01-30-2019, 10:31 AM
my building a G16 page covers this, with proof from the factor at suzuki. then historical.
no, standard means stock base sized, (with sub sized color codes0
then large sizes,(ground cranks,) they grind it until its perfectly round, and stop at the first over size.
there are 2 bearngs classes.
Historical way:
real suzuki bearings from suzuki, and very old subsizes. (pistons and rods bearings too)_
why because they are very crudely gang ground all mains at 1 time.
Picture in your mind, 4 grinding wheels, and all 4 are not same size, (close but not close to equal or right)
the parts are measured by a team ,to measure all parts and color code then for later, (gee it does work) but wow ,what crude.
My guess is the balance the crank latter with the 4 odd sized pistons.
enter sub size color codes.'
now 25 years later, those engines are not made. ( FAR AWAY IS SOUTH AMERICA OR?)
and are only landing in a very modern machine shopS unlike above above but humans with very great skills and tooling (crank grinder polisher)
the old cranks (no more new, or if like $2000 cost sure) the old crank has 8 places to be wrong, not counting end play, and wobble is reject.
what do they do, the measure in at least 16 places and for wobble. 90degrees apart.
if it fails, it is useless crank (hot liquid metal spray is NOT worth this car)
the mAN then says out load, this crank can be ground the next over sized bearing then does so and is 100% perfect and polished and radius ground.
Using non suzuki parts, if you hand those suzuki parts now he'd pull his hair out.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html
They even may magneflux it first. for cracks no human can see until now.
same story engine bored,
in the factory gang bored crude as H3LL, BUT CUSTOM PISTON CODES (SUB CODES) TO FIT THE LIL SHOP OF HORRORS.
Then 25 years later, the shop bores it super perfection, and now magic color coded sub sizes as seen on top deck side ,1,2,2,1 codes.
those old codes are useless now, you have new non suzuki made pistons now. (cam ground oval new precision made pistons)
see?
in fact those top made pistons have a data sheet with the kit, how to precision bore and hone those old cylinders.
the bore man bore to the data sheet, exactly
after all has no idea at all the thermal dynamic heat effects on this new secret alloy piston. (lots exist some are very strong)
he knows all about, heating the block and torque plate for sure on RICE motors or thin wall USA v6/8 SMOG engines (trash)
some might say, sorry due that the RACE option the Premium option.
I've no idea at all what is in your engine before or after or in your kit.
not at all.
nor all those measurements,
what I did on one is buy a new 100% reground crank to perfect under sizes on all journals and EQUAL
on others ive got super huge crank grinding shop in town, 1/3 cost of above.
if the crank is not straight or the line bores are off the oil pumping dynamics fail inside the bearing,per link above.
That is why its best to do it right, but if not car is good from grandma's trip to church 1 day weak, never near 6000 rpm
cheers and good luck..
and mixing factory parts with modern is no good. (sure grind cranks x8 sure bore hone block) but use new parts.
see engine also with one new piston
and one new rod journal ground an fit to new shells.
fun to see,but do?
no, standard means stock base sized, (with sub sized color codes0
then large sizes,(ground cranks,) they grind it until its perfectly round, and stop at the first over size.
there are 2 bearngs classes.
Historical way:
real suzuki bearings from suzuki, and very old subsizes. (pistons and rods bearings too)_
why because they are very crudely gang ground all mains at 1 time.
Picture in your mind, 4 grinding wheels, and all 4 are not same size, (close but not close to equal or right)
the parts are measured by a team ,to measure all parts and color code then for later, (gee it does work) but wow ,what crude.
My guess is the balance the crank latter with the 4 odd sized pistons.
enter sub size color codes.'
now 25 years later, those engines are not made. ( FAR AWAY IS SOUTH AMERICA OR?)
and are only landing in a very modern machine shopS unlike above above but humans with very great skills and tooling (crank grinder polisher)
the old cranks (no more new, or if like $2000 cost sure) the old crank has 8 places to be wrong, not counting end play, and wobble is reject.
what do they do, the measure in at least 16 places and for wobble. 90degrees apart.
if it fails, it is useless crank (hot liquid metal spray is NOT worth this car)
the mAN then says out load, this crank can be ground the next over sized bearing then does so and is 100% perfect and polished and radius ground.
Using non suzuki parts, if you hand those suzuki parts now he'd pull his hair out.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html
They even may magneflux it first. for cracks no human can see until now.
same story engine bored,
in the factory gang bored crude as H3LL, BUT CUSTOM PISTON CODES (SUB CODES) TO FIT THE LIL SHOP OF HORRORS.
Then 25 years later, the shop bores it super perfection, and now magic color coded sub sizes as seen on top deck side ,1,2,2,1 codes.
those old codes are useless now, you have new non suzuki made pistons now. (cam ground oval new precision made pistons)
see?
in fact those top made pistons have a data sheet with the kit, how to precision bore and hone those old cylinders.
the bore man bore to the data sheet, exactly
after all has no idea at all the thermal dynamic heat effects on this new secret alloy piston. (lots exist some are very strong)
he knows all about, heating the block and torque plate for sure on RICE motors or thin wall USA v6/8 SMOG engines (trash)
some might say, sorry due that the RACE option the Premium option.
I've no idea at all what is in your engine before or after or in your kit.
not at all.
nor all those measurements,
what I did on one is buy a new 100% reground crank to perfect under sizes on all journals and EQUAL
on others ive got super huge crank grinding shop in town, 1/3 cost of above.
if the crank is not straight or the line bores are off the oil pumping dynamics fail inside the bearing,per link above.
That is why its best to do it right, but if not car is good from grandma's trip to church 1 day weak, never near 6000 rpm
cheers and good luck..
and mixing factory parts with modern is no good. (sure grind cranks x8 sure bore hone block) but use new parts.
see engine also with one new piston
and one new rod journal ground an fit to new shells.
fun to see,but do?
(01-30-2019, 09:29 AM)Nunapitchuk Wrote: Also, as I am shopping around I am finding that there are "standard" main bearings for the g16a. Not three different standards or color codes, just one standard size available. So far, I have not even found the dimensions of the "standard" bearings. There should be three standard sizes, right?
Where do you buy main bearings?
http://www.fixkick.com