07-07-2019, 04:12 PM
(07-07-2019, 03:39 PM)Thank you for your response! Everything under the hood/mechanically is all stock. engine rebuild was to stock. plus added a "clicky starter" solenoid unit.EVERYTHING Inside the cab- not stock.New steely water inlet pipe and seal. No leaking but it could be sucking air in? Fan and clutch new, belt tensions good.Sensor for gauge is in place of the original AC sensor directly next to stock sensor position. 50/50 coolant for sure. Gauges are all AutoMeter Cobalt same build/specs as the Procomp series in your picture just different aesthetic.No pinging, no loss of power, no overflow purge. possibly I\m just paranoid which is why I came back here for more info, so thank you!I have an inline hose sensor mount (as you described) extra sitting around so I may get a second water temp gauge and see if the 2 play well together. ISC clean and working fine (tested today) IAC I will dig at in the next few days.Thank you again! Wrote:(07-07-2019, 06:00 AM)fixkick Wrote: in the stock car all that matter is the cheap stock thermal gauge is not flying or land H.... that is all there is stock.
here is mine
rock solid even with back full of bricks and springs collapsed on a hot day. no matter what solid, once at normal temp.
if say the hot normal engine shows 180f or what is normal for your car. IDK
and no rhyme nor reason temps fluctuate say parked. wildly surging temps?.
what can cause this?
the o-ring behind the water pump sucking air , or that silly steel pipe same rusty end.? front? making o-ring can't seal even new ring, rust pits happen here. this old sure.
or the clutch fan went nuts? or belt slip to it (is pump belt)
the thermostat tries to prevent all this but do know that if air bubbles land on either temp sensor (wet) ect or coolant main (or your whatever it is) the sensor will lie its ass off.
due to fact that bubbles are air and not water, so it fails.
I know you burped it, but if the pump sucks air it fills with air in seconds. and the sensor is up high, very high.