Every word there is true, i read it and all true, and more. ( and for sure word and facts not told, after all we know nothing about your car, actually)
learn this first, we can't see or touch your car ever, then you ask in text box how to fix cars, blind, this most times never works after all we'd have to teach you 3 years of ASE classes in text box. but lets do add to the list , I will try to cover every why possible to fail, all that wiring and bad connector matter to.
Rule one, you can do to things, GUESS OR TEST. (Guessing can in fact fail but there are INSPECTIONS too , not done)
first of all this car is old and as all old cars do they fail and for vast reasons, (like corrosion , on electrics and grounds on this car sure, for sure)
next is we have no idea how many times changed out and what flasher is there, not a clue, seem not you either,?
and using a universal flasher is dumb right>? why put wrong parts in any car ? (don't) what you want is Suzuki parts (OEM) or top branded 3rd party parts, (not china clone crap)
lets do flasher school now. (ok>)
first learn there are many flasher technologies not just one, and some are dictated by LAWS.
One law in many countries is if a lamp goes dead or shorts, the flasher must do antics, flash fast, is common, too fast. this is the warning gee one lamp or all are failing to the driver.
the worse of all (old or cheap or universal are thermal blinkers) this stink to high heaven. and short lived. unlike mine.below. (they flash faster at higher loads (like trailer does)
these are brick stupid flashers, they heat up and flash using a Bi-METAL heater spring inside, NO RELAY INSIDE.
and go faster with any extra bulps added or wrong bulbs , so far you have yet to disclose to me all lamps connect and p'n 1156? and what flasher brand and p/n you have.
then there are simple electronic flashes with relay and electronics board that is not flashing by current flow at all, so if say you put trailer with 6 new blinker bulbs, it flashes at the same speed, and is even sold (ads) telling you works with huge tailers.... in fact...
from 1989up?
then there is the super smart flasher like hinted above call them DOT.GOV flashers that are legal. in USA for say your year car.
these must by law (not saying 1996 has this, im not reading 1million pages of gov law to find yours) but this flasher by law, in fact must change flash rates if any bulb is dead or shorted.
This tells the driver, 1 or more bulbs are dead. (a current sensing technology here)
that is a fact if you car has that flasher.
see , it is not simple at all , its not at all.
one good flasher is made by SMP
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS EFL8 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Intermotor (at rockauto)
then there is the magic of electronics and testing , (or just replacing bad parts, guessing, all new bulbs yet and new flasher , sure you didnt do that, so first leaving what, TESTING)
Done so when all parts are new, but we then find hacks some hidden deep in car, and hear hidden harnesses, found it with my meter.
I can and have done this, for sure after all new parts fail, sure. what else can I do. I must find it the hard way are you ready for hard?
I have this great tool., called a DMM , digital multi meter, and has the optional DC amp clamp device, that measures DC amperes, with out the need to CUT WIRE
no better tool on earth works r (well I do have current probe on my scope (lab) and one for spark too, but lets not go to $1000 tools yet)
just $35 tools ok?
I like to teach how to fish , not give the fish away, see? like the posters above, all they do is guess, but the inputs to them are wrong so what can they do?.
all we know is flasher is slow in some way.
slower that what IDK?. (and slower to begin(startup), or slow flash RATE or both?) IDK.????
but let me say, it is bad lets find it with 1 tool, ok?
my guess is bad flasher or wrong one used, endless this happens. and will never end,as long as flashers exist. (the PCM in my jeep does all flashing in SOFTWARE)< gen 4 ??
no LED bulbs in the blinker circuits of this car is GIVEN if you have that I GIVE UP, ok>> (and not legal with legal flasher)
at the flasher i measure 12vdc at key on,
here is mine as a simple example. 1995, this is not your flasher, there is no standard flasher or base pin outs ok no ASE or ISO spec, on this. ok? this is how to do the testing. ok>?
![[Image: blink-guts.jpg]](https://fixkick.com/look/blink-guts.jpg)
some flashers just like above have 4 pin and the forth only runs the cluster arrow lamps.(via COMBO switch pathes unique by years)
the car has 4(times) 1156 real bulbs no more no less and no liar bulbs LED claiming to be 1156 bulbs, that is a hard line lie that. ok? no LED bulbs here, OK?
the real bulbs each USE 2amps of current flow, 2.2a spec, so 2 blinking is 4 amps and hazard is 4x2 or 8 amps of current.
at the power pin above seen here you first read 12vdc keyon
the pin power shows 12v now and in hazard mode (its worst case so lets do only THAT testing, now)
if the voltage falls below 11vdc now , with hazards turned on that is bad lamps or wiring, means SHORTS.(aka overloads)
we need not guess, if you have the AMP clamp ,meter
on the blk pin ground the voltage at the flasher is 0vdc, flashing haz.
next with the amp clamp we measure the load green wire by clamping the amp clamp around the green wire and you see?
HAZards on , key on.
