"I bet you , your engine is not overheating the coolant. " 240 iis bad, but i see 250) we think now the ECT is prefect and matches J18 ECU perfectly and that we BELIEVE IT.
I said that NOT too clear, (my bad)
the fuel burn is not overheating the engine, the spark advance is correct as is fuel mix so there is no excess heat to the water jackets is what I meant.
and worse heat is up hill with 1000 lbs of bricks on board and 4 fat person seated.
be you cant do that now because the coolant is 250f many times, and 9 PSI from boil over, not good.
what is happening is :
1: thermostat is closing wrongly (pipe22 issues) and must not close for any reason ever that hot (means not holding 180F as all must do (spec stat)
2: coolant flows are restricted, (any where , but not the heater and is option that part, sold that why some are.) The FSM stats, "IF OPTED."
3: or rad too small, IDK.
or cant get air, how in the world can air be wrong at 70mph or near, even 50mph, it can't if all cores are empty of BUGS. AC core and RAD main.
what only we can dream is at 150f , can with xray eyes see if stat is closing or near full open too hot.
we can't do that. sadly. and is KEY to the riddle on any custom car like this.T
There is one extreme fix, like seen on race cars, adding a 2nd real ECT someway below the thermostat.
a welder could mount boss here, and a new ECT such that it does not hit back side of thermostat wax puck.
one other trick that can fail, is run car no thermostat at all, best case, is runs frigid. if overheats to 250f the flow is no good and or rad too small. (just short tests as CAT will pissed and like to burn up, and go red hot) a very tricky test, that most folks never do unless a custom car.
the main RAD FLIR cam test or manual with IR gun can also be good idea,parked and super hot engine.
The rear pump housing as spares are not easy to find.
![[Image: CDucdiT.png]](https://i.imgur.com/CDucdiT.png)
I said that NOT too clear, (my bad)
the fuel burn is not overheating the engine, the spark advance is correct as is fuel mix so there is no excess heat to the water jackets is what I meant.
and worse heat is up hill with 1000 lbs of bricks on board and 4 fat person seated.
be you cant do that now because the coolant is 250f many times, and 9 PSI from boil over, not good.
what is happening is :
1: thermostat is closing wrongly (pipe22 issues) and must not close for any reason ever that hot (means not holding 180F as all must do (spec stat)
2: coolant flows are restricted, (any where , but not the heater and is option that part, sold that why some are.) The FSM stats, "IF OPTED."
3: or rad too small, IDK.
or cant get air, how in the world can air be wrong at 70mph or near, even 50mph, it can't if all cores are empty of BUGS. AC core and RAD main.
what only we can dream is at 150f , can with xray eyes see if stat is closing or near full open too hot.
we can't do that. sadly. and is KEY to the riddle on any custom car like this.T
There is one extreme fix, like seen on race cars, adding a 2nd real ECT someway below the thermostat.
a welder could mount boss here, and a new ECT such that it does not hit back side of thermostat wax puck.
one other trick that can fail, is run car no thermostat at all, best case, is runs frigid. if overheats to 250f the flow is no good and or rad too small. (just short tests as CAT will pissed and like to burn up, and go red hot) a very tricky test, that most folks never do unless a custom car.
the main RAD FLIR cam test or manual with IR gun can also be good idea,parked and super hot engine.
The rear pump housing as spares are not easy to find.
http://www.fixkick.com