08-01-2018, 01:10 AM
ive no idea what fails. what AC issues are there, you skipped that , i think.
"AC system kicks on and runs great blowing cold air."
or is the only symptom , just a fan issue., nothing else???
no outdoor temps stated. (the world is huge pace, even canada, is N.America with 1000s of these cars, and even ALASKA, ive no clue where, not here in this text box.
in the manual , it has a parked in shop, performance test, with thermometer in the vent and all that.
then a chart.
and the charge shows. outdoor temp and humidity,
and vent outputs.
but all that is moot, what matters is the fan is on, now. all above moot.
oops this.
Red - 12v, Yellow - 12v, Blue/Red - 12v, Black/Blue - 0v.
red is good
yellow is good
blu/red = 12v fail relay work and sends power to fan but fan is dead, or wire to it bad or connector to it bad.
blk/blue = 0v good AMP tells relay turn on fan, good.
if that fails and the fan is dead, you now know why.
why not use the voltage meter on the relay, this simple tests puts you on path 1, fan bad, or AMP failed to turn it on?
or even relay bad, or fuse blown.
have meter? in your shoP> dmm?
it is just a relay,
a relay is current buffer, I could even replace it with a transistor.
the AMP is digital it sends weak signals(.3amps?) (0v) to the relay, the relay energizes (it does) and sends 15amps of power to the fan, 220 watts max in fact.
as you can see that might relay increased power by 50 fold. otherwise the fan would blow the amp to smithereens.
so the real problem was, weak AC parked, only.
ok.
"AC system kicks on and runs great blowing cold air."
or is the only symptom , just a fan issue., nothing else???
no outdoor temps stated. (the world is huge pace, even canada, is N.America with 1000s of these cars, and even ALASKA, ive no clue where, not here in this text box.
in the manual , it has a parked in shop, performance test, with thermometer in the vent and all that.
then a chart.
and the charge shows. outdoor temp and humidity,
and vent outputs.
but all that is moot, what matters is the fan is on, now. all above moot.
oops this.
Red - 12v, Yellow - 12v, Blue/Red - 12v, Black/Blue - 0v.
red is good
yellow is good
blu/red = 12v fail relay work and sends power to fan but fan is dead, or wire to it bad or connector to it bad.
blk/blue = 0v good AMP tells relay turn on fan, good.
if that fails and the fan is dead, you now know why.
why not use the voltage meter on the relay, this simple tests puts you on path 1, fan bad, or AMP failed to turn it on?
or even relay bad, or fuse blown.
have meter? in your shoP> dmm?
it is just a relay,
a relay is current buffer, I could even replace it with a transistor.
the AMP is digital it sends weak signals(.3amps?) (0v) to the relay, the relay energizes (it does) and sends 15amps of power to the fan, 220 watts max in fact.
as you can see that might relay increased power by 50 fold. otherwise the fan would blow the amp to smithereens.
so the real problem was, weak AC parked, only.
ok.
http://www.fixkick.com