07-23-2019, 10:53 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-24-2019, 01:07 AM by fixkick.
Edit Reason: details
)
let me do a list: lists can help.
DO only the A,B,C readings first. only on METAL ok> IR GUNS, take skills and metal is king. rubber fails.
rule one, you have 180 F thermostat, right?(yes) and the ECT must read that (shows up as coolant temps in toy scan tools) and is.
the purpose of the thermostat is pure regulation at 180f it it goes to 200 or more that means RAD went off line (lots of causes)
50% Antifreeze mix. !
12psi cap and for sure its gasket inside not CRACKED.
The pump impellers are not missing, even one missing.
the RAD must be sized for 2.3 liter engines. not less. ( engine waste 80% of the fuel energy value out the exhaust and the RAD all the time so the RAD must be big enough)
is the car missing heater core (no)
is the car missing stock fan, yes.
is the car missing hose bypass to TB throttle body warm up hose and cold start bypass so thermostat can work right before engine reaches 180f? this hose tickles the wax pellet at warmup.
how are the fans wired up, seems to me they be on all the time with 17 fan missing, how else, ? the only way to do fans right on this car lacking #17 and wanting quieter ? is to modulate the based on ECT readings if ECT goes above 190 they turn full on. or any time car is NOT MOVING and above 179F fans full on , (complex logic but you made this car)
modern cars have that logic and even turn on fans, while you stop , park ,key in pocket in 7/11 buying milk, and pop, and you hear the fans turn on while grabbing MILK off the shelf.
that is how they prevent overheating due to HOT SOAKED engines. (the heat up more parked from hot)
what are those other gauges you added.? and how added. how matters.
A bosch temp gauge , you said, but no URL web link to it nor how its sensor is connected, only to pipe1 matters !!!!!! direct and inline metal pipe fitting that injects the sensor directly to the water flow, no other ways will work, ever.
no statement of ECT readings moving fast ?; the answer is 180f only, higher like 190+ is bad.
RAD off line means (its failing or was humpty dumpty'd) and thermostat not bad , not in backwards and bleed hole must BE TOP, or air traps there ,bad bad that.
Test point A and B are way too hot.... B is cold side, and is key to proving RAD off line......
1: pump dead or weak , sure not dead but week if impeller blades missing or wrong pump used)
2: wrong sized RAD, not meeting or beating 2.3l engine sized rated
3: I wont say air in the loop , you burped it Im sure 10 times,
4:fans too weak or somehow slow or not controlled correctly (a toggle switched fans would be very bad idea with NO #17 fan) #17 turns 1600 rpm at idle so , that is your goal that, air flow and is NOT TRIVIAL at all. (suzuki does not spec CFM on THIS #17 fan, at hot idle. so can not tell you)
what makes the fans go now, IVE NO CLUE.?
one trick of the trade , I guess not possible now, is in the old days we can have the RAD shop added more cores. (soldered in at WALTS , the good ol' days)
today plastic aluminum RADs no way to do that.
so you buy thicker higher rated RAD, for find one for 2.5L engine that fits? bigger means L,W and depth (deeper is more core tubes !)
or higher CMF fans,
ask a guy that runs TURBO where to get and size a RAD, they know or blow the engine up at 2x stock HP. easy.
and yes, I agree, panic, if ECT reads wrong, 180f is correct. for sure moving fast or worse up hills
try to know that the car will pull a 1000lb dead weight up a tall hill WOT, on 120F day and not overheat this is a design goal.
so if you fail, going to 7/11 store the engine has no Future.
https://imgur.com/a/zOg7oHQ
DO only the A,B,C readings first. only on METAL ok> IR GUNS, take skills and metal is king. rubber fails.
rule one, you have 180 F thermostat, right?(yes) and the ECT must read that (shows up as coolant temps in toy scan tools) and is.
the purpose of the thermostat is pure regulation at 180f it it goes to 200 or more that means RAD went off line (lots of causes)
50% Antifreeze mix. !
12psi cap and for sure its gasket inside not CRACKED.
The pump impellers are not missing, even one missing.
the RAD must be sized for 2.3 liter engines. not less. ( engine waste 80% of the fuel energy value out the exhaust and the RAD all the time so the RAD must be big enough)
is the car missing heater core (no)
is the car missing stock fan, yes.
is the car missing hose bypass to TB throttle body warm up hose and cold start bypass so thermostat can work right before engine reaches 180f? this hose tickles the wax pellet at warmup.
how are the fans wired up, seems to me they be on all the time with 17 fan missing, how else, ? the only way to do fans right on this car lacking #17 and wanting quieter ? is to modulate the based on ECT readings if ECT goes above 190 they turn full on. or any time car is NOT MOVING and above 179F fans full on , (complex logic but you made this car)
modern cars have that logic and even turn on fans, while you stop , park ,key in pocket in 7/11 buying milk, and pop, and you hear the fans turn on while grabbing MILK off the shelf.
that is how they prevent overheating due to HOT SOAKED engines. (the heat up more parked from hot)
what are those other gauges you added.? and how added. how matters.
A bosch temp gauge , you said, but no URL web link to it nor how its sensor is connected, only to pipe1 matters !!!!!! direct and inline metal pipe fitting that injects the sensor directly to the water flow, no other ways will work, ever.
no statement of ECT readings moving fast ?; the answer is 180f only, higher like 190+ is bad.
RAD off line means (its failing or was humpty dumpty'd) and thermostat not bad , not in backwards and bleed hole must BE TOP, or air traps there ,bad bad that.
Test point A and B are way too hot.... B is cold side, and is key to proving RAD off line......
1: pump dead or weak , sure not dead but week if impeller blades missing or wrong pump used)
2: wrong sized RAD, not meeting or beating 2.3l engine sized rated
3: I wont say air in the loop , you burped it Im sure 10 times,
4:fans too weak or somehow slow or not controlled correctly (a toggle switched fans would be very bad idea with NO #17 fan) #17 turns 1600 rpm at idle so , that is your goal that, air flow and is NOT TRIVIAL at all. (suzuki does not spec CFM on THIS #17 fan, at hot idle. so can not tell you)
what makes the fans go now, IVE NO CLUE.?
one trick of the trade , I guess not possible now, is in the old days we can have the RAD shop added more cores. (soldered in at WALTS , the good ol' days)
today plastic aluminum RADs no way to do that.
so you buy thicker higher rated RAD, for find one for 2.5L engine that fits? bigger means L,W and depth (deeper is more core tubes !)
or higher CMF fans,
ask a guy that runs TURBO where to get and size a RAD, they know or blow the engine up at 2x stock HP. easy.
and yes, I agree, panic, if ECT reads wrong, 180f is correct. for sure moving fast or worse up hills
try to know that the car will pull a 1000lb dead weight up a tall hill WOT, on 120F day and not overheat this is a design goal.
so if you fail, going to 7/11 store the engine has no Future.
https://imgur.com/a/zOg7oHQ
http://www.fixkick.com