11-16-2019, 12:27 PM
(09-15-2019, 09:15 PM)fixkick Wrote:(09-15-2019, 10:37 AM)Akull Wrote: Hi, thanks for the prompt reply!
I was able to seal up my throttle body/thermal IAC
Still experiencing the issue where the idle drops and comes back from cold to hot engine.
So I guess its a bog on cold start?
Fuel pressure seems ok according to your tests. 40psi with key on, engine off, 34-36 psi with engine running hot.
Only thing that seems odd, is when the gas pedal is tapped, fuel pressure jumps to 60 and drops back down.
Does that seem normal?
Thanks again for any and all help!
that 60 is wrong , 60 is shunt pressure, with FPR, stuck closed. bad FPR, if 60 is real.
the key on pressure was 40 and that is normal and then at idle is 35 is ok.
but when you WOT the throttle, the pressure will go here 40 but not exactly, it will try to reach 40 on this car.
The 60 is only the shunt valve ,like when you block the return hose on the FPR.
Sounds like the FPR is bad. to me. (its sticking inside, does the vacuum port to it leak fuel if yes the FPR is bad.
here is mine at sea level 16valve engine. only. yours is 4psi higher, and that is ok. so 40 on your car would be max. for key on and WOT, (near) green in imperial measurement USA.
60psi is when the pump works in to a dead head, into a fuel line 100% pinched off or clogged. show the pump working nice sure. but FPR NOT. (spec max pressure is 43psi per FSM and is key on only spec)
Well, I fixed my idle drop. I still get a bog on cold start, and hesitation when going into first gear from a stop. I replaced the FPR, as well as the fuel filter. The 60psi jump is still there.
Would replacing the fuel pump strainer make a difference?
I would like to avoid replacing the fuel pump if it is unneccessary.
The car is OBD1, is there any way I can read the ECU logging?
Thanks again,
I Appreciate any help!