And... as if I didn't have enough to do already, I decided to drop my rusty old oil pan before it got so bad that it perforated, and repaint it with black engine enamel which can withstand the block heat and oil/gas/chemicals. Once the tranny and flywheel are out it is much easier to get at the oil pan.
I horribly underestimated how much work this would be since it required removing the front diff and involved a ton of prep work to sand, degrease, remove RTV from the pan and the bottom of the block. I also thoroughly cleaned each pan bolt and bolt hole thread in the block with brake cleaner and q-tips so the blue loctite would bond properly.
SUGGESTION: If you are going to drop the pan, let the engine drip/drain at least overnight before removing it. A couple of days is better to let most of the block oil to drip out.
I used a new Felpro gasket (only for 95's and earlier) and used a light bead of RTV on both sides of the cork gasket to help ensure I never have to redo the job due to an oil pan leak.
Blue loctite to the bolt threads. 7ft/lbs torque.
I horribly underestimated how much work this would be since it required removing the front diff and involved a ton of prep work to sand, degrease, remove RTV from the pan and the bottom of the block. I also thoroughly cleaned each pan bolt and bolt hole thread in the block with brake cleaner and q-tips so the blue loctite would bond properly.
SUGGESTION: If you are going to drop the pan, let the engine drip/drain at least overnight before removing it. A couple of days is better to let most of the block oil to drip out.
I used a new Felpro gasket (only for 95's and earlier) and used a light bead of RTV on both sides of the cork gasket to help ensure I never have to redo the job due to an oil pan leak.
Blue loctite to the bolt threads. 7ft/lbs torque.