Ecu pull

[fixkick]

i forget are you trying to do , to mix parts from 95 to 89....?? not good that, in most cases.
89 is gen1 car, 95 is gen 2. (8v)
why do you need ECU is your missing? I thought you had a 89 ecu?
yes a rebuilt dizzy is always a good idea on any old 89/90 the VR+ignitor insides loves to fail as does vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance jams.
89 has no ISC coolant lines, it has 2 wires to the ISC , and now water (water heated ISC started in year 91) the heat is actually TB heat, the ISC never uses the water heat at all.
http://fixkick.com/sensors/89/89-TB-exploded1.jpg
the IAC in the TB is water heated on all cars.
89 cars have many unique parts, per my 89 differences page.
manifold intake
TB is not same nor is it's injector the same. gen1 to gen2.
the GEn1 TB also has no idle air bleed screw and has difficult idle duty cycle setting rules, cured in 91 year.
ECU unique.(gen1 to gen2, and endless smog differences, but forget that if not smog tested)
harnesses not same!
water hoses not the same. the 89 gen1, even has odd heater for PCV as seen here :::::: http://fixkick.com/sensors/89/89-throttlebody.jpg
distributor radically different in 91 due to ECU now does all spark and all advance, totally all ECU done now starting in 1991.
ISC not the same.
IAC looks same but TB is not same, so.... TB wins. always. do not mix TB years. gen1 to gen2 or up.
heads are different, the gen1 runs old distributor and gear drive, not sure if cam is different, on gear but housing is different.


I’ll keep you posted how it runs when my parts come in. I’ve ordered an ECU, ISC, Dizzy, MAP sensor, and 10 foot of vacuum hose. If I need anymore please let me know lol.

One thing I’m concerned about is where do the coolant lines for the ISC come from? I’ll already be replacing all of the vacuum and small coolant lines so it shouldn’t be a huge deal to maybe throw a T fitting or route a new line should it?

I’ve looked the site over and can’t seem to find where they come from or where the fresh air line leads to. Air intake is super simple on all 8v, there is no MAF here.

I think this may be one of my problems I run into when I button the engine up.

On another note I have to tighten a few bolts up on the passenger front and re connect my suspension on the driver front, throw the wheels back on front side and the body mount rubber of course and the only thing left will be putting seats back in and fixing up the inside plastics.


By the way I’ve changed gear oil in the rear dif, going to change the front dif out, and ordered the specific part number GL4 synchromesh oil for tranny and tcase, so I shouldn’t have any problems out of those. I will have to send pics before and after when I’m done.
gl5 in axles only
if using wrong GL in gear box 5sp, it only shifts super hard. for sure down shifting, best is lube marked as syncromesh, and hard to find yes.