Fuel pump access

[john110]

Before I rip up the original carpet to check (vehicle is 3 hours away from home), is there possibly a "hatch" in the rear deck to access the fuel pump in the tank? I expect there isn't. Does anyone know the exact position of the fuel pump on the top of the tank? I would then cut a hole - very carefully - and make a hatch.

I know manufacturers want the cabin to be fully sealed so they often do not provide a hatch, but it makes life much more pleasant than pulling the tank.

Thank you, Pavel

I've got a 94 sidekick 2 doors 4wd manual, 1,6 8v..... I will have to do a hatchin the r4st deck as the last owner welded to piece of metal below the tank to get a tough trailer attach and to protect thefuel tank....... since few days I've got a fuel issue it want to start by dies after 1-2 sec.....my bet is that the fuel filter on the fuel line is dirty or the filter in the tank(on the sander) is dirty....

I disconnected the fuel line just before the tbi and turn the key to see if fuel was coming but just little fuel came out..... after that the sidekick ran for about fifteen minutes while turning the truck on and off.... now it does it again.....

So I'll read what kicfick is suggesting to you as I migh have a similar problem..... As I cant lower the fuel tank, I might have to make a hatch to have access to my fuel pump...

[john110]

Before I rip up the original carpet to check (vehicle is 3 hours away from home), is there possibly a "hatch" in the rear deck to access the fuel pump in the tank? I expect there isn't. Does anyone know the exact position of the fuel pump on the top of the tank? I would then cut a hole - very carefully - and make a hatch.

I know manufacturers want the cabin to be fully sealed so they often do not provide a hatch, but it makes life much more pleasant than pulling the tank.

Thank you, Pavel

I've got a 94 sidekick 2 doors 4wd manual, 1,6 8v..... I will have to do a hatchin the r4st deck as the last owner welded to piece of metal below the tank to get a tough trailer attach and to protect thefuel tank....... since few days I've got a fuel issue it want to start by dies after 1-2 sec.....my bet is that the fuel filter on the fuel line is dirty or the filter in the tank(on the sander) is dirty....

I disconnected the fuel line just before the tbi and turn the key to see if fuel was coming but just little fuel came out..... after that the sidekick ran for about fifteen minutes while turning the truck on and off.... now it does it again.....

So I'll read what kicfick is suggesting to you as I migh have a similar problem..... As I cant lower the fuel tank, I might have to make a hatch to have access to my fuel pump...

Fixkick, I got a question that could be (I think) useful for others... if you disconnect the fuel line just before the tbi and turn the key on (and redirect the fuel with another hose in a bucket or whatever !!), does the fuel pump should keep pumping the fuel as the pressure cant be reached ?!!

I empty my tank this wy few years ago. this would mean that the regulator isn't the problem. am I right ?

[fetcher]

If you wish to make an access hatch, Pavel14 is your go to guy. From what I have seen, his work is top notch.
But, I don't think that you have conclusively established that there is nothing wrong with the fuel pressure
regulator since the fuel will flow towards the path of least resistance. To address the poor fuel flow you have
described, I would first change out the filter since it's much easier to do than pulling the pump, especially so
in your case. You can get a no name one for about $10.00, although it will likely be Chinese. I myself installed
the $10.00 one. When it received it, I found that it came with steel banjo washers. Since I could not get a seal with
the steel banjo washers, I re used the old brass ones.

[john110]

If you wish to make an access hatch, Pavel14 is your go to guy. From what I have seen, his work is top notch.
But, I don't think that you have conclusively established that there is nothing wrong with the fuel pressure
regulator since the fuel will flow towards the path of least resistance. To address the poor fuel flow you have
described, I would first change out the filter since it's much easier to do than pulling the pump, especially so
in your case. You can get a no name one for about $10.00, although it will likely be Chinese. I myself installed
the $10.00 one. When it received it, I found that it came with steel banjo washers. Since I could not get a seal with
the steel banjo washers, I re used the old brass ones.

thanks a lot Fetcher..... yes I'll begin with the fuel filter..... I was looking at it this pm.... it's way less rusted than on my Tracker...... so I'll prob be able to unscrew it !!

[fetcher]

That is surely the case with older cars. It's easy to say "remove fastening bolt and then...". But this is not always
easy to do without breaking the said fastening bolt.

[john110]

That is surely the case with older cars. It's easy to say "remove fastening bolt and then...". But this is not always
easy to do without breaking the said fastening bolt.

Indeed Fetcher, on my Tracker, I wouldn't be able to remove those fastening bolts without breaking it, too rusted. I'll know it soon on my Sidekick , I should get my new fuel filter this week so I'll then replace it...

[fetcher]

If the filter does not immediately solve your problem, then at least you will be able to
make meaningful pressure tests of your fuel system.

[fetcher]

Indeed Fetcher, on my Tracker, I wouldn't be able to remove those fastening bolts without breaking it, too rusted. I'll know it soon on my Sidekick , I should get my new fuel filter this week so I'll then replace it...

Then a fun job awaits you. If possible, I would try to separate the filter from the car with any stubborn hoses still attached.
Then I would attempt to remove all the fuel that remains in the filter and hoses. Then I would hack that filter up with a cut off
wheel on an angle grinder. I guess a saw would work too. The goal would be to cut away enough so that you have access to the bung
the bolt is frozen in. I would then cut a notch, or notches in the bung with a small cut off wheel on a Dremel just short of the bolt threads.
Then I would hit the notch with a chisel. The bolt should be freed. If both hoses can't be removed without braking anything,
this whole deal might have to be done under the car.

[fixkick]

redux my showing a rust free car is not applicable at all
your car is rust pit.

as they say, a HORSE OF A DIFFERENT COLOR !

[fetcher]

I never suggested using high speed tools on a fuel wet filter

Maybe the guy can't get to Walmart. Maybe he first needs a fuel filter in order to get to Walmart

Maybe if he waits a week, he does not need to go anywhere and the filter appears on his doorstep
for less than he would pay at Walmart.

Since I did not think Suzuki was the ultimate God of metal fabrication, I made my own clamp that holds the filter to the car.
I thought I did a good job. If that's bad to do and the proper one is unavailable, then maybe I should junk the car?