that bent rod was a seized crank bearing (ran on no oil or tons if antifreeze in said oil, that is how my 97 came, from young woman that didnt know water can freeze and boom)
engine 1 and 2, is engine 2:>suspiciously similar ? means it was WET too?
and wet with what, oil or antifreeze green water? or soaking in raw fuel?
that is ok, 3/4 confusion.... so easy to do. later
Below is some tests using the leakdown tool, but what I call hiss testing.
yes leak down. #4 tool placed in this spark hole, (the offending cylinder) http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html#leakdown
Do not forget to listen for leak sources.
using a hose to your ear under pressure. (14mm outside diameter hose, so it will fit spark plug holes)
hear hissing in these locations:
#4 at TDC cranked locked there. firing here (rotor on #4 distrib cap off) see valves shut #4, with felt lash loose #4
Hiss test:1: hose placed in.
#3 spark hole hisses (looking for a head gasket leak #4 to 3. or other odd cracks in head)
Hiss test:2:
o2 sensor pulled out listen in that O2 bung hole, for exhaust valve leakings. #4 under pressure, valves bad here.
Hiss test:3:
listen in dip stick tube, top , dip out. hiss? (you will hear hiss here, and is normal ring leakage, but is a very quiet hiss)
the trick is to compare all 4 cylinders under test, see if one hisses way louder than the other 3. (say #4 does, and has collapsed rings carbon stuck)
Lets say #4 cylinder has wall damage. below the rings (picture that in your mind)
so unlock the crank from TDC and ...
( turn the (CW) crank slowly TDC downward the (power stoke) and see if dip tub hisses (MORE) as piston goes down now. cracked
cylinder wall... or warped, or damaged in some way below rings at TDC, this can find bad cylinders not just at TDC, but must be done on the power stock.
under full pressure with the leak down tool.
last hiss test:4:
open throttle valve , and listen there, past the TV butterfly plate (bad valves intake) #4 in this case.
finding a hiss can be a joy, saving lots of head scratching.... good luck !@
as you can see the tool not only shows, #4 leaks real bad (say it does) but now you can hear where that air is going.
there are 2 rebuild classes on engines:
1: the hone and pray. (and throw in STD sized rings)
2: bore and hone and new pistons and rings. (crank shaft grind and bearings too, if the tests fail on it.)
the #1 is very hard to do right, i'd have to use inside mike readings on in 6 places on each cylinder, at the top below the wear ridge.
then 1/2 way down from TDC, and at the bottom where the end of swept ring area is clearly seen. 90degrees apart each reading, (2+2+2)
if the valves on #4 do not leak, then the cylinder walls are not fitting well to the rings.
if wet means antifreeze green seen that is a whole other matter,
(cracks or bad head gasket caused by not milling head, or deck flat or clone gasket crap from china (no name gaskets sets) or warped head or deck.
in s real machine shop the block and head are pressure tested, for cracks, some can be very hidden. so not doing this can be a travesty.
the 16v head has 3? freeze plugs on top of head, and if rusted, and leaks, antifreeze lands in the pan. seen this on 16v.
suspiciously similar ? mean wet? too>?
engine 1 and 2, is engine 2:>suspiciously similar ? means it was WET too?
and wet with what, oil or antifreeze green water? or soaking in raw fuel?
that is ok, 3/4 confusion.... so easy to do. later
Below is some tests using the leakdown tool, but what I call hiss testing.
yes leak down. #4 tool placed in this spark hole, (the offending cylinder) http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html#leakdown
Do not forget to listen for leak sources.
using a hose to your ear under pressure. (14mm outside diameter hose, so it will fit spark plug holes)
hear hissing in these locations:
#4 at TDC cranked locked there. firing here (rotor on #4 distrib cap off) see valves shut #4, with felt lash loose #4
Hiss test:1: hose placed in.
#3 spark hole hisses (looking for a head gasket leak #4 to 3. or other odd cracks in head)
Hiss test:2:
o2 sensor pulled out listen in that O2 bung hole, for exhaust valve leakings. #4 under pressure, valves bad here.
Hiss test:3:
listen in dip stick tube, top , dip out. hiss? (you will hear hiss here, and is normal ring leakage, but is a very quiet hiss)
the trick is to compare all 4 cylinders under test, see if one hisses way louder than the other 3. (say #4 does, and has collapsed rings carbon stuck)
Lets say #4 cylinder has wall damage. below the rings (picture that in your mind)
so unlock the crank from TDC and ...
( turn the (CW) crank slowly TDC downward the (power stoke) and see if dip tub hisses (MORE) as piston goes down now. cracked
cylinder wall... or warped, or damaged in some way below rings at TDC, this can find bad cylinders not just at TDC, but must be done on the power stock.
under full pressure with the leak down tool.
last hiss test:4:
open throttle valve , and listen there, past the TV butterfly plate (bad valves intake) #4 in this case.
finding a hiss can be a joy, saving lots of head scratching.... good luck !@
as you can see the tool not only shows, #4 leaks real bad (say it does) but now you can hear where that air is going.
there are 2 rebuild classes on engines:
1: the hone and pray. (and throw in STD sized rings)
2: bore and hone and new pistons and rings. (crank shaft grind and bearings too, if the tests fail on it.)
the #1 is very hard to do right, i'd have to use inside mike readings on in 6 places on each cylinder, at the top below the wear ridge.
then 1/2 way down from TDC, and at the bottom where the end of swept ring area is clearly seen. 90degrees apart each reading, (2+2+2)
if the valves on #4 do not leak, then the cylinder walls are not fitting well to the rings.
if wet means antifreeze green seen that is a whole other matter,
(cracks or bad head gasket caused by not milling head, or deck flat or clone gasket crap from china (no name gaskets sets) or warped head or deck.
in s real machine shop the block and head are pressure tested, for cracks, some can be very hidden. so not doing this can be a travesty.
the 16v head has 3? freeze plugs on top of head, and if rusted, and leaks, antifreeze lands in the pan. seen this on 16v.
suspiciously similar ? mean wet? too>?
http://www.fixkick.com