hello and welcome back, nice report. all very key facts !!!!
50 is bad, on all 4 cylinder? ?????????????? no other things need checking
no injection problem i real but 50 is catastrophic bad,
my guess, is you didnt use wide open throttle? , and the poor engine was trying to suck 1600 CCs of air through the tiny air bleed idle hole (pencil eraser size) ?
Compression must be down W.O.T..
the worst compression is about 150. the EFI system can NOT operate with no injection, sure test fuel works, but the EFI CANT run with no air flow. it cant.
the ECU only can compensate for normal wear, and if you thought the rings were dry ( the were not) you could put 2 squirts of oil in the cylinder and if it went from 50 to 150 then the rings
are like paper thin, useless.... end of life on rings....
if it stayed at 50psi then the valves are gone.... keep in mind the test fuel test will run any lawn more engine with 50psi , my vw bug is 100 psi new. my motor cycle same. 1966
but EFI does not run total dead motors. , this is because the VE tuning tables do not go that low (full answer) what happens is it floods.
The 8v ECU just hates VE radial changes, all Speed density system do. MAF , systems love it. (16v)
with low compression the VE is all wrong.. volumetric Efficiency (ablilty to pump air) wrong. causing the MAP to lie, big time.
my guess is that not done WOT, or gauge is bad. very bad.
if all 4 are 50? the gauge is bad... ill skip this.....
Remote starts, it's not stock, and aftermarket RS are a wild card, (no 2 are the same, and no 2 installed same or correct,) after all it over-rides the primary ignition and start system of the EFI
and can cause the the ECU to go nuts. The ECU monitors all those signals. and must be connected correctly.
no problem, we leave it there and work the problem to the true cause. if the wiring is bad, so be it, we can find all bad wiring. Use a volt meter. not ohms.
(unplugging a remote start conn. in most cases can kill all starts) (if not a true parallel system (design)
case in point (in Texas, this is illegal) so mfg have to have all doors locked, to allow remote starts. if not it fails. (laws)
that tach diagram i made, it's very accurate to the point i stopped, the rev. engineering... the only key part there, are the huge BACK EMF induction spikes the ECU watches.
the tachmeter sure can short out its , input line and cause DTC 41 and not fueling for sure. disconnect the tachmeter, speedo head connector behind cluster, (sorry a pain that.)
Pin B (tps) is 100% OK.
i have not ever tried to put wrong signals on all pins of any 8v ECU, (have done so on all sensors. to may levels)
lets review them all.
first off is the start pin, after all the remote start might mess that up, id bet.
how ever, push starting my 8v starts car with the start pin false. 0v
BTW1 your ECU fails my test 6, (dead sensor tests)
BTW2 the ECT is located 4 places on 4 engines, 1.6 to 2.7L, so i link only to the finder page. but yes,, can make this better, thanks, !!
This dead test 6 means the ECU is not running the software (firmware) called Catastrophic monitors, the monitor is OUT TO LUNCH, that is a dead ECU. its in some deep backup mode.
that makes spark. the spark is a software sub process. as is fueling and CAT monitors. Dead ECU;s can have good spark, as it is the #1 primary process i think.
I suspect the cam sensor is always monitored no matter what goes wrong, (power good)
unplug dizzy, spark dies, and the monitor must tell you the CMP is dead, or the ECU is just a brick.
it only take power on 2 pins to get an ECU to work. (not go to backup) works right,
ive removed the ecu vast times, and bench tested it.
see photos below.
the power pins, and CEL lamp 4 wires. and 1 Diag jumper to ground pin, 6 wires.
and it flashes every cat code in the book. ECT , IAT, TPS, map dead, all sensor open are spit out 1 after the other, never ending.
sounds like you need a good ecu from Cardone 1>? the can do R&R too, and all are tested 100%
the ECU links for bad 8v ECU.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU-8v.html
this shows every pin, what its function.
pin B11 tells ECu you are cranking this allows better fueling with overloaded batter.
pin B12 tells ECU if you are starting in gear or not, way bad to do so with remote starts. and good remote starts watch this pin like a hawk or get sued big time... does yours?
if B1 is hot (12v) and B2 is ground its good to go.
BTW2, the ohms dont help me, only volts under normal conditions works for me, ohms is done under NO load. and lies. (it has value, if infinity only)
pin A21 is good, the TPS is sending low throttle angles, perfect. 0 to 1v (about)
it must inject , if no , non 12, DTC are present. It must or the ECU is bad.
with the stipulation that the 3v pulse to the ignitor is good, and the ignitor fires, and makes full spark (yours does) and the pulse comming back is good, tachmeter, and no code 41./42/
if that happens the injections are going to flash the noid lamp.
see my 4 pages of FSM ECU pinouts and voltages. its horsed up with new ASE/SAE names, ECT, IAT, CMP, CKP. etc.
besides a bad compression gauge. (im ignoring it, if real the T-belt did slip)) and a box of bad ECu, we can fix this.
work Test 6 failing.
