the real issues, i think? are not the 200f mark on a dial but you do have 3 gauges, now. The coolant overheats at 270F so you have plenty of margin there, just like new cars.
1: OBD2, the scan tool, ECT (is this sensor new?) (show me your data here, only (this is best here and is why OBD2 uses it here)
2: AutoMeter, and its sensor in the place of AC overheat sensor.
3: IR Gun. can be pointed and vast things related, at any time. and will never match ,the sensors, readings, at best 10f lower, or more.(outside a part runs cooler than inside one)
the issues NOT that they disagree to each other(as they will) but that there is wild variance at say #1 why not use the #1 OBD2 , as your source of accurate data, as the ECU surely does.
the thermostat must not be upside down (wax pellet down)
the thermostat must have the bleed hole point to the front (up hill is front for engine inclination)
the Thermostat must have the rubber ring gasket and newer the paper gasket, (what is a steely , IDK)? if using no RUBBER Ring the thermostat floats up and down and the temps surge. is the intake manifold really 1996? >>>> https://fixkick.com/All-Pdfs/TSB/16v-STAT-bung1.pdf
The the issue here is not absolute readings (200f) but sure, thermal surge right? if yes, then that is the thermostat surging if using the ECT sensor as your Guide.
The ECT is located in the base chamber of the Thermostat. part 23 not missing.
My IR gun shows top rad tank 20 degrees hotter than bottom (after long 20 mile drive) showing that the RAD is working.
The worst place to measure engine temp is part ID 20, this is uncontrolled there! , the best place is at ECT below number 3.
The best place for inline hose sensors is #10 (again regulated controlled point)
![[Image: 16v-water-paths2w.JPG]](https://fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/16v-water-paths2w.JPG)
1: OBD2, the scan tool, ECT (is this sensor new?) (show me your data here, only (this is best here and is why OBD2 uses it here)
2: AutoMeter, and its sensor in the place of AC overheat sensor.
3: IR Gun. can be pointed and vast things related, at any time. and will never match ,the sensors, readings, at best 10f lower, or more.(outside a part runs cooler than inside one)
the issues NOT that they disagree to each other(as they will) but that there is wild variance at say #1 why not use the #1 OBD2 , as your source of accurate data, as the ECU surely does.
the thermostat must not be upside down (wax pellet down)
the thermostat must have the bleed hole point to the front (up hill is front for engine inclination)
the Thermostat must have the rubber ring gasket and newer the paper gasket, (what is a steely , IDK)? if using no RUBBER Ring the thermostat floats up and down and the temps surge. is the intake manifold really 1996? >>>> https://fixkick.com/All-Pdfs/TSB/16v-STAT-bung1.pdf
The the issue here is not absolute readings (200f) but sure, thermal surge right? if yes, then that is the thermostat surging if using the ECT sensor as your Guide.
The ECT is located in the base chamber of the Thermostat. part 23 not missing.
My IR gun shows top rad tank 20 degrees hotter than bottom (after long 20 mile drive) showing that the RAD is working.
The worst place to measure engine temp is part ID 20, this is uncontrolled there! , the best place is at ECT below number 3.
The best place for inline hose sensors is #10 (again regulated controlled point)
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