03-16-2019, 12:25 AM
no it is not ECU
no its is not bad spark
yes timed wrong, for sure , why is only the question.
not using crap china rotors (C4) that fit on 3 ways are you?, well BOSCH sells them that do not ,as does SUZUKI forever. (a form of Chaos nobody on earth deserves here)_!!!
not too rare today, most mechanics never seen a distributor car, for 20 years, or just forgot. happens, DIS for 20 years now most cars, have DIS, (no dizzy , only 4 coil packs)
he has it timed wrong, and the cam if first NEVER THE DISTRIBUTOR FIRST.
what he failed to do is check compression first. 160PSI at sealevel WOT. (this tells a pro mechanic the engine he just worked over big time is not a mess, it is a audit of your work)
My 91' 8 valve, pulls 155 psi. WOT (dead cold at 72F) and more warm/hot. 155 is sealevel are you?
that proves mostly that he put the cam timing correct.(and lash)
did he check top end oiling first, so you don't burn a 2nd cam up to death? be like #1 on my list give your history, no? i do top oil tests before the fuel pump relay is even ever plugged in.
just cranking it, for top in oiling and the 0.050" head orifice not clogged, test. this is.......
the 11pm is just refr. point not a rule or fact to use, ever, and can be timed in 4 places and run ok , not just 11pm, (harness willing to stretch that far)
on new car 11pm is correct, but not if timed other 3 ways. OK, do you follow this logical fact? just like a old v8 engine same facts.
the other fact unlike some V8s the distriburor has gear drive not and OFFSET key slot, that the later only fits 1 way ever, but the gear is 13 ways, it can be timed, and wrong 12/13.
ok? why is the 12 ways wrong of 13, well the timing slot in the base outside clamp has only very very limited range, so installing any distributor on any pre 1999, G16 must be done correctly.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/8v-procedure.html
the rotor turns clock wise, for sure,!!! if you dont believe me crank at and watch the rotor, see? CW turns.
i cover all the ways to do it right and wrong here, best I can.
here for you I will do the acid test, (install) (acid test means all factors consider, nothing missing)
1: crank key not wrecked, did you inspect that first? and set it to 94 foot/lbs and the TSB directs ?
1b: crank cog marker at 12pm, mark on oil pump casing,
2: the cam wheel has 60a spoke key mare (#4tdc mark) is now at 6pm (6pm means #1 firing) we could time the distributor to #4 firing (i can) but lets to this by the book so you can TRACK)
3: at this moment, the valve lash on #1 is loose, if not the cam it timed wrong or using "I" marks wrongly and not "MARK" both key and rim marks. must "E" marks.
3b: if you cam is timed wright and lash is wrong then the mech failed to set lash at step 2, new timing belt. i have a page on that.
4: now with distributor in hand (TDC 0 degree's at crank mark pulley, we drop the distributor and say to selves, we will get the 13 tooth gear right now.
5: as you drop the dizzy, it wants to move the rotor so with your hand on the rotor head at 11pm (book way) we
5b: keep repeating this by moving the rotor to a (the gear is spiral cut) so that you antisiapate the gear travel and land the rotor at 11 pm.
sound hard but is NOT. just repeat the drop say 3 time ahhh 11pm just like the day it left CAMI or Awata japan and not the books that talk about this MATCH . (real books not fake like chiltons)
now clamp the distributor bolt down.
next the wires, the cap only fits 1 way so , is not ever wrong.
off my 8v timing page. linked above/.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/t-belt2w.jpg
last is fine (after 4 jugs fire) fine tuniong spark.
with the timing freeze jumper planted in the DLC, I bet he never seen that too. or?
be sad if using C4 (cheap china communist crap) rotors,. a real bloody shame.
knockoffs can suck. tis a fact. and do.
no its is not bad spark
yes timed wrong, for sure , why is only the question.
not using crap china rotors (C4) that fit on 3 ways are you?, well BOSCH sells them that do not ,as does SUZUKI forever. (a form of Chaos nobody on earth deserves here)_!!!
not too rare today, most mechanics never seen a distributor car, for 20 years, or just forgot. happens, DIS for 20 years now most cars, have DIS, (no dizzy , only 4 coil packs)
he has it timed wrong, and the cam if first NEVER THE DISTRIBUTOR FIRST.
what he failed to do is check compression first. 160PSI at sealevel WOT. (this tells a pro mechanic the engine he just worked over big time is not a mess, it is a audit of your work)
My 91' 8 valve, pulls 155 psi. WOT (dead cold at 72F) and more warm/hot. 155 is sealevel are you?
that proves mostly that he put the cam timing correct.(and lash)
did he check top end oiling first, so you don't burn a 2nd cam up to death? be like #1 on my list give your history, no? i do top oil tests before the fuel pump relay is even ever plugged in.
just cranking it, for top in oiling and the 0.050" head orifice not clogged, test. this is.......
the 11pm is just refr. point not a rule or fact to use, ever, and can be timed in 4 places and run ok , not just 11pm, (harness willing to stretch that far)
on new car 11pm is correct, but not if timed other 3 ways. OK, do you follow this logical fact? just like a old v8 engine same facts.
the other fact unlike some V8s the distriburor has gear drive not and OFFSET key slot, that the later only fits 1 way ever, but the gear is 13 ways, it can be timed, and wrong 12/13.
ok? why is the 12 ways wrong of 13, well the timing slot in the base outside clamp has only very very limited range, so installing any distributor on any pre 1999, G16 must be done correctly.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/8v-procedure.html
the rotor turns clock wise, for sure,!!! if you dont believe me crank at and watch the rotor, see? CW turns.
i cover all the ways to do it right and wrong here, best I can.
here for you I will do the acid test, (install) (acid test means all factors consider, nothing missing)
1: crank key not wrecked, did you inspect that first? and set it to 94 foot/lbs and the TSB directs ?
1b: crank cog marker at 12pm, mark on oil pump casing,
2: the cam wheel has 60a spoke key mare (#4tdc mark) is now at 6pm (6pm means #1 firing) we could time the distributor to #4 firing (i can) but lets to this by the book so you can TRACK)
3: at this moment, the valve lash on #1 is loose, if not the cam it timed wrong or using "I" marks wrongly and not "MARK" both key and rim marks. must "E" marks.
3b: if you cam is timed wright and lash is wrong then the mech failed to set lash at step 2, new timing belt. i have a page on that.
4: now with distributor in hand (TDC 0 degree's at crank mark pulley, we drop the distributor and say to selves, we will get the 13 tooth gear right now.
5: as you drop the dizzy, it wants to move the rotor so with your hand on the rotor head at 11pm (book way) we
5b: keep repeating this by moving the rotor to a (the gear is spiral cut) so that you antisiapate the gear travel and land the rotor at 11 pm.
sound hard but is NOT. just repeat the drop say 3 time ahhh 11pm just like the day it left CAMI or Awata japan and not the books that talk about this MATCH . (real books not fake like chiltons)
now clamp the distributor bolt down.
next the wires, the cap only fits 1 way so , is not ever wrong.
off my 8v timing page. linked above/.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/t-belt2w.jpg
last is fine (after 4 jugs fire) fine tuniong spark.
with the timing freeze jumper planted in the DLC, I bet he never seen that too. or?
be sad if using C4 (cheap china communist crap) rotors,. a real bloody shame.
knockoffs can suck. tis a fact. and do.
http://www.fixkick.com