Rear crank seal removed and replaced (SKF 26749). This seal was very tight to re & re. It took using a large punch and hammer to get it out. There is no flange on the aluminum housing so you can punch it out from either side. However, the shape of the seal makes it easier to use the punch from the outside (or flywheel side) to punch it (inward).
I used a piece of black ABS plumbing pipe and a rubber mallet to punch the new seal back in. I also ran a light coat of Marine grease around the inner ring of the seal where the crank is constantly turning and rubbing against the seal. I wouldn't suggest putting any lubricant around the outside of the seal. Although it would make pressing the new seal in to the housing easier, it might allow the seal to migrate out once the block gets warm.
Bolt holes in the block and the bolts were cleaned thoroughly with Q-tips and brake cleaner. Bolt threads dressed with Loctite Blue gel and RTV applied as the new gasket. Note two longer bolts which go into bottom holes. Also ensure that the two metal bushings on these holes are seated up to the flange on the housing. I used a vice very carefully to press them and there should be about 1/8" of bushing that will project into the block holes. I found them to be very tight to press in and would NOT have wanted to use the bolts (in aluminum threads) to act as the "press" when tightening up on reinstall.
![[Image: 2192_10_10_18_11_16_51.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/2192_10_10_18_11_16_51.jpeg)
BTW I REALLY like the loctite GEL. Less messy, doesn't drip, and one stripe of it along one side of the bolt threads is plenty. Bit hard to find in most stores for some reason (Canada)
I used a piece of black ABS plumbing pipe and a rubber mallet to punch the new seal back in. I also ran a light coat of Marine grease around the inner ring of the seal where the crank is constantly turning and rubbing against the seal. I wouldn't suggest putting any lubricant around the outside of the seal. Although it would make pressing the new seal in to the housing easier, it might allow the seal to migrate out once the block gets warm.
Bolt holes in the block and the bolts were cleaned thoroughly with Q-tips and brake cleaner. Bolt threads dressed with Loctite Blue gel and RTV applied as the new gasket. Note two longer bolts which go into bottom holes. Also ensure that the two metal bushings on these holes are seated up to the flange on the housing. I used a vice very carefully to press them and there should be about 1/8" of bushing that will project into the block holes. I found them to be very tight to press in and would NOT have wanted to use the bolts (in aluminum threads) to act as the "press" when tightening up on reinstall.
BTW I REALLY like the loctite GEL. Less messy, doesn't drip, and one stripe of it along one side of the bolt threads is plenty. Bit hard to find in most stores for some reason (Canada)