point #2 (very close points )
the 12psi rad cap + 50% AF, dictates boil over point, as low as 259F (varies a tad by maker of AF)
but we saw driving 250F hit and that is not good at all, only 9F from boil , not at all.
either hose 19 is missing clogged , or the RAD is not doing its job. (but which is it?)
The only way to prove this is to gain some how, the true temps behind the STAT, in that chamber there where pipe 22 lands.
they (SUZ) didn't make that easy, did they?. The G16 it's a freebee (ect right there), J18/23 a real pain.
some IR guns work way better than others. (as does longer period of idling hot, so that all parts can normalize, and be too hot)
but that 250f must land on stat WAX or it will fail., this is first. a first first thing, that must happen when at 250F.
if is not at 250f (when ECT IS) , we fix that first.
if is 250F (ect) lands at the STAT wax, then the STAT is 100% open NOW, at 250f and the RAD is failing (means weak flow, of water through it OR air over it failing)
is this rad new or used,
if used, do the IR gun trick measure each tube, 2inches from tanks, ends.
top and bottom (end to end the tube) I IR gun each tube an can see up to 50f drop end to end if any tube reads same on both ends the tube is clogged.
there is also a great camera trick for IR photos of the RAD to see cold tubes. an amazing thing to see, but the hand IR gun can do the same thing just takes 15min work.
if the RAD is new, then no need to check it.
is not air flow, the coolant temps too hot at 50 to 70mph so not fans full blame.
FLIR camera, hot tubes are very orange.
dead tubes dark.
normal on this race car, screens is there.
https://ivytools.files.wordpress.com/201...diator.png
let me see if i can find the bad one.
all the video, is best, a very bad rad, 10% left.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqOodFvHYDM
Duane is the older fellow here, and is master mech.... and a great speaker ! his library of videos are priceless.
the 12psi rad cap + 50% AF, dictates boil over point, as low as 259F (varies a tad by maker of AF)
but we saw driving 250F hit and that is not good at all, only 9F from boil , not at all.
either hose 19 is missing clogged , or the RAD is not doing its job. (but which is it?)
The only way to prove this is to gain some how, the true temps behind the STAT, in that chamber there where pipe 22 lands.
they (SUZ) didn't make that easy, did they?. The G16 it's a freebee (ect right there), J18/23 a real pain.
some IR guns work way better than others. (as does longer period of idling hot, so that all parts can normalize, and be too hot)
but that 250f must land on stat WAX or it will fail., this is first. a first first thing, that must happen when at 250F.
if is not at 250f (when ECT IS) , we fix that first.
if is 250F (ect) lands at the STAT wax, then the STAT is 100% open NOW, at 250f and the RAD is failing (means weak flow, of water through it OR air over it failing)
is this rad new or used,
if used, do the IR gun trick measure each tube, 2inches from tanks, ends.
top and bottom (end to end the tube) I IR gun each tube an can see up to 50f drop end to end if any tube reads same on both ends the tube is clogged.
there is also a great camera trick for IR photos of the RAD to see cold tubes. an amazing thing to see, but the hand IR gun can do the same thing just takes 15min work.
if the RAD is new, then no need to check it.
is not air flow, the coolant temps too hot at 50 to 70mph so not fans full blame.
FLIR camera, hot tubes are very orange.
dead tubes dark.
normal on this race car, screens is there.
https://ivytools.files.wordpress.com/201...diator.png
let me see if i can find the bad one.
all the video, is best, a very bad rad, 10% left.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqOodFvHYDM
Duane is the older fellow here, and is master mech.... and a great speaker ! his library of videos are priceless.
http://www.fixkick.com