Test 6 is very common to fail. bad caps. and acid it leaks kills major power traces in the motherboard (main PC), and kills major functions on the ECU. very very common the acid deal..!@!!!
does all ECu have 5vdc on the 5vref pin? this is the first test on all ECU, if dead, the ECU is useless.
Ive never seen ANY ECU fail to report a dead TACHOMETER line, not ever. id not expect it to lie.
but yours is dead, test 6 fails so how could it report anything?, the monitor is vacationing in Cancun.
pulling sensors causes the input s to go to VCC, 5vdc, and must fail, 5v is an illegal input. and reports either open fail or too high voltage fail.
the ecu watches the coil if it don't see the spikes happen , say 10 out of 10 times, it will throws DTC. (good ECUs) book say 6 pulse rule. here.
keep in mind, dead ECUs have degrees of dead. no spark , no injection, or limphome, or backup mode.
my guess is yours is below backup. no injections, ever.
if all tests pass but injectors are dead, noid dead that means the injector driver transistors are dead. (1 or both) keep in mind lots of wrecking year smart guys blow up more 8v ECU than i can count, hot wiring a 1 ohm injectors.
now this... that sir is a DEAD ECU. dead as a door nail, as they say.
a good ecu will see ECT open ,even key on.
my guess is your ECU is in backup mode?
or the remote start is killing a critical voltage or signal to the ECU.
on the bench: no car needed to reject the DOA , ECU, not at all.
power wired up (ground too)
CEL wired
Diag pin grounded. jumper to ground.
must not flash code 12s, or its bad. ecu. must flash a code for all sensors disconnected, not 02. not spark yet and not CMP yet.
to get all codes to flash out, put a square wave in the CMP pin, then you get, no spark code. 41.
ive done this many a time...
below the NOID flashes, perfectly. I even have an INJECTOR dummy load to stress the INJECTOR DRIVER FULLY (i used to run major ATE )
I started with the 6 wires and worked up. The ECU monitors MUST OR the ECU is TOAST.
![[Image: bench-ecu-livew.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/bench-ecu-livew.jpg)
one more key 8v fact
the CMP can lie like a dog (time wise) (but makes prefect wave form (square) and the ECU will INJECT all day, as the above photo proves.
the ecu must believe the CMP, there is no CKP (crank) sensor to prove its a lying dog.
Injection rules
1: power (12vdc) good.
2: spark good.
3: TPS at 1v or lower, or near. good. 3v (or above is fail) all ball park, WOT cuts fuel , on all EFI cars.
4: no 41/42 allowed. (same as #2 really)
It must inject, you can make it do that on the bench. (no need to, but shows the truth of it)
the ECU does start the engine push stated in gear, with no starter signal. sure does.
so those pins can float.
Test 6 failure ,makes step 4 , DOA (blind)
my jeep, oh boy, like 10 things to stop injections... a small horror.
but this 8v is dirty dog simple.
note im even running a home made ignitor , and still i can fool the ECU. (back EMF signals)
custom ignitor and a dummy coil . i run this dummy coils so i dont get nailed with 50,000 volts, (im gun shy, hit 100s of times)
limphome does not kill monitors in fact the monitors CAUSE limphome to activate.
Backup mode is not documented by SUzuki, ( but on most cars, its a single chip the makes crude spark and fueling, as crude as one can imagine, it is)
to the tech's out there, it's like two 555 timers, synced up, and firing the coil and injector.(yes crude, and have a buddy that made one for fun)
simular to a monkey pouring fuel down then TB and a model A ford coil making spark. (does work can demo)
new post, (for your box of ECU;s)
say you do all tests, and test 6 passes on say 1 ECU, and caps are not RUBYCON, but newer.
so you have spark ! no 41/42 DTCs. allowed.
TPS 1v. (not 3v) (no TPS DTCs allowed)
and the noid is dead. (this dumb ECU has no injector monitor, its TONTO, stupid) dangme.
i connect up the noid direct to ecu pins, (it works ! flashes., the 2 wires to the engine bay are bad, cut)
it's dead, no NOID direct.
so, i replace both drivers, (no scope to see who is bad, so must shot gun the drivers)
bam , injections, done many, too many.
now you can retest all the other ECU , see they are dead. with one good one to compare.
