06-13-2018, 12:19 AM
same to you sir !
Noises are the most hard of all things to diagnose.
At least you know what end makes noise,
testing for noise is super dangerous,(on the fly tests, we use a wired or wireless stethoscope, making this safe.)
what car is this, is it 4wd seems yes, you said front axle, G16 engine 4wd, and 2doors? 3sp or 4speed trans? auto.
I have a noise page? see that? type noise in the fixkick.com search box.
the first rule is not assume its X,y or Z.
The first test is visual.look for damage or extreme rust damage. on moving suspension parts.
These cars are old now (up to 29 years old in fact), all have problems every one, if you look deep enough.
We dont even see these cars at all now , down south,
1: visual
2: feel tests. this means using a prybar, flex parts that most not move in odd ways, all mounts are test this way, flex and look,.
3: remove the locking front axle hubs. does the noise end? now? this is a huge clue.
4: the CVs dont last this long. never seen one last if the car us used in 4wd much, but some are never used in 4wd so... matters this.
5: wheel bearings are .002" play is normal at the bearing, point. if more the bearings are bad. end search.
6: struts bad. not easy to test. most only make noise with extreme flexing , not possible by hand. or the lower ball is bad, this test is easy.
youtube how to test ball joints by flexing them.
7: the other joints and mounts you stated, can fail, and some 4wd offroad shops sold upgrade kits for them called Poly kits. but many stores now like this go
what is a suzuki, but my guess is not all . (suzuki in usa is like Yugo,Daewoo,volvo?, Isuzu, etc, not sold now here) making parts hard to find now.
8: Suzuki does have parts sales still, but are expensive and many are listed as Discontinued. (after market parts , some are plenty, shocks, struts, brakes etc.
9: brakes ever see front caliper guide pins seize? and the noises from that are ugly and even tire to ground locks ups possible. (cracked rotors?)
10 : U-joint's. if the front hub test end noises #3 above) then maybe the front drive prop shaft xfr case to axle pig is bad.
All mounts, the rubber inside is bonded to a steel hub. (we flex them to see if the bond is broken, flexing is normal but not if you see the bond is lost
or the rubber is breaking up inside (visual + flexed a hand lever ) a lever can be a crow bar or a wood dowel. that is strong.
Id be all over #3 and wheel bearings bad. or CV
please note I assume all 4wd locking hubs are now stuck and rusty, and looked up, so removing the whole hub at the outer screws
is the only sure way to test this idea. most autolocks are long long ago seized, they are near impossible to repair unlike manuals.
the ball joint test takes jacking up the bottom of the strut , with jack, and tire/wheel off.
then jack it up and down see if the ball joint play is out of spec, the FSM shows the limits here. (factory service manual the 96 book is same for all years)
the same trick near, works on wheel bearings
tire still; on
tire 1inch off ground pry bar under tire and garage floor, and then lever it, up and down see play? is wrong.
jerking tire leaf and right finds same errors in bearing that and all tie rods. they fail too. and make noise only when they want too, complex this is.
take car to a real suspension shop and 1hr later or less, bingo why,
the find this easy and fast. and far safer..
the only hard part of any suzuki is parts.
(not rubber/glass,belts/hoses,tuneup parts , not wipers/glass/ shocks, lamps,brakes and the like) the other parts that only fit suzuki and only they sold.
hard. (like finding wheel bearing hubs, oops or engine or trans parts, oops... mounts to are hard.)
http://www.fixkick.com/NOISE.html
Noises are the most hard of all things to diagnose.
At least you know what end makes noise,
testing for noise is super dangerous,(on the fly tests, we use a wired or wireless stethoscope, making this safe.)
what car is this, is it 4wd seems yes, you said front axle, G16 engine 4wd, and 2doors? 3sp or 4speed trans? auto.
I have a noise page? see that? type noise in the fixkick.com search box.
the first rule is not assume its X,y or Z.
