Hi All again , 9/13/17
Came home yesterday –car was fine- went to start it today (1998 4Dr- 4WD Chevy tracker)- ran for a few seconds and died. Then I was going to start it again and didn’t hear the usual fuel pump noise. I stopped and went to fixkick pages.(of course) – this what I did so far- Checked fuses under dash and engine compartment- were OK- then went to back to LR taillight- with voltmeter- set on 20v- wires are all clean no corrosion- unraveled gray tape covering connectors- with key on – back tested the Pink wire with black grd and then with body ground.- nothing both times- 0 volts – shouldn/t there be power there all the time? Or only by the time I got to do test it cut off. Or is that what the relay does-give the 3 seconds of power? Whatever- I guess next is to take out the glove box and ck relays under there? How do I test relays and are they interchangeable to test fuel pump.. Lights on the dash came on normally. If there is something else to do , I’m sure you all will advise me.
Thx -- 98TrackerMan
what's up doc?
welcome.
oops the fuel pump relay is not energizing
does the CEL lamp glow key on, it must. or ECU has no power. no power no pump.
no its only there cranking and only for 3 second key on, its 2 man test, never 1. or jumpe wires to pink wire to cab. and 1 man test.
this is a no crash and burn features, on all cars,
normally turn on key, to on hear pump run for 3 seconds and it quits, 91 to today. (odd expections on j18, engine , not upgraded )
if the pink wire never goes hot during key one or cranked the relay is next
but for sure CEL lamp
if the fues blew (there are 3 ECU fuse)
if they blow the pump goes dead,(not dome fuse )
dome fuse blown causes ECU to forget,
FI fuse kills pump
IG-CoIL calls ECU and PUMP.
yes that bank of relay can interchange ,see same pn. yes.
most are.
now some odd things,
the key one 3 second rule is al rule.
but the cranking , , if you crank the engine , the ECU may cut the fuel pump if any CODE p03xx happens for sure CMP dies.
it dont want you to fill the engine full of raw fuel and hydra lock the cambers and bend the rods (over 55 cc of fuel will do that, combustion chamber size, .
since your pump fails at key on, 3 second its not the CMP error.
CEL lamps (you said lamps on but that CEL is what matters no other lamps)
the check engine light or Service engine soon, SES lamp . must glow and is always first check then FI.
Hi- Yes the CEL comes on as usual. .meanwhile I since I posted- took out the glove box and took some pics- too big to post- gotta wait a while now -just started to rain- I'll be perusing my homework you sent- Thx -98TrackeMan
(09-14-2017, 05:33 AM)fixkick Wrote: what's up doc?
welcome.
oops the fuel pump relay is not energizing
does the CEL lamp glow key on, it must. or ECU has no power. no power no pump.
no its only there cranking and only for 3 second key on, its 2 man test, never 1. or jumpe wires to pink wire to cab. and 1 man test.
this is a no crash and burn features, on all cars,
normally turn on key, to on hear pump run for 3 seconds and it quits, 91 to today. (odd expections on j18, engine , not upgraded )
if the pink wire never goes hot during key one or cranked the relay is next
but for sure CEL lamp
if the fues blew (there are 3 ECU fuse)
if they blow the pump goes dead,(not dome fuse )
dome fuse blown causes ECU to forget,
FI fuse kills pump
IG-CoIL calls ECU and PUMP.
yes that bank of relay can interchange ,see same pn. yes.
most are.
now some odd things,
the key one 3 second rule is al rule.
but the cranking , , if you crank the engine , the ECU may cut the fuel pump if any CODE p03xx happens for sure CMP dies.
it dont want you to fill the engine full of raw fuel and hydra lock the cambers and bend the rods (over 55 cc of fuel will do that, combustion chamber size, .
since your pump fails at key on, 3 second its not the CMP error.
CEL lamps (you said lamps on but that CEL is what matters no other lamps)
the check engine light or Service engine soon, SES lamp . must glow and is always first check then FI.
the 3 second rule and the end of it rule.
the 3 second is to prime the pump , cutting cranking time way shorter and longer battery life. (and more happy driver)
the cut after 3s is to kill the pump say after a crash and someone keys it back on , limiting the fire or preventing it. (or or other things done very wrong, like key on and filter removed (OMG)
the cut fuel engine running, cut pump and cuts injectors when spark ends (CMP or spark read back) is to prevent crash and instant burn.
all cars do this but the 89/90 kick/tracker G16 acts strange, ill skip it, here.