50 is bad, on all 4 cylinder? ?????????????? no other things need checking
no injection problem i real but 50 is catastrophic bad,
my guess, is you didnt use wide open throttle? , and the poor engine was trying to suck 1600 CCs of air through the tiny air bleed idle hole (pencil eraser size) ?
Compression must be down W.O.T..
the worst compression is about 150. the EFI system can NOT operate with no injection, sure test fuel works, but the EFI CANT run with no air flow. it cant.
the ECU only can compensate for normal wear, and if you thought the rings were dry ( the were not) you could put 2 squirts of oil in the cylinder and if it went from 50 to 150 then the rings
are like paper thin, useless.... end of life on rings....
if it stayed at 50psi then the valves are gone.... keep in mind the test fuel test will run any lawn more engine with 50psi , my vw bug is 100 psi new. my motor cycle same. 1966
but EFI does not run total dead motors. , this is because the VE tuning tables do not go that low (full answer) what happens is it floods.
The 8v ECU just hates VE radial changes, all Speed density system do. MAF , systems love it. (16v)
with low compression the VE is all wrong.. volumetric Efficiency (ablilty to pump air) wrong. causing the MAP to lie, big time.
my guess is that not done WOT, or gauge is bad. very bad.
if all 4 are 50? the gauge is bad... ill skip this.....
Remote starts, it's not stock, and aftermarket RS are a wild card, (no 2 are the same, and no 2 installed same or correct,) after all it over-rides the primary ignition and start system of the EFI
and can cause the the ECU to go nuts. The ECU monitors all those signals. and must be connected correctly.
no problem, we leave it there and work the problem to the true cause. if the wiring is bad, so be it, we can find all bad wiring. Use a volt meter. not ohms.
(unplugging a remote start conn. in most cases can kill all starts) (if not a true parallel system (design)
case in point (in Texas, this is illegal) so mfg have to have all doors locked, to allow remote starts. if not it fails. (laws)
that tach diagram i made, it's very accurate to the point i stopped, the rev. engineering... the only key part there, are the huge BACK EMF induction spikes the ECU watches.
the tachmeter sure can short out its , input line and cause DTC 41 and not fueling for sure. disconnect the tachmeter, speedo head connector behind cluster, (sorry a pain that.)
Pin B (tps) is 100% OK.
i have not ever tried to put wrong signals on all pins of any 8v ECU, (have done so on all sensors. to may levels)
lets review them all.
first off is the start pin, after all the remote start might mess that up, id bet.
how ever, push starting my 8v starts car with the start pin false. 0v
BTW1 your ECU fails my test 6, (dead sensor tests)
BTW2 the ECT is located 4 places on 4 engines, 1.6 to 2.7L, so i link only to the finder page. but yes,, can make this better, thanks, !!
This dead test 6 means the ECU is not running the software (firmware) called Catastrophic monitors, the monitor is OUT TO LUNCH, that is a dead ECU. its in some deep backup mode.
that makes spark. the spark is a software sub process. as is fueling and CAT monitors. Dead ECU;s can have good spark, as it is the #1 primary process i think.
I suspect the cam sensor is always monitored no matter what goes wrong, (power good)
unplug dizzy, spark dies, and the monitor must tell you the CMP is dead, or the ECU is just a brick.
it only take power on 2 pins to get an ECU to work. (not go to backup) works right,
ive removed the ecu vast times, and bench tested it.
see photos below.
the power pins, and CEL lamp 4 wires. and 1 Diag jumper to ground pin, 6 wires.
and it flashes every cat code in the book. ECT , IAT, TPS, map dead, all sensor open are spit out 1 after the other, never ending.
sounds like you need a good ecu from Cardone 1>? the can do R&R too, and all are tested 100%
the ECU links for bad 8v ECU.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU-8v.html
this shows every pin, what its function.
pin B11 tells ECu you are cranking this allows better fueling with overloaded batter.
pin B12 tells ECU if you are starting in gear or not, way bad to do so with remote starts. and good remote starts watch this pin like a hawk or get sued big time... does yours?
if B1 is hot (12v) and B2 is ground its good to go.
BTW2, the ohms dont help me, only volts under normal conditions works for me, ohms is done under NO load. and lies. (it has value, if infinity only)
pin A21 is good, the TPS is sending low throttle angles, perfect. 0 to 1v (about)
it must inject , if no , non 12, DTC are present. It must or the ECU is bad.
with the stipulation that the 3v pulse to the ignitor is good, and the ignitor fires, and makes full spark (yours does) and the pulse comming back is good, tachmeter, and no code 41./42/
if that happens the injections are going to flash the noid lamp.
see my 4 pages of FSM ECU pinouts and voltages. its horsed up with new ASE/SAE names, ECT, IAT, CMP, CKP. etc.
besides a bad compression gauge. (im ignoring it, if real the T-belt did slip)) and a box of bad ECu, we can fix this.
work Test 6 failing.
