ok, the shaft is side held by those bussing, and yes, they are , nylon. (best guess)
there are springs inside, that break, this old, the shaft seems to last but never those bushings.
sure the TO bearing is captured in the yoke, on all cars STICK.
when you take it apart you will see all this and is not odd at all for any STICK (try an 88 jeep,something with coaxial hydraulic throwout bearing and cylinder all in one , (ouch)
the shaft only goes in one way, to align to the TOut #4.
the markes are all there, end of shaft and the lever. and must be aliened.
here are the steps, (clearing my head,2007 to now..... tick tick tick,,,,,
1: drop box bell as one to floor.
2: now, remove the Tout. bearing.
3: the shaft is now 100%free, only the bushings can stop you (spring detached right side, facing TOut)
4: the bushing on the left may need to be driving out first, I CAN not remember but do understand this is all normal here, no magic, just shaft held captive by the 5 things inside.
Take the lever off first, right side of bell clutch lever. then slide the shaft right (left facing bell) then see end of shaft drop from bell (left) {right facing it}
then the shaft slides right and out. facing. it. the lever off allows that last action.
this is not in the book because if you were looking at the bell now ,it be obvious they say.
the captive parts are clear,
2 bush.
1 spring.
1 lever.
1 , TOut bearing.
remove the last 3 above. then deal with 2 bushings last, if a bush needs to be pushed out (left or right do so) I can not remember if the bushings must pushed out but at that point in time if it dont fall out BINGO push time it is..... I should have done a video on it, I do remember it was, tiny bit tricky only that. 13 years ago..... I restored 3 kicks then. all are 5sp.
hope that helps you . good luck ! and happy trails.
btw . if on car fully together , if you try to move the shaft left and right , it will have free play, but not up and down that is bad BUSH.
The shaft is auto centered, by actions of the tight fit of the Tout bearing on the TRANNY snout end.
any play felt L/R would be the TOut fork tangs, or the TOout collapsing as all LOVE TO DO when Bad, 100k miles or more or drivers that right the clutch full time.
This is a WYSIWYG event, you drop the box and go, gee all is ok, or you see, omg, the PP cracked and sent flying metal chucks and wrecked the XYZ.(FATE WINS)
No man (mortal) can tell you what will be then, at the drop, your shop will tell you , more parts may be needed, and is NO LIE. what will be , WILL BE.
96-98 range, 95 older slightly different, for sure #7 is newer in 96. so if last guy used 95 trans in 96 again WYSIWYG )as are cables super different with lower rubber slip mount! 96+
![[Image: 25td8bE.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/25td8bE.jpg)
there are springs inside, that break, this old, the shaft seems to last but never those bushings.
sure the TO bearing is captured in the yoke, on all cars STICK.
when you take it apart you will see all this and is not odd at all for any STICK (try an 88 jeep,something with coaxial hydraulic throwout bearing and cylinder all in one , (ouch)
the shaft only goes in one way, to align to the TOut #4.
the markes are all there, end of shaft and the lever. and must be aliened.
here are the steps, (clearing my head,2007 to now..... tick tick tick,,,,,
1: drop box bell as one to floor.
2: now, remove the Tout. bearing.
3: the shaft is now 100%free, only the bushings can stop you (spring detached right side, facing TOut)
4: the bushing on the left may need to be driving out first, I CAN not remember but do understand this is all normal here, no magic, just shaft held captive by the 5 things inside.
Take the lever off first, right side of bell clutch lever. then slide the shaft right (left facing bell) then see end of shaft drop from bell (left) {right facing it}
then the shaft slides right and out. facing. it. the lever off allows that last action.
this is not in the book because if you were looking at the bell now ,it be obvious they say.
the captive parts are clear,
2 bush.
1 spring.
1 lever.
1 , TOut bearing.
remove the last 3 above. then deal with 2 bushings last, if a bush needs to be pushed out (left or right do so) I can not remember if the bushings must pushed out but at that point in time if it dont fall out BINGO push time it is..... I should have done a video on it, I do remember it was, tiny bit tricky only that. 13 years ago..... I restored 3 kicks then. all are 5sp.
hope that helps you . good luck ! and happy trails.
btw . if on car fully together , if you try to move the shaft left and right , it will have free play, but not up and down that is bad BUSH.
The shaft is auto centered, by actions of the tight fit of the Tout bearing on the TRANNY snout end.
any play felt L/R would be the TOut fork tangs, or the TOout collapsing as all LOVE TO DO when Bad, 100k miles or more or drivers that right the clutch full time.
This is a WYSIWYG event, you drop the box and go, gee all is ok, or you see, omg, the PP cracked and sent flying metal chucks and wrecked the XYZ.(FATE WINS)
No man (mortal) can tell you what will be then, at the drop, your shop will tell you , more parts may be needed, and is NO LIE. what will be , WILL BE.
96-98 range, 95 older slightly different, for sure #7 is newer in 96. so if last guy used 95 trans in 96 again WYSIWYG )as are cables super different with lower rubber slip mount! 96+
http://www.fixkick.com