Sorry the snap on fuel pressure gauge reads 40 psi ( idling hot????) and then when you pull off FPR nipple, the(NO) vacuum it reads 50psi (50 is WRONG )
(why leave off the fac t that key on pressure was 50,? why)
The coolant temperature is reading correctly via my obd2 scanner. ( is it to hard to say I see scan tool shows 180F? and holds there?)
If the header was cracked I would think the o2 sensor would read on the lower end and not stuck at 0.9 volts (true but your first post stated, (0.09v) and was typo sending me in the wrong direction.0
and I can watch the short term fuel try to minus fuel while in closed loo till it gets past 20-25% and then go into open loop. At that time the scanner message says open loop due to insufficient temp.
avoid short term trim, this changes faster that humans can see, oK
use only LONG TERM FUEL TRIM and win! says a tech, editing this.
I have a used ECU coming tomorrow wish me luck and if not I will be prepared for more testing. (if does same thing)
(why leave off the fac t that key on pressure was 50,? why)
The coolant temperature is reading correctly via my obd2 scanner. ( is it to hard to say I see scan tool shows 180F? and holds there?)
If the header was cracked I would think the o2 sensor would read on the lower end and not stuck at 0.9 volts (true but your first post stated, (0.09v) and was typo sending me in the wrong direction.0
and I can watch the short term fuel try to minus fuel while in closed loo till it gets past 20-25% and then go into open loop. At that time the scanner message says open loop due to insufficient temp.
avoid short term trim, this changes faster that humans can see, oK
use only LONG TERM FUEL TRIM and win! says a tech, editing this.
I have a used ECU coming tomorrow wish me luck and if not I will be prepared for more testing. (if does same thing)