Test 6 is very common to fail. bad caps. and acid it leaks kills major power traces in the motherboard (main PC), and kills major functions on the ECU. very very common the acid deal..!@!!!
does all ECu have 5vdc on the 5vref pin? this is the first test on all ECU, if dead, the ECU is useless.
Ive never seen ANY ECU fail to report a dead TACHOMETER line, not ever. id not expect it to lie.
but yours is dead, test 6 fails so how could it report anything?, the monitor is vacationing in Cancun.
pulling sensors causes the input s to go to VCC, 5vdc, and must fail, 5v is an illegal input. and reports either open fail or too high voltage fail.
the ecu watches the coil if it don't see the spikes happen , say 10 out of 10 times, it will throws DTC. (good ECUs) book say 6 pulse rule. here.
keep in mind, dead ECUs have degrees of dead. no spark , no injection, or limphome, or backup mode.
my guess is yours is below backup. no injections, ever.
if all tests pass but injectors are dead, noid dead that means the injector driver transistors are dead. (1 or both) keep in mind lots of wrecking year smart guys blow up more 8v ECU than i can count, hot wiring a 1 ohm injectors.
now this... that sir is a DEAD ECU. dead as a door nail, as they say.
Quote:with my ECT,IAT,& MAP disconnected no codes are registered with 10 sec of cranking
a good ecu will see ECT open ,even key on.
my guess is your ECU is in backup mode?
or the remote start is killing a critical voltage or signal to the ECU.
on the bench: no car needed to reject the DOA , ECU, not at all.
power wired up (ground too)
CEL wired
Diag pin grounded. jumper to ground.
must not flash code 12s, or its bad. ecu. must flash a code for all sensors disconnected, not 02. not spark yet and not CMP yet.
to get all codes to flash out, put a square wave in the CMP pin, then you get, no spark code. 41.
ive done this many a time...
below the NOID flashes, perfectly. I even have an INJECTOR dummy load to stress the INJECTOR DRIVER FULLY (i used to run major ATE )
I started with the 6 wires and worked up. The ECU monitors MUST OR the ECU is TOAST.
one more key 8v fact
the CMP can lie like a dog (time wise) (but makes prefect wave form (square) and the ECU will INJECT all day, as the above photo proves.
the ecu must believe the CMP, there is no CKP (crank) sensor to prove its a lying dog.
Injection rules
1: power (12vdc) good.
2: spark good.
3: TPS at 1v or lower, or near. good. 3v (or above is fail) all ball park, WOT cuts fuel , on all EFI cars.
4: no 41/42 allowed. (same as #2 really)
It must inject, you can make it do that on the bench. (no need to, but shows the truth of it)
the ECU does start the engine push stated in gear, with no starter signal. sure does.
so those pins can float.
Test 6 failure ,makes step 4 , DOA (blind)
my jeep, oh boy, like 10 things to stop injections... a small horror.
but this 8v is dirty dog simple.
note im even running a home made ignitor , and still i can fool the ECU. (back EMF signals)
custom ignitor and a dummy coil . i run this dummy coils so i dont get nailed with 50,000 volts, (im gun shy, hit 100s of times)
limphome does not kill monitors in fact the monitors CAUSE limphome to activate.
Backup mode is not documented by SUzuki, ( but on most cars, its a single chip the makes crude spark and fueling, as crude as one can imagine, it is)
to the tech's out there, it's like two 555 timers, synced up, and firing the coil and injector.(yes crude, and have a buddy that made one for fun)
simular to a monkey pouring fuel down then TB and a model A ford coil making spark. (does work can demo)
new post, (for your box of ECU;s)
say you do all tests, and test 6 passes on say 1 ECU, and caps are not RUBYCON, but newer.
so you have spark ! no 41/42 DTCs. allowed.
TPS 1v. (not 3v) (no TPS DTCs allowed)
and the noid is dead. (this dumb ECU has no injector monitor, its TONTO, stupid) dangme.
i connect up the noid direct to ecu pins, (it works ! flashes., the 2 wires to the engine bay are bad, cut)
it's dead, no NOID direct.
so, i replace both drivers, (no scope to see who is bad, so must shot gun the drivers)
bam , injections, done many, too many.
now you can retest all the other ECU , see they are dead. with one good one to compare.
http://www.fixkick.com