11-20-2019, 06:17 PM
todays information- then questions. fyi I'm getting paranoid that I'm destroying an engine I spent the last 2 years hunting down parts for.
old header was cracked, thrown out. new thorley header does have EGR port. looked extensively tonight at all vac hoses/connections, and header, all are connected correctly and don't see any leak points.
Scanner does freeze-frame when coded- freeze frame from today says:
DTC Code: P0400
Fuel System1 status: CL
Fuel System2 status: ... (not sure if this is applicable or not, but its listed in the frame)
Calculated LOAD Value: 19.6%
Engine Coolant Temp: 177f
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: -1.6%
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 1.6%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 8.7 inHg
Engine RPM: 2547
Vehicle Speed: 49mph
Doesn't say anything about EGR A or B. seems like something is missing.. you and me both.
I took multiple other snapshots tonight while driving and then arrived home basic info listed here. not sure if it will offer any insight but I'm at a loss on it. especially the low vac pressure:
DRIVING
SnapShot1:
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 0.8%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 15.6 inHg
Engine RPM: 3030
Vehicle Speed: 75mph
Ignition Timing Advance @Cylinder #1: 33.5degrees
Snapshot2:
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 1.6%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 12.9 inHg
Engine RPM: 2585
Vehicle Speed: 66mph
Ignition Timing Advance @Cylinder #1: 30.5degrees
Home, Idle hot1 (no accessories on):
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 2.3%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 8.1 inHg
Engine RPM: 787
Vehicle Speed: 0mph
Ignition Timing Advance @Cylinder #1: 10.0degrees
Home, Idle hot2 (no accessories on):
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 3.1%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 8.1 inHg
Engine RPM: 803
Vehicle Speed: 0mph
Ignition Timing Advance @Cylinder #1: 9.0degrees
To add to the confusion cold idle is now very high. Upon beginning of cold temps here it would run 1500(ish)rpm when cold, then settle right down when warm. Now running 2500-3000 cold, settles down as normal when warm. Simply a change I thought might add insight to this conundrum. Still doing newly revealed mild hiccup also, mostly at cold idle and also at barely open throttle- cruising.
I'll send pictures of engine bay tomorrow when sun is up.
My paranoia and lack of experience leaves me with these questions (in response to your check list) tonight:
1. Is is even possible for the engine to run as well as mind is with incorrectly timed cam? Been my daily driver since I got it all put back together in April. My assumption (very possibly wrong) is incorrectly timed cam would result in pretty dramatic loss of power and awful gas milage?
2. Upon more reading on the site today, says cam is timed at #4, but then in instructions for setting timing say to connect timing strobe to #1 SparkHV lead. Is that correct? I followed those instructions at original reassembly, so not questioning, just confirming to eliminate variables for my own piece of mind.
3. I'm just plain baffled. Trying to keep an eye on O2 graph readings while driving, both seem to be swinging as if working correctly, but I am sure no expert. Only time no swing is closed throttle while moving (hard deceleration) all O2 values drop to bottom until throttle is reopened. I'll download that info and post as soon as possible also.
4. Paranoia says I timed something wildly incorrectly, but its hard to believe that's the case as its capable of running stably, consistently, been my daily driver since the early spring, with no obvious signs of problems other than this CAT burnup ordeal.
Thank you for all of your input, knowledge and suggestions.
old header was cracked, thrown out. new thorley header does have EGR port. looked extensively tonight at all vac hoses/connections, and header, all are connected correctly and don't see any leak points.
Scanner does freeze-frame when coded- freeze frame from today says:
DTC Code: P0400
Fuel System1 status: CL
Fuel System2 status: ... (not sure if this is applicable or not, but its listed in the frame)
Calculated LOAD Value: 19.6%
Engine Coolant Temp: 177f
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: -1.6%
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 1.6%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 8.7 inHg
Engine RPM: 2547
Vehicle Speed: 49mph
Doesn't say anything about EGR A or B. seems like something is missing.. you and me both.
I took multiple other snapshots tonight while driving and then arrived home basic info listed here. not sure if it will offer any insight but I'm at a loss on it. especially the low vac pressure:
DRIVING
SnapShot1:
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 0.8%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 15.6 inHg
Engine RPM: 3030
Vehicle Speed: 75mph
Ignition Timing Advance @Cylinder #1: 33.5degrees
Snapshot2:
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 1.6%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 12.9 inHg
Engine RPM: 2585
Vehicle Speed: 66mph
Ignition Timing Advance @Cylinder #1: 30.5degrees
Home, Idle hot1 (no accessories on):
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 2.3%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 8.1 inHg
Engine RPM: 787
Vehicle Speed: 0mph
Ignition Timing Advance @Cylinder #1: 10.0degrees
Home, Idle hot2 (no accessories on):
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank1: 3.1%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 8.1 inHg
Engine RPM: 803
Vehicle Speed: 0mph
Ignition Timing Advance @Cylinder #1: 9.0degrees
To add to the confusion cold idle is now very high. Upon beginning of cold temps here it would run 1500(ish)rpm when cold, then settle right down when warm. Now running 2500-3000 cold, settles down as normal when warm. Simply a change I thought might add insight to this conundrum. Still doing newly revealed mild hiccup also, mostly at cold idle and also at barely open throttle- cruising.
I'll send pictures of engine bay tomorrow when sun is up.
My paranoia and lack of experience leaves me with these questions (in response to your check list) tonight:
1. Is is even possible for the engine to run as well as mind is with incorrectly timed cam? Been my daily driver since I got it all put back together in April. My assumption (very possibly wrong) is incorrectly timed cam would result in pretty dramatic loss of power and awful gas milage?
2. Upon more reading on the site today, says cam is timed at #4, but then in instructions for setting timing say to connect timing strobe to #1 SparkHV lead. Is that correct? I followed those instructions at original reassembly, so not questioning, just confirming to eliminate variables for my own piece of mind.
3. I'm just plain baffled. Trying to keep an eye on O2 graph readings while driving, both seem to be swinging as if working correctly, but I am sure no expert. Only time no swing is closed throttle while moving (hard deceleration) all O2 values drop to bottom until throttle is reopened. I'll download that info and post as soon as possible also.
4. Paranoia says I timed something wildly incorrectly, but its hard to believe that's the case as its capable of running stably, consistently, been my daily driver since the early spring, with no obvious signs of problems other than this CAT burnup ordeal.
Thank you for all of your input, knowledge and suggestions.