(09-14-2017, 06:10 AM)fixkick Wrote: the 3 second rule and the end of it rule.
the 3 second is to prime the pump , cutting cranking time way shorter and longer battery life. (and more happy driver)
the cut after 3s is to kill the pump say after a crash and someone keys it back on , limiting the fire or preventing it. (or or other things done very wrong, like key on and filter removed (OMG)
the cut fuel engine running, cut pump and cuts injectors when spark ends (CMP or spark read back) is to prevent crash and instant burn.
all cars do this but the 89/90 kick/tracker G16 acts strange, ill skip it, here.
Today-9-14-17
in betwn drops did at the LR light did the "2 man test" (2times) + on pink - on blk, got the reading of about 12.12v.i guess next is to get some leads and troubleshoot continuity from LR along to the pump? Probably at some point i''l have to empty & drop tank. i have one of those Hydraulic tables to lower the tank on. Have to review pages on Depressurizing too-then take a look see- and to loosen them rusty tank bolts too.Ugh! I'm ready for another homework assignment. I can take my time- i got another set of wheels-ha
Ok later >>>98TrackerMan
Howdy again as progress continues..9/17/17- no rain
.....LR wires to mid bumper connector. are OK with continuity test-...........
.. re: the connectors in mid bumper-( one set pink & blk to pump and others to gauge )--Ok wires that go to pump- mine seems to be a black wire and a red wire with a pink connector - didn't do a hot wire test to pump yet - PREPARING-->>spraying all Dem tank hex head Bolts with rust buster!- let soak in- What a job getting all those Philip head bolts out Whew-bumper cover--- like U told me awhile ago- this ain't your old Buick! Coffee Break for retirees-
more soon Any more tips-so far so good- have UR pages to refer to--
Regards, 98TrackeMan
9/18/17---Nope I never saw this--What a godsend. Thx much-.Got plenty of rust buster & patience-I'm going to try to peek as I seen someplace U said maybe able in tilting tank to view pump wires-maybe a corroded or squirrel chewed wire- We'll see.... checking Chapter 6C out now with some hot Java-
>>>>>>>>> regards 98TrackerMan
Hi all again, 10-2-17- This is the hold up--the fitting coming from the old fuel pump to the filter. I was trying to get this off peacefully, but it seems it's a no go.Wire brushed it ever day and rust buster- last try was even a mixture of tranny fluid & acetone soaking every day for 2 days. does not budge at all. ( Fitting is cleaner now than this picture was taken) The idea I have is leaving old fitting alone and cutting off close to old pump, put on a new fitting and flare the end. ( then i have to go buy this flare jig & or a compression repair kit to do it?) I would rather just get another fuel hose...but... - I searched online-> N/G - Could not find this part, the name , the number- unknown to me-so I have no part - What I thought would give me a problem removing parts, didn't and this fitting did.-Murphy's Law I guess-- Any suggestions how to proceed? Any solutions or substitutions? I'm sure it happened to somebody out there too.
Thx- 98TrackerMan
To save the parts for re use I think you would need to at least partially drop the tank to remove the fuel pump. Remove all fuel and then use torch
to expand the fitting. You can try, but old tubes can crack when you try to re flare them so have another plan ready after the original is destroyed.
Another way is to destroy the female pump fitting and braze a new piece of tubing on to the pump outlet tube. bend and flare to O.E. shape with new female fitting. Another way is to get a new fuel pump and fabricate a fuel supply around an available fuel supply flex tube (one that was made for a different application).
Thx -98TrackeMan
.........
This is the hold up--the fitting coming from the old fuel pump to the filter. I was trying to get this off peacefully, but it seems it's a no go.Wire brushed it ever day and rust buster- last try was even a mixture of tranny fluid & acetone soaking every day for 2 days. does not budge at all. ( Fitting is cleaner now than this picture was taken) The idea I have is leaving old fitting alone and cutting off close to old pump, put on a new fitting and flare the end. ( then i have to go buy this flare jig & or a compression repair kit to do it?) I would rather just get another fuel hose...but... - I searched online-> N/G - Could not find this part, the name , the number- unknown to me-so I have no part - What I thought would give me a problem removing parts, didn't and this fitting did.-Murphy's Law I guess-- Any suggestions how to proceed? Any solutions or substitutions? I'm sure it happened to somebody out there too.