) drained the tank and properly disposed of the contents.
7) rinsed the tank with freshwater very well.
8) added a mixture of baking soda and water to the tank and repeated the rinse process.
9) After I was confident that the tank was fully neutralized, I used my gas leaf blower to fully dry the tank. I processed the fuel pump rack separately.
10) reinstalled the fuel pump rack, replugged all openings and applied Red Kote fuel tank sealant per can directions.
11) rebuilt fuel pump rack with new pump, SAE30R10 submersible fuel hose, stainless fuel injection hose clamps, new PVC insulated wire, and new rack to tank gaskets.
12) disassembled the fuel sending unit and removed all rust with soda blaster, cleaned the rheostat with alcohol and assembled/installed using new sending unit to tank gasket.
13) used new 1/4" fuel line for top of tank to steel fuel lines, reused the fuel filler hose.
Everything worked real well, for a total process cost of about $80.