Changing out heater hoses

[fixkick]

I need to find out how to replace the heater hoses on my 94 Tracker 8v with 3 speed A/T. One is leaking (probably in the intake hose). I wish to replace both of them.  I'm sure the intake manifold support plate must come out. Does anything else need to be removed. How hard of a job is this? Any and all advice, tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated.

not sure what you ask here,  Gates hose  comp. sells great hose for this car.
sold in most stores, Gates is a top seller,
the job depends you your skills and tools, and how big you are or how agile you are?
the one trick is never yank the hose on the CORE firewall side, we cut it if gently with very sharp knife, so as to put ZERO stress on the core, or 15hours labor swap a core.
ok?
the rest is all just hose basics,  top down or bottom up.
my bottom up would need me to remove the front 4wd factory skid plate or you cant do that.
the top down can be aided with manifold stiffener out. and ore pulling generator (battery minus cable pulled first or BOOM)
obvious the easy path to get your arm in there varies,   . #16/#18 end.

removal.: lacking olive oil , or xmen rubber man arms.
pull intake, and damage lots of hoses, sure.
or


things to remove are , charcoal Canister, Alternator , brace. the with these out, you can to the pump suction manifold.< this man. is bolted to side of engine block.
sure buy hoses first. why wait?
other tricks (there are few) only tilting Alternator for over to passenger side, fender.
doing some things from below.












the factory hose P/N are here (on my page below)

https://fixkick.com/t-belt/hosed.html

gates still makes em. ( here they are )
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzu...+pipe,6892



let me show the steps, ?
the front 2 clamps #18 at fire wall end ,both squeeze and slid back, then the end of hoses are cut with great care, then when cut,front to rear , I twist them to get them cracked free, and off those fragile core brass nipples.
that means we are 1/2 done, hose wise. (GO SLOW, here, even cut the hose 4 times to get it free of brass nipples, with no damage. (or 18+ hours  labor to replace a now bad core heater)
next the hard part. 
Canister out.
Alternator  out.
brace out. intake man below.
the last 2 #18 clamps are squeezed and slid  back.
the hard one obviously is hose 17 front.
the one you said hangs #16 in space is only the rear nipple of the main intake manifold take a flash light look at the hose, there, you see where it goes there in the back.
i even added a red dotted line showing the 8valve locations.  I made this drawing because no other books covers this, in detail. see all that  detail, even print it out?
the arrows show the direction so diagnosing problems gets more easy.
done,  with the pull,
not put back all new hoses,  and reverse your steps.
also bottom access helps get to the alternator below, to get it loosened up, for tilting or removal.  
jack stands work, no lift is needed.

this is 16valve engine G16B but access issue same.
the problem seen below clearly are this.
starter blocks bottom access. as does right engine mount
as does wide off set water pumpl
as does alternator and manifold base mount not seen below.
the nipple below left is TARGET hard #1
not withstanding intake manifold is the big hand arm blocker for sure.