02-04-2019, 11:08 PM
G16B engine 16valves, no history. (please tell a bit , ok?)
you had the head off, why? (new rebuilt head by pro shop or?)
was the oil filter removed? (on any engine, that has seen lots of work for sure drained oil , and filter removed its best to prime the pump first run.)
HOW:?
remove filter, and FILL the filter full of 10w-30 oil and pan full of oil to top of dipstick. Put filter back quickly to avoid too much spilling.
then crank it with sparks out, and WOT, (block open throttle tad) so the engine can breath, and get max 300 rpm cranking speed, easy (saves battery strain)
WOT = wide open throttle in this case even 1/2 throttle is plenty (the engine is an air pump and vacuum pump)
Next:
fuel pump relay out, pulled below ECU, greens socket, relay, to stop fuel flow. (safety) (relay moved to right side heater box in 1996 USA)
No year car stated, so...................
now crank for 5 , seconds, stop 1min, repeat 5sec, 1min, , say 3 times, and check for top end oiling. if no flow of oil do not start/run the engine.
TOP end fails:
check for oil pressure if there is no top end oil, this is all standard practices on any shop that rebuilds engines. (or goes bankrupt fast)
it only takes 1 tiny bit of junk to land in that tiny 50 thousands inch inch head orifice.
This is why not using RTV sealants in this engine is so wise. (yes the pan is RTV sealed in Iwata japan new. but under very careful steps.)
one cause of RTV contamination is (rtv gluing is say) down some old leaking valve cover gasket and a bit of this crap lands in the pan, and the sucked through the oil pump. and past a clogged up oil filter and bam, lands in the head, or far far far worse any bearing shell, mains or rods.
yes a good shop has oil pressure gauge, the pressure is regulated by the small reg on left front of oil pump at about 50 psi.
if the pump primes? this is the normal cold pressure., if all bearings in the engine or ok, this normal pressure, cold and hot is less but we are NOT HOT yet.
more reasons or zero pressure and no top end oiling
the pan /pump screen is clogged up.(gung on screen packed)
the pump is bad, or the regulator stuck wide open bypassing all or most of the pump output, (a bad pump)
some or all bearing shot, in mains or rods or many at once. (this is why oil pressure is so important to check on any engine)
the pump oil pickup and screen fell off and landed in bottom of pan or 1/2 off dangling , leaking air and sucking air causing pump to not pump oil.
the pump screen assembly has an oil ring, if missing or cracked, sucks AIR and the pump stalls, dead. will not pump oil if air is sucked first.
hot oil pressure running at idle 800 is about 20PSI and increases as you increase RPM at throttle. 10w-30 oil, (standard oil spec oil)
hope this helps you, good luck to you too@!!!!
you had the head off, why? (new rebuilt head by pro shop or?)
was the oil filter removed? (on any engine, that has seen lots of work for sure drained oil , and filter removed its best to prime the pump first run.)
HOW:?
remove filter, and FILL the filter full of 10w-30 oil and pan full of oil to top of dipstick. Put filter back quickly to avoid too much spilling.
then crank it with sparks out, and WOT, (block open throttle tad) so the engine can breath, and get max 300 rpm cranking speed, easy (saves battery strain)
WOT = wide open throttle in this case even 1/2 throttle is plenty (the engine is an air pump and vacuum pump)
Next:
fuel pump relay out, pulled below ECU, greens socket, relay, to stop fuel flow. (safety) (relay moved to right side heater box in 1996 USA)
No year car stated, so...................
now crank for 5 , seconds, stop 1min, repeat 5sec, 1min, , say 3 times, and check for top end oiling. if no flow of oil do not start/run the engine.
TOP end fails:
check for oil pressure if there is no top end oil, this is all standard practices on any shop that rebuilds engines. (or goes bankrupt fast)
it only takes 1 tiny bit of junk to land in that tiny 50 thousands inch inch head orifice.
This is why not using RTV sealants in this engine is so wise. (yes the pan is RTV sealed in Iwata japan new. but under very careful steps.)
one cause of RTV contamination is (rtv gluing is say) down some old leaking valve cover gasket and a bit of this crap lands in the pan, and the sucked through the oil pump. and past a clogged up oil filter and bam, lands in the head, or far far far worse any bearing shell, mains or rods.
yes a good shop has oil pressure gauge, the pressure is regulated by the small reg on left front of oil pump at about 50 psi.
if the pump primes? this is the normal cold pressure., if all bearings in the engine or ok, this normal pressure, cold and hot is less but we are NOT HOT yet.
(02-04-2019, 12:50 PM)Samistine Wrote: I bought an oil pressure gauge and will check tomorrow. I poked the oil gallery with a small pin and didn’t feel any blockage when assembling. I’m thinking i just need to crank it a bit longer? Car hasn’t run in 1-2 months.
more reasons or zero pressure and no top end oiling
the pan /pump screen is clogged up.(gung on screen packed)
the pump is bad, or the regulator stuck wide open bypassing all or most of the pump output, (a bad pump)
some or all bearing shot, in mains or rods or many at once. (this is why oil pressure is so important to check on any engine)
the pump oil pickup and screen fell off and landed in bottom of pan or 1/2 off dangling , leaking air and sucking air causing pump to not pump oil.
the pump screen assembly has an oil ring, if missing or cracked, sucks AIR and the pump stalls, dead. will not pump oil if air is sucked first.
hot oil pressure running at idle 800 is about 20PSI and increases as you increase RPM at throttle. 10w-30 oil, (standard oil spec oil)
hope this helps you, good luck to you too@!!!!
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