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2.3 DOHC motor - correct operating temp
#39
(07-31-2019, 08:03 AM)thebanjoman Wrote:
(07-30-2019, 08:34 AM)thebanjoman Wrote:
(07-30-2019, 08:14 AM)thebanjoman Wrote:
(07-30-2019, 03:22 AM)fixkick Wrote:
(07-30-2019, 01:41 AM)thebanjoman Wrote: Dimensions. 

Aerio. 13.75 x 28.25 x 1. 388 cu in 
Sport.  16.75 x 19 x 1.  318 cu in

Diff 70 cu in 

These are outside diameter not actual volumes but yes the sport radiator is smaller by  about 20 percent.  Of course these are VERY rough estimates.  

I also guess I should find out the cfm rating of Aerio stock fan too.

There is room to have a thicker aluminum radiator made to Sport dimensions but I hope it doesn't come to that.
wow, lots or area in that Aerio,  388.
what  about a v6 grand vitara ,  I wonder what size it is.? H x L.

here is hoping a better ,  thermostat helps.....! cheers !


   OK   I went on Suzukicarparts.com  looking at details     This site lists SAME part for Aerio (j23) vs Sport (J18)   
   Rock-Auto also lists the SAME Thermosta
   Suzuki Car Parts

  1767065D00 - THERMOSTAT  Aerio
  1767065D00 - THERMOSTAT  Sidekick Sport
   
  Rock Auto

  STANT 14378 {#1767065D00}
  STANT 14378 {#1767065D00} 

  Stant Website lists for 2005 Aerio  (this is my year motor)  14378 . Same as Sidekick Sport. 

  So I will order a Stant 14378.  I took Car Quest's word for the thermostat that they gave me. 
  It DID fit but does it work the same??   I have no ideal.

  I'll get a Stant, put it in and retry my tests.

 The Denso 221-4801 Radiator that I have is a V6 Grand Vitara radiator.

I had a discussion over email with Brent At Trail Tough in Oregon..    He provided this information, which I need to read up more on. 
I did use the J23 fuel injectors on the motor.

Your radiator is sufficient. A Moto Rad #2319-180 thermostat will help.
The 1.8 fuel map is not correct for the 2.3 displacement. Lean fuel air
ratio. It will run OK but hotter temperatures would be expected.
Disconnecting the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator will
increase fuel pressure to help compensate for the incorrect management.

From what I am reading, It does make sense that lean fuel air ratio will make engine run hotter.

I'm going to try this in the shop and see what happens and check on the temps.

correct on PCM internal Fuel map,  but  consider these facts.
if the engine holds closed loop at idle and cruise at any speed, for sure the O2 is not a liar, nor is closed loop ever a lie ever, it is STOICH, not lean.
but when you advance your right foot or go WOT, Closed loop ends.

I say this to you so if you see 240f driving you ask your self, (and scanning and driving (2 persons safe)
you see 240 F , in closed loop , it for SURE IS NOT THE FUEL MAP. ever.

this engine also measures air flow.(MAF)  but the problem there is air  flow is converted to injection rates, and that is THE FUEL MAP job and that is wrong.
but if in closed loop, fuel trim corrects that error, if CL sets then its Stoich.
It is true the MAP is tuned 1st with Displacement of the engine,  and CR , compression ratio. then fine tuned on test track. (long hard way and good)
The 2.3L is like having a 5th 500cc cylinder, and is not trivial at all to the map, and the map is wrong, no lie.

removing the FPR vacuum only puts fuel pressure to  6PSI more and no more regulation will cause horrible flooding at all speeds, but WOT.
The 6psi will burn the CAT up in short time.  the CEL lamp blinks warning  you it is.
never do that , sure very short test to see if lean is cured, but gee your PCM not once showed lean code,s nor trim way off track.
you can even log trim data (LTFT) long only and drive to see if trim loses control.


the most easy cure if 240 only happens at OPEN LOOP and not told to me yet that is true,
is that you'd have to make vacuum correcting device to the FPR just just like turbo guys do....

a custom FPR does this, one can use the rising rate of TURBO boost FPR input to set in a fixed, voltage for 500 more cc's 
One could just watch trim at idle, and tune the FPR to a pressure that gets trim near zero.
then check it at WOT, and if off there compromise the setting, 

this is the most easy fix, up to 60PSI you have.

the fix if lean really happens WOT and/or only accelerating is a new FPR,  after all its only fraction of cost of custom ECU and programming and dyno turning.
http://www.fixkick.com
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RE: 2.3 DOHC motor - correct operating temp - by fixkick - 08-01-2019, 12:57 AM

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