8amps this is good, so the flasher is bad if it blinks to fast or slow no matter what it does wrong it is bad, end of story, proved NOW. BINGO 1:
if say is 12 amps or more, you have wrong lamps or shorts in the 4 points in the system to here. lots of wire there, can short.(even bulbs can) try new bulbs yet?
if you saw say not 8amps but only 5a, that is wrong LAMPS or rusty pins, , or are rusting sockets or lamp pins bad or wiring end to end bad.rusty. INSPECTING Lamps and there pins and the socket for rust , most times on old cars BINGO rust happens,.
if the left or right blinker MODE (LEVER) are
not showing 4 amps let me guess this: examples.
2amps the lamps are wrong not 1156 or they are bad, or they are rusty pins end to end rust happens and lots of connectors end to end.
if not 4amps but say 6 or more amps, those are bad lamps wrong lamps or shorts in that feed, even in the BULB, 2ampe per bulb not 1amp not over say 2.5amps or 3.each.
if only left tests fail then the left is bad,(amps fail)
if only right fails the amps test then only right side is bad.
i can go farther on this, and test every node in the whole system for blinkers, but Ill stop here, and rest.
my amp clamp is here , not the dirty cheap AC type only, mine is DC, for cars.
Next up TOOLS then guessing:
https://www.newark.com/tenma/72-7224/mul...ct-product
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Multimeter...SwiolclaAT
fancy and nice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT210E-TR...SwAy9dTPnn
iNSPECTIONS WORK: (WRONG LAMPS WRONG FLASHER, RUSTY SOCKETS , BAD LAMPS, BAD WIRING AT LAMP)
NOW GUESSING LIST:
bad flasher
wrong bulbs
bad bulbs (either shorted or open happen , take that to the bank)
bad wiring
bad connections end to end all connectors end to end flash circuits,
rusty connections or even mangled in a wreck, we inspect all corners of cars for any sign of PAST wrecks (rusty means corrosion of any kind, copper- oxide "GREEN FUZZ"and the like)
trailer towing hacks all gone wrong, endless examples of this. (EVER LOOK BEHIND LEFT TAIL LAMP HOUSING FOR HACKS?)
bad combo switch (OMG EXPENSIVE and last) we can prove its bad with a voltmeter easy. if it is.
GOOD LUCK, NOW YOU HAVE AND ALMOST FULL LIST OF CAUSES. (AND HOW TO PROVE IT)
fixing CARS IS HANDS ON DEAL, Asking the blind for help has great limits. (if it was easy you'd not need help or a mechanic)\
learn this first, we can't see or touch your car ever, then you ask in text box how to fix cars, blind, this most times never works after all we'd have to teach you 3 years of ASE classes in text box. but lets do add to the list , I will try to cover every why possible to fail, all that wiring and bad connector matter to.
Rule one, you can do to things, GUESS OR TEST. (Guessing can in fact fail but there are INSPECTIONS too , not done)
first of all this car is old and as all old cars do they fail and for vast reasons, (like corrosion , on electrics and grounds on this car sure, for sure)
next is we have no idea how many times changed out and what flasher is there, not a clue, seem not you either,?
and using a universal flasher is dumb right>? why put wrong parts in any car ? (don't) what you want is Suzuki parts (OEM) or top branded 3rd party parts, (not china clone crap)
lets do flasher school now. (ok>)
first learn there are many flasher technologies not just one, and some are dictated by LAWS.
One law in many countries is if a lamp goes dead or shorts, the flasher must do antics, flash fast, is common, too fast. this is the warning gee one lamp or all are failing to the driver.
the worse of all (old or cheap or universal are thermal blinkers) this stink to high heaven. and short lived. unlike mine.below. (they flash faster at higher loads (like trailer does)
these are brick stupid flashers, they heat up and flash using a Bi-METAL heater spring inside, NO RELAY INSIDE.
and go faster with any extra bulps added or wrong bulbs , so far you have yet to disclose to me all lamps connect and p'n 1156? and what flasher brand and p/n you have.
then there are simple electronic flashes with relay and electronics board that is not flashing by current flow at all, so if say you put trailer with 6 new blinker bulbs, it flashes at the same speed, and is even sold (ads) telling you works with huge tailers.... in fact...
from 1989up?
then there is the super smart flasher like hinted above call them DOT.GOV flashers that are legal. in USA for say your year car.
these must by law (not saying 1996 has this, im not reading 1million pages of gov law to find yours) but this flasher by law, in fact must change flash rates if any bulb is dead or shorted.
This tells the driver, 1 or more bulbs are dead. (a current sensing technology here)
that is a fact if you car has that flasher.
see , it is not simple at all , its not at all.
one good flasher is made by SMP
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS EFL8 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Intermotor (at rockauto)
then there is the magic of electronics and testing , (or just replacing bad parts, guessing, all new bulbs yet and new flasher , sure you didnt do that, so first leaving what, TESTING)
Done so when all parts are new, but we then find hacks some hidden deep in car, and hear hidden harnesses, found it with my meter.
