2.3 DOHC motor - correct operating temp

[fixkick]

why not make a diagram of YOUR custom car and show arrows and letters A,B,C and temps seen at each point and METHOD. then we can talk intelligently. (im 71yo)

the 3 key temperature points are
A= ECT housing, scanned with real scan tool and IR gun,  180 might show 175 with gun,as it always reads a tad cooler (heat sinking effects) the ECT IS #1 !!!!!!!!!!!!
B: = housing 13 ,cold water input to THEMOSTAT,  note the queer reverse flow>?
C: = 22,  this key pipe sends hot hot water 180f to the base of the thermostat wax pellet, if not flowing the thermostat surges !!!!!!!

The idea of running an engine at idle at a stop light at 220-240 degrees (where?with what tool)with fans running is absolutely terrifying to me.  260f i the boil point of 50AF at 12PSI.
ever hold the water pump in hand at the build and not see this>?
https://fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/electrolysis1.jpg

you are running 50% right?
 and the cap is new, not bad. so that 12PSI to 14 happens RIGHT?
lots  of parts can be wrong.




I am used to engine temps lower than this (welcome to EFI engines) and everything I have experienced over the  years tells me to expect overheating and damage.
why say that, what matter is only this engine, not other engines or other cars,  this cars and millions like it are 200f cars at the ECT. (good/bad/ugly and not CUSTOM)
each time you post a number like 240 you always leave out the OBD2 ECT reading, why?  I need that .


I've put too much effort, money,  and time into swapping in the new motor to destroy it by not setting up an adequate cooling system so I wanted more measurements and not just a simple needle in the main gauge cluster.  (factory cluster) {or custom clusters water ,oil psi, volts|}? try to be specific each time what gauge eyes land on, ok?

Engine swaps are never easy for sure thermal issues, and I will post more on that below, lots more, and is not trivial the the thermodynamics here.


 when I saw them on the APP and ODB2 scanner, to me that something had to be wrong and inaccurate.  THAT IS THE ECT !  I can scan that car with 10 tools and 10 computers.
all read 180f with 180f stat.
No mention of how the fans work (auto , manual or  some funky sensor setup and relay controlled fans?)  the fans need to be on all the time now what the FACTORY #17 fans is now MISSING, surely I can not guess what any custom setup is until you document it,  nor can any shop do that on any custom car, lacking such facts.

software,  why not use a second OBD2 scan tool even a hand held tool, not some lame APP:  a real tool that a shop uses?  why trust  any 1 tool,  for sure cell phone APP< that?

So if these temps reported by the app are normal (I've looked all over the Internet and didn't find anything really on normal operating temps of the J series motor) 
why would you look at internet data,  all you will see is lies, due to bad cooling systems and not custom like yours,  Id never do that, I see PHYSICS, to find problems.
they sell themostats at 160, 170, 180 ,193, 195 and 200f (the last one in USA is EFA mandated, 180f on old
The ECT must read 200f on your car.


if the engine is too hot at test point A: ECT shows not 180 but 200 +
that means the thermostat is bad, or the pump not flowing or the fans are too week or the core of the RAD is UNDERSIzed (thermal dynamics answer not we rumors)
the engine is not lean, the engine CEL is not glowing for flashing and the scan tool shows CLOSED LOOP STATUS and not DTC stored or pendiing
if you see the thermostat lose control (ect proof only) then that  means B is failing , if B does not show proper coolant 50%AF thermal drop  near 50% drop if engine gets too hot. then the coolant flow is too low (pump blades missing) or rad to small or the fans too week.
TEST POINT B is super important,  this is the COLD INPUT< an must not BE OVERHEATED.


old dog to old dog, us !  cheers.

So I took some measurements with an IR thermometer right after I got home at idle and I was seeing close to 220 temps near the sensor at the back of the motor  ECT?

but still getting 190 at the gauge near the flex hose near the radiator (top hose, ? rubber hose at RAD TOP, ? IR gunning rubber is not accurate )
why measure rubber with pipe #1 is metal, i see #1 in your photo why not measure that. but really is same as ECT after all #1 is ECT output flow,  so is same, !

 and read 187 with the IR,    Measurements down the tube got lower as I moved forward. (I do not understand this at all what down tube use numbers or make your  own drawing?


I didn't expect to see a 30 temp drop along the tube but it was there.  (where is there ) and IR guns do not measure water only the material point at, so is not water(coolant)
measure only METAL ok?  the down tube guess you meant, cold water from bottom of RAD to the #13 thermostat cap, why not measure only #13 here?  aluminum never rubber.

In the past when I have installed these gauges(web link to them missing) they have been right at the exit of the motor near the thermostat on old GM Iron by tapping into the thermostat housing, this method can't apply here.  (you still did not read my reverse flow statement , and your old cars were not reverse flow.
so does not apply is right, for SURE, only the ECT is the right spot , and is why the ENGINEER PUT IT THERE<ON PURPOSE by DESIGN.
in fact if the ECT loses control (seems so) then the RAD IS NOT WORKING (why remains,,,,)

I have a 2nd tube????? from the old 1.8 motor and I may put a bung on it at the back near the coolant temp and install it to get a more accurate reading with the gauge I have. It's fairly accurate but I see now my placement is off for a proper reading.  you do not need more gauges.  why ?
stop reading rubber,  x10.

So this as a learning event and It'll take me a bit to get over the terror of these temps and understand it.
260f it terror.
if the test point B: is too high the RAD is out of control,  
use A, B, C readings, first ,  and only metal, ok.