The first test is visual.look for damage or extreme rust damage. on moving suspension parts.
These cars are old now (up to 29 years old in fact), all have problems every one, if you look deep enough.
We dont even see these cars at all now , down south,
1: visual
2: feel tests. this means using a prybar, flex parts that most not move in odd ways, all mounts are test this way, flex and look,.
3: remove the locking front axle hubs. does the noise end? now? this is a huge clue.
4: the CVs dont last this long. never seen one last if the car us used in 4wd much, but some are never used in 4wd so... matters this.
5: wheel bearings are .002" play is normal at the bearing, point. if more the bearings are bad. end search.
6: struts bad. not easy to test. most only make noise with extreme flexing , not possible by hand. or the lower ball is bad, this test is easy.
youtube how to test ball joints by flexing them.
7: the other joints and mounts you stated, can fail, and some 4wd offroad shops sold upgrade kits for them called Poly kits. but many stores now like this go
what is a suzuki, but my guess is not all . (suzuki in usa is like Yugo,Daewoo,volvo?, Isuzu, etc, not sold now here) making parts hard to find now.
8: Suzuki does have parts sales still, but are expensive and many are listed as Discontinued. (after market parts , some are plenty, shocks, struts, brakes etc.
9: brakes ever see front caliper guide pins seize? and the noises from that are ugly and even tire to ground locks ups possible. (cracked rotors?)
10 : U-joint's. if the front hub test end noises #3 above) then maybe the front drive prop shaft xfr case to axle pig is bad.
All mounts, the rubber inside is bonded to a steel hub. (we flex them to see if the bond is broken, flexing is normal but not if you see the bond is lost
or the rubber is breaking up inside (visual + flexed a hand lever ) a lever can be a crow bar or a wood dowel. that is strong.
Id be all over #3 and wheel bearings bad. or CV
please note I assume all 4wd locking hubs are now stuck and rusty, and looked up, so removing the whole hub at the outer screws
is the only sure way to test this idea. most autolocks are long long ago seized, they are near impossible to repair unlike manuals.
the ball joint test takes jacking up the bottom of the strut , with jack, and tire/wheel off.
then jack it up and down see if the ball joint play is out of spec, the FSM shows the limits here. (factory service manual the 96 book is same for all years)
the same trick near, works on wheel bearings
tire still; on
tire 1inch off ground pry bar under tire and garage floor, and then lever it, up and down see play? is wrong.
jerking tire leaf and right finds same errors in bearing that and all tie rods. they fail too. and make noise only when they want too, complex this is.
take car to a real suspension shop and 1hr later or less, bingo why,
the find this easy and fast. and far safer..
the only hard part of any suzuki is parts.
(not rubber/glass,belts/hoses,tuneup parts , not wipers/glass/ shocks, lamps,brakes and the like) the other parts that only fit suzuki and only they sold.
hard. (like finding wheel bearing hubs, oops or engine or trans parts, oops... mounts to are hard.)
http://www.fixkick.com/NOISE.html
(06-12-2018, 11:38 PM)CSUSBgeochem1 Wrote: Hey kick!! Hope everything has been well with you.
Our sidekick is running very well since the new head install.
We drove it to Oregon and back no problem.
One issue that has been going all along but i waited to take care of it was a clunk when coming to a stop.
Its something moving in the front axle or front portion of the vehicle, because when you slow down slowly and come to a stop you can prevent it.
sudden stops create the clunk.
Im thinking one of the mounts is bad.
The sidekick has a lift with differential drop brackets.
there are two.
one on either side of the front diff.
Do i have to replace the entire bracket or can the rubber portion be pressed out and replaced?
I plan to replace both automatic transmission mounts as they are shot and the motor mounts will be replaced as well.
There is a mount on the cross member right near the oil pan i cant identify. (that is easy , diff mounts, not just 1)
http://www.fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html
what would be the name of that mount??
What do you think of the issue? Thanks for your help!
http://www.fixkick.com