first off removing the maf, instantly puts the ecu in limphome mode and full maf simulations, making diagnosis doing that super hard. ( and with late retarded spark timing and very rich mixtures, gee its only to make it home with dead maf, ok?)
that is not a valid diagnostic test but does seem to show spark is ok. kinda. ? but then again some ebay clone china mafs are pure TRAsh and prove NOTHING. I got to tell you I start with basics, (compression, vacuum,spark timing then..)
the maf is good, as you learned at great expense? if a real maf and not fake are 2nd used dead one? (most costly sensor on the car, OUCH !)
welcome , 92 16v.
the engine has no power that is the only symptom.?
so what causes that, well lots of things,....
compression is 180PSI (wot, wide open throttle ) if all 4 are at 70 psi (or way low) the cam belt slipped or the CAT is melted blocking the exhaust near 100%)
that is one easy test, no? or inspect cam timing. (also easy , type sneak a peak in my search box, fixkick.com
next is fuel pressure at key on and it idle and then gunning the throttle , 3 test here, to prove the FPR works.
on this car 16v only the pressure fuel, increases as you increase throttle and vacuum drops.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/16...ess95W.jpg
the keyon only pressure is near the WOT pressure, due to near same vucuum.
also is does power return with gas cap off or loose???? wrong or bad cap cause huge vacuum in the fuel tank. even collapsing it, badly. (my pump page shows one collapsed)
(i can only assume no gross misfiring, as spark is king, cant burn fuel with bad spark ever. not with full power)
but your maf tests (limphome) proved spark must be ok..
1: engine cant pump air, melted cat.
2; engine compression low x4, cam belt slipped as all do ignored and run pas 60k miles.
3: fuel pressures wrong.
4: bad fueL, but gee runs better with maf missing.
5: spark bad, or timed wrong, but again ran ok maf gone.
id say off hand #3 but driving it and testing is a human and machine experience, that only works best.
that is not a valid diagnostic test but does seem to show spark is ok. kinda. ? but then again some ebay clone china mafs are pure TRAsh and prove NOTHING. I got to tell you I start with basics, (compression, vacuum,spark timing then..)
the maf is good, as you learned at great expense? if a real maf and not fake are 2nd used dead one? (most costly sensor on the car, OUCH !)
welcome , 92 16v.
the engine has no power that is the only symptom.?
so what causes that, well lots of things,....
compression is 180PSI (wot, wide open throttle ) if all 4 are at 70 psi (or way low) the cam belt slipped or the CAT is melted blocking the exhaust near 100%)
that is one easy test, no? or inspect cam timing. (also easy , type sneak a peak in my search box, fixkick.com
next is fuel pressure at key on and it idle and then gunning the throttle , 3 test here, to prove the FPR works.
on this car 16v only the pressure fuel, increases as you increase throttle and vacuum drops.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/16...ess95W.jpg
the keyon only pressure is near the WOT pressure, due to near same vucuum.
also is does power return with gas cap off or loose???? wrong or bad cap cause huge vacuum in the fuel tank. even collapsing it, badly. (my pump page shows one collapsed)
(i can only assume no gross misfiring, as spark is king, cant burn fuel with bad spark ever. not with full power)
but your maf tests (limphome) proved spark must be ok..
1: engine cant pump air, melted cat.
2; engine compression low x4, cam belt slipped as all do ignored and run pas 60k miles.
3: fuel pressures wrong.
4: bad fueL, but gee runs better with maf missing.
5: spark bad, or timed wrong, but again ran ok maf gone.
id say off hand #3 but driving it and testing is a human and machine experience, that only works best.
http://www.fixkick.com