I can and have done this, for sure after all new parts fail, sure. what else can I do. I must find it the hard way are you ready for hard?
I have this great tool., called a DMM , digital multi meter, and has the optional DC amp clamp device, that measures DC amperes, with out the need to CUT WIRE
no better tool on earth works r (well I do have current probe on my scope (lab) and one for spark too, but lets not go to $1000 tools yet)
just $35 tools ok?
I like to teach how to fish , not give the fish away, see? like the posters above, all they do is guess, but the inputs to them are wrong so what can they do?.
all we know is flasher is slow in some way.
slower that what IDK?. (and slower to begin(startup), or slow flash RATE or both?) IDK.????
but let me say, it is bad lets find it with 1 tool, ok?
my guess is bad flasher or wrong one used, endless this happens. and will never end,as long as flashers exist. (the PCM in my jeep does all flashing in SOFTWARE)< gen 4 ??
no LED bulbs in the blinker circuits of this car is GIVEN if you have that I GIVE UP, ok>> (and not legal with legal flasher)
at the flasher i measure 12vdc at key on,
here is mine as a simple example. 1995, this is not your flasher, there is no standard flasher or base pin outs ok no ASE or ISO spec, on this. ok? this is how to do the testing. ok>?
some flashers just like above have 4 pin and the forth only runs the cluster arrow lamps.(via COMBO switch pathes unique by years)
the car has 4(times) 1156 real bulbs no more no less and no liar bulbs LED claiming to be 1156 bulbs, that is a hard line lie that. ok? no LED bulbs here, OK?
the real bulbs each USE 2amps of current flow, 2.2a spec, so 2 blinking is 4 amps and hazard is 4x2 or 8 amps of current.
at the power pin above seen here you first read 12vdc keyon
the pin power shows 12v now and in hazard mode (its worst case so lets do only THAT testing, now)
if the voltage falls below 11vdc now , with hazards turned on that is bad lamps or wiring, means SHORTS.(aka overloads)
we need not guess, if you have the AMP clamp ,meter
on the blk pin ground the voltage at the flasher is 0vdc, flashing haz.
next with the amp clamp we measure the load green wire by clamping the amp clamp around the green wire and you see?
HAZards on , key on.
8amps this is good, so the flasher is bad if it blinks to fast or slow no matter what it does wrong it is bad, end of story, proved NOW. BINGO 1:
if say is 12 amps or more, you have wrong lamps or shorts in the 4 points in the system to here. lots of wire there, can short.(even bulbs can) try new bulbs yet?
if you saw say not 8amps but only 5a, that is wrong LAMPS or rusty pins, , or are rusting sockets or lamp pins bad or wiring end to end bad.rusty. INSPECTING Lamps and there pins and the socket for rust , most times on old cars BINGO rust happens,.
if the left or right blinker MODE (LEVER) are
not showing 4 amps let me guess this: examples.
2amps the lamps are wrong not 1156 or they are bad, or they are rusty pins end to end rust happens and lots of connectors end to end.
if not 4amps but say 6 or more amps, those are bad lamps wrong lamps or shorts in that feed, even in the BULB, 2ampe per bulb not 1amp not over say 2.5amps or 3.each.
if only left tests fail then the left is bad,(amps fail)
if only right fails the amps test then only right side is bad.
i can go farther on this, and test every node in the whole system for blinkers, but Ill stop here, and rest.
my amp clamp is here , not the dirty cheap AC type only, mine is DC, for cars.
Next up TOOLS then guessing:
https://www.newark.com/tenma/72-7224/mul...ct-product
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Multimeter...SwiolclaAT
fancy and nice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT210E-TR...SwAy9dTPnn
iNSPECTIONS WORK: (WRONG LAMPS WRONG FLASHER, RUSTY SOCKETS , BAD LAMPS, BAD WIRING AT LAMP)
NOW GUESSING LIST:
bad flasher
wrong bulbs
bad bulbs (either shorted or open happen , take that to the bank)
bad wiring
bad connections end to end all connectors end to end flash circuits,
rusty connections or even mangled in a wreck, we inspect all corners of cars for any sign of PAST wrecks (rusty means corrosion of any kind, copper- oxide "GREEN FUZZ"and the like)
trailer towing hacks all gone wrong, endless examples of this. (EVER LOOK BEHIND LEFT TAIL LAMP HOUSING FOR HACKS?)
bad combo switch (OMG EXPENSIVE and last) we can prove its bad with a voltmeter easy. if it is.
GOOD LUCK, NOW YOU HAVE AND ALMOST FULL LIST OF CAUSES. (AND HOW TO PROVE IT)
fixing CARS IS HANDS ON DEAL, Asking the blind for help has great limits. (if it was easy you'd not need help or a mechanic)\
http://www.fixkick.com