one more comment. (how to save time and labor by working smarter)
i get the engine back , it's on a pallet.
i attach my 5sp bell housing to the engine, then starter, then with battery on ground or in car, use jumper cables and crank the engine (yes full oil in engine)
The DECK test, this is not INSTALLED !!!
I crank it, until oil pressure (a tool gage on side of left block , sender out)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_53.html
i crank for full 55 PSI pressure, that is step #1, if that fails, back this dirty piggy goes to the schlock builder. (he fails to test his engines I BET YOU and is schlock shop, if yes, is.) 50 is ok too, 10w-30 oil not 0w , ok?
passes. say if not, then any or all bearings are shot..!!@!!! or pump regulator stuck open and is BAD !
test ,# 2
I get PSI near above, good ! even cranking for 5 full seconds wait 1min crank again, do not overheat any starter, ok?
test 2. pull valve cover, and crank until i see oil flow , if not?, then tell the builder no top end oil flow, he failed, (head 0.050" bottom left orifice clogged, or gasket wrong. If not top end flow the cam seizes driving around the block what a tragedy that.
Ok top end test passes ....
test 3: compression test on the pallet , spark plugs out, throttle blocked open or TB missing.
passes say 180PSI , sealevel , tell me altitude I tell you this number.
now install the engine, i just saved you 10+ hour or more hard labor by doing the job right first. above.
a top builder has build sheet attached to the engine
at the end are test 1,2,3 above with data.
and test 4 on super pro builder with long warranty (top clue there), the dyno test, or engine run in test stand test. amazing no, they test it before shipping it.
end facts on engine builds.
i get the engine back , it's on a pallet.
i attach my 5sp bell housing to the engine, then starter, then with battery on ground or in car, use jumper cables and crank the engine (yes full oil in engine)
The DECK test, this is not INSTALLED !!!
I crank it, until oil pressure (a tool gage on side of left block , sender out)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_53.html
i crank for full 55 PSI pressure, that is step #1, if that fails, back this dirty piggy goes to the schlock builder. (he fails to test his engines I BET YOU and is schlock shop, if yes, is.) 50 is ok too, 10w-30 oil not 0w , ok?
passes. say if not, then any or all bearings are shot..!!@!!! or pump regulator stuck open and is BAD !
test ,# 2
I get PSI near above, good ! even cranking for 5 full seconds wait 1min crank again, do not overheat any starter, ok?
test 2. pull valve cover, and crank until i see oil flow , if not?, then tell the builder no top end oil flow, he failed, (head 0.050" bottom left orifice clogged, or gasket wrong. If not top end flow the cam seizes driving around the block what a tragedy that.
Ok top end test passes ....
test 3: compression test on the pallet , spark plugs out, throttle blocked open or TB missing.
passes say 180PSI , sealevel , tell me altitude I tell you this number.
now install the engine, i just saved you 10+ hour or more hard labor by doing the job right first. above.
a top builder has build sheet attached to the engine
at the end are test 1,2,3 above with data.
and test 4 on super pro builder with long warranty (top clue there), the dyno test, or engine run in test stand test. amazing no, they test it before shipping it.
end facts on engine builds.
http://www.